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  • #31
    You'll get additional inches from your floor and the insulation under it. We did four courses of block, 4" of hearth, 5" of insulation and 2.5" of floor brick. I'm just under 6' and my Wife is 5'2" and our height is a great compromise.
    My build thread
    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

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    • #32
      JR thank you

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      • #33
        So this is today work. Not bad for a gal
        Attached Files

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        • #34
          Hi all
          hope you all safe. Oven building in progress but slower than expected.weather and going back to work in person delayed the build . I want ask if too much insulation is bad . And can I start the first row of the dome on the outside of the insulation or it have to be on top. Planning to use my oven for everything from pizza , bread roast. This is a 46 “ oven . How big the door ??

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          • #35
            Every bit of masonry that you heat and want to stay hot must either sit on insulation or be covered by it. Your dome bricks really have to sit on insulation or sit on top of the floor bricks that sit on insulation, or they will bleed heat into the hearth. There is a point of diminishing returns with regard to insulation thickness but I don't remember all the numbers right now. Do a quick search and you should be able to find lots of discussion on it.
            Last edited by JRPizza; 06-14-2021, 10:19 PM.
            My build thread
            https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

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            • #36
              Hi didn’t cut yet , so how the floor looks . And can I have pro and con of building around. I will have my oven insulated with blanket and than a layer of refractory insulation

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              • #37
                Consider having your floor laid on the diagonal. That way, if you have any small ridges, you won't struggle getting your peel under the pizza.
                My 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
                My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Dal View Post
                  Hi didn’t cut yet , so how the floor looks . And can I have pro and con of building around. I will have my oven insulated with blanket and than a layer of refractory insulation
                  The oven can be built around the floor or on top of it. If built around the floor the cuts around the perimeter need to be pretty precise, with a gap of around 6mm between the floor bricks and the dome. Alternatively the dome can be built on top of the floor and the bricks that protrude outside the base of the dome can be cut off really roughly as they'll be covered with insulation. The downside of this method is that you won't be able to replace a floor brick that's sitting under the dome. This is far less of a problem than you may think because any floor bricks that crack or spall will be those in the centre of the floor. Far less labour and fiddling around, to build the dome on top of the floor. Not a bad idea to get around half dozen floor bricks as spares now, because they may not be available in ten years time.
                  Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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                  • #39
                    Plus one on both Mark's and David's comments.
                    Russell
                    Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by david s View Post

                      The oven can be built around the floor or on top of it. If built around the floor the cuts around the perimeter need to be pretty precise, with a gap of around 6mm between the floor bricks and the dome. Alternatively the dome can be built on top of the floor and the bricks that protrude outside the base of the dome can be cut off really roughly as they'll be covered with insulation. The downside of this method is that you won't be able to replace a floor brick that's sitting under the dome. This is far less of a problem than you may think because any floor bricks that crack or spall will be those in the centre of the floor. Far less labour and fiddling around, to build the dome on top of the floor. Not a bad idea to get around half dozen floor bricks as spares now, because they may not be available in ten years time.
                      Thank you , i will build on the top . As you can see I try to be as neat as possible while cutting insulation it it was really challenging working by myself. But it will be covered so I am not going to stress about it. I was reading one of you posts about having drainage under the insulation. Is this crucial? If so I will have to do that now before starting the dome. Things are still movable.
                      another question about the form for arch’s . You had 2. How wide/ thickness of the first arch and the second one/ outer arch.

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                      • #41
                        I’m not sure of your weather conditions, but heat rises by convection and water falls by gravity, so the accumulation of moisture is more concentrated under the floor and that is the hardest place for heat to get to in order to chase the moisture out. Some drain holes near the centre of the floor, that go right through the supporting slab, do a good job of providing an escape route for moisture. They are probably best cast into the slab when it’s poured, but can be drilled after the slab has cured. Or, drilled up from the bottom after the floor has been laid, or even when the oven has been completed.
                        Not quite sure what you mean about the thickness of the first and second arches. I cast the flue gallery in castable refractory and its thickness varies from around 12mm to 25mm excluding external buttresses of an additional 25mm. This allows me to keep the thermal mass quite low to reduce the heat sink effect of drawing heat from the dome. In front of the flue gallery I have a cast decorative arch that is 70mm thick and separated from the flue gallery by an 8 mm insulating/thermal expansion gap. If you are planning building the gallery in brick there are plenty of builds here to guide you.
                        Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by david s View Post
                          I’m not sure of your weather conditions, but heat rises by convection and water falls by gravity, so the accumulation of moisture is more concentrated under the floor and that is the hardest place for heat to get to in order to chase the moisture out. Some drain holes near the centre of the floor, that go right through the supporting slab, do a good job of providing an escape route for moisture. They are probably best cast into the slab when it’s poured, but can be drilled after the slab has cured. Or, drilled up from the bottom after the floor has been laid, or even when the oven has been completed.
                          Not quite sure what you mean about the thickness of the first and second arches. I cast the flue gallery in castable refractory and its thickness varies from around 12mm to 25mm excluding external buttresses of an additional 25mm. This allows me to keep the thermal mass quite low to reduce the heat sink effect of drawing heat from the dome. In front of the flue gallery I have a cast decorative arch that is 70mm thick and separated from the flue gallery by an 8 mm insulating/thermal expansion gap. If you are planning building the gallery in brick there are plenty of builds here to guide you.
                          Thank you , today I followed a drawing of the herringbone pattern for floor definitely better when tested wi the peel . The question was about the forms you used for the arches . My oven will be 46” . So trying to build the first form and second for the arch .
                          I have posted pictures of doors I have and I am leaning towards using the salvaged wood stove door. Cast iron frame and door insulated with a vent and glass window.

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                          • #43
                            One piece of advice if/when you get a woodstove door for your oven. You want to try and keep the door height/dome height ratio to the 63% if you can. Buying an existing door kind of determines the height of your opening. I find lots of them just don't work in that regard. Choose wisely. Assuming your interior dome height will be 23" (?) that would mean, to follow the ratio, your door should be somewhere around 14 1/2". Just something to ponder.
                            My Build:
                            http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/s...ina-20363.html

                            "Believe that you can and you're halfway there".

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                            • #44
                              You might also want to think about how the open door might interfere with working the oven while cooking. A removable door is totally out of the way and allows you to slide in a full width pan and work both sides of the oven while cooking. Never used a built in door but you might want to make sure you can get in all the pots, pans, and peels you want to use.
                              My build thread
                              https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

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