Show us your Door Thread

[Sixto]

That sounds great for the Stainless or Aluminum, Thanks Mark! Any suggestions about the insulation material if I can't get calcium silicate???

[MarkJerling]

Id love to get recommendations from the experienced builders regarding door insulation, I'm having a hard time sourcing cal-sil board, so I'm considering 10:1 perlcrete or rockwool board (called ProRox 960 which indicates an R-5 per inch?) whichever I go with would be fully encapsulated in stainess steel. I guess I'm trying to see which one would do a better job of insulating per inch of thickness...

I will probably end up with 2 doors, the insulated door to keep residual heat for as long as I can, and a plain SS plate door to control air/smoke and minimize rain infiltration.

A question about Stainless, i've read that it warps, is there a minimum gauge I should use for the inside face on the insulated door... what about if it's a plain non-insulated metal plate?

Thanks to all for a helpful thread!

See my post #141 above. I used either 0.9mm or 1.2mm thick stainless steel, I can't remember which. Following below my post, a few posts down, is a similar design to mine, but made nicer than mine! While the stainless steel sheet facing the oven warps slightly when the oven is hot, it soon returns to flat as the oven cools.

I now also have a thin aluminium "outer" door which I use to keep the weather out.

[Sixto]

Id love to get recommendations from the experienced builders regarding door insulation, I'm having a hard time sourcing cal-sil board, so I'm considering 10:1 perlcrete or rockwool board (called ProRox 960 which indicates an R-5 per inch?) whichever I go with would be fully encapsulated in stainess steel. I guess I'm trying to see which one would do a better job of insulating per inch of thickness...

I will probably end up with 2 doors, the insulated door to keep residual heat for as long as I can, and a plain SS plate door to control air/smoke and minimize rain infiltration.

A question about Stainless, i've read that it warps, is there a minimum gauge I should use for the inside face on the insulated door... what about if it's a plain non-insulated metal plate?

Thanks to all for a helpful thread!

[Dino_Pizza]

Thanks UtahB,
and the final door did not have all 8 of those SS u-brackets as on my test door out of cardboard, just 6 you see holding in the insurance in one pick. That six made it sturdy enough.

[UtahBeehiver]

That's a good way for non welders to build an insulated door. Thanks for sharing on the blog.

[david s]

Hi David, nice to chat with you again.
The door is 12.5 pounds (5.7kg).

DAY1 …..After a pizza fire, it was well saturated at 650°F when the door went on.
DAY 2 ….12 hours later it was 470°
DAY 3……24 hours later it was 250°
(I did cooke a brisket later on day 2 and it was still 400°F)

The put the IR thermometer gun on the face of the door each day and it was 150° on DAY 1&2 and 125° on DAY 3.
My oven arch walls were also 150° the 1st day, same as the metal door.

This was my one and only use of the door. I’ll make notes again next time,it is summer and quite warm here.
Thanks, Dino,

That's pretty good 5.7kg is pretty manageable. Can you touch the bolts that run right through the door on the outside? I assume not as the temps you recorded suggest.

[Dino_Pizza]

Hi David, nice to chat with you again.
The door is 12.5 pounds (5.7kg).

DAY1 …..After a pizza fire, it was well saturated at 650°F when the door went on.
DAY 2 ….12 hours later it was 470°
DAY 3……24 hours later it was 250°
(I did cooke a brisket later on day 2 and it was still 400°F)

The put the IR thermometer gun on the face of the door each day and it was 150° on DAY 1&2 and 125° on DAY 3.
My oven arch walls were also 150° the 1st day, same as the metal door.

This was my one and only use of the door. I’ll make notes again next time,it is summer and quite warm here.
Thanks, Dino,

[david s]

Nice job. You may have gone a bit heavy with the brackets and bolts as they are highly conductive steel. The bigger and thicker they are the more heat they'll conduct from the inside to the outside. How heavy is the finished door? The only way to test it is to use it. Can you report on its performance for the benefit of members?

