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Even though the thread is called "SuperIsol Installation" it's mostly about HF's wet saw. If you do a search for "Harbor Freight" or "Wet Saw" you will find other threads discussing it. Be sure to get the extended warranty.
I'm using one of the cheap tile saws from Lowe's. We've had it for years, and it has held up ok. It even has the original blade.(7")
The only problem is that it won't cut all the way through a brick. So I have to cut the top, both sides, then flip it over, and cut both sides again. Then I take the "cut" brick and either hit it with a hammer in the center, or hit it with another brick until it breaks in half. It does leave each piece with a rough side, but I don't point the rough side toward the center of the dome.
It works, but not greatly effective. I already had the saw, so I am making do.
Another vote for the HF 10 inch saw...have used it on harder than firebrick face brick and it cuts through them like a dream...using the HF 10 inch blade also
"Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. " Charles Mingus
"Build at least two brick ovens...one to make all the mistakes on and the other to be just like you dreamed of!" Dutch
The only problem is that it won't cut all the way through a brick. So I have to cut the top, both sides, then flip it over, and cut both sides again. Then I take the "cut" brick and either hit it with a hammer in the center, or hit it with another brick until it breaks in half.
> What is in the way? That saw should have a 2" cut depth.. why not just lay the brick flat, flip it once and cut the 1/2" out on the second pass?
HF 10 inch saw is still working well for me. One more project before Craigs List.
One thing I did was tweek the water pipes inside the guard so they direct water at the blade vs at the inside of the guard. I got through the oven and accent bricks and am still using the same HF smooth edge blade. I even used it to rip a few 10 ft pieces of Hardi Trim when I needed a narrower piece around the top of the oven.....
I started my oven with the same MK saw as Dave. He is correct, a standard firebrick will not pass through without hitting the arbor and guard.
Foolishly, knowing the amature was bad and the saw might die at any moment, I went to the trouble of spending an entire day making a different sliding table that gave me an extra 1/4" of clearance........the saw finally died after about 15 bricks.
Bought the 10" HF freight saw, it worked flawlessly. As I've stated before, I am not a Chinese tool proponent - most of it it junk, but this saw does an amazing job for $200. I wouldn't recommend it for professional use, but it is more than enough saw for building and oven.
Well that sucks. I feared you might think I was implying you are crazy but it was late last night and i couldn't figure out how else to word the question, sorry, thats not what I meant..
Since thats the case that blade might as well be a 4" instead of 7"...
Nice cabinets..I ALWAYS have trouble remembering which way to hold the molding in the saw, I call it "molding dyslexia"
Just a note on the HF saw. I got mine last weekend and finally put it together yesterday. I had to adjust the bar that the table rolls on as the saw blade did not even come close to being centered on the groove in the table.
Then I noticed that the outboard water jet actually rubbed against the blade. No matter how I tried, I couldn't tweak that thing to get it off the blade. I ended up taking off the blade guard and using a hose gasket before putting on the blade guard, which centered the blade better and freeing it from the water jets.
Everyone makes mistakes. The trick is to make mistakes when nobody is looking.