[Dino_Pizza]

Thanks Mark, I have to thank this community for all the inspiration over the years to figure out ways to do things that are new to us and so unique to a WFO build.
Cheers, Dino

[MarkJerling]

Looks good Dino! Like you, I can't weld, so I really like your solution.

[Dino_Pizza]

NO WELDING on my door. I can’t weld and the last thing I need is another tool I never use in my garage, so after 12 years, my “temporary” door made of left over oven cement and board and insulation broke open. And I wanted it to be all stainless or common steel and no aluminum or zinc coatings.

New Door Ingredients:
I bought a Common Steel at 20gauge thick sheet (I have to spray paint it with high heat bbq paint to prevent rust.)
20g common steel was easily cut by HF electric sheers (yay!, this was my 1st hurdle)
I used 6 u-brackets (stainless steel of course) for the frame, on the inside to bolt-sandwich the inner and slightly bigger outer door together.
I then cut one 2” steel strip for the bottom and sides… then a 24” piece for the curved top that needed a bend at each end so they can be bolted to the sides at a small overlap.
I applied a tube of high heat food safe silicon as a bead into the inside seams of the inner door and edge, then layer in 2 layers of good oven insulation then layer a piece of oven safe silicon ( blue mat from Amazon) cut to fit so there would be a minor bit of insulation between the 6 brackets and the outer door.
Bought those bbq handles on Amazon.
Put thru-bolds in from the outer door to sandwich it together, added more silicon sealant (very little at minor gaps), spray painted again and it’s done.
OH, I put 2” peel and stick Kevlar-nomax smoker felt along the bottom and the door goes in softly but tight.
There was some steel filing, and oven arch grinding that was unavoidable but it fits great now. The 20 gauge common steel finished door feels really solid, I’m glad I didn’t go thicker or thinner.
……….
last week made pizza, then put the door on at night at 650°., it was 475° next morning and 270° on third morning. The IF gun said door was. 150-125° for the first two days. I am HAPPY .

Other hurdles: finding SS brackets (these where for barn-door 2x4 barricade and where the most expensive parts), that I had to drill with hand drill, good bits, and drilling oil. Buying 2-3 $8 to $15 SS lock washer, screw and bolt packs, and I was so nervous about bending my 2” wide edge 90° for the bottom piece and a partial bend for the curved top, but simple mallet and vise bolted to short piece of wood on my patio table was all the work bench I needed and it turned out great.

The Dorothy’s Slipper magnet is temporary until we find something unique and larger and then glue a magnet on it, Perhaps a painted Italian tile or slice of polished stone. Last pic is Lamb Shank with fresh sauce from our garden tomatoes , and a grilled octopus with Mayer lemon, zucchini, and rosemary.

[Chach]

Very nice, Ricky!

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Ricky

[NCMan]

Never posted my door. I have a stainless door that is 4" thick which houses 4" of calsil board I had left over from the build. The stainless that surrounds the board is 16 gauge all welded and the face is made from 1/8" thick stainless to prevent warping. The stainless handles was formed from round stock and welded to the face only not through bolted. I was worried about the handles getting hot but they stay cool. I guess the calsil board is doing its job so no gloves are necessary to remove the door. I was thinking of doing wooden handles using stainless L brackets and oak dowles but I am very happy the way it turned out and it functions very well.


Ricky

Very nice, Ricky!

[Chach]

Never posted my door. I have a stainless door that is 4" thick which houses 4" of calsil board I had left over from the build. The stainless that surrounds the board is 16 gauge all welded and the face is made from 1/8" thick stainless to prevent warping. The stainless handles was formed from round stock and welded to the face only not through bolted. I was worried about the handles getting hot but they stay cool. I guess the calsil board is doing its job so no gloves are necessary to remove the door. I was thinking of doing wooden handles using stainless L brackets and oak dowles but I am very happy the way it turned out and it functions very well.


Ricky

[JRPizza]

Nice simple no weld door! If your board material under the bolt heads starts to deform you could always put a thin face sheet on the inside.