Oven floor brick cuts

[Michael Thomas]

Either work, but with backer board, you can incorporate in pour and leave. You do need to make sure you temp. support underneath.
I used 1/2" that overlap the wall but not covered up the cell completely so I could grout.

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So if I understand the hardibacker. Is the difference between plywood and backer that you don't need to have the hardibacker sheets a half inch below the level of the top layer of cement blocks? In other words, you can just span the width of the stand by supporting underneath? In this configuration I see that the backer is not counter sunk but sitting on top of the stand and extending over the inner edge of cement blocks by a few inches.

Mike

[JRPizza]

I also used the durock and just used some 2x4's as suport. I put them together with a kreg pocket hole jig. If you don't have one they are great. Then after it had cured for a few weeks I took it out with a hammer and pry bar. I was not worried about cracking the slab as it is about 6" thick. And the durock held the weight just fine.

Randy

Hey Randy, just curious - why did you use cement board if you were planning on removing it?

[JRPizza]

I used hardibacker, which has very straight/flat edges (not sure about durok). The first full sheet spanned my cinderblocks with about 2" overlap, which left the cores open for a good bond. I didn't do anything to seal the edges where the board touched the blocks. For the internal seams, I just butted them up tight like shown in the picture, then placed 2x4 supports underneath centered on and running along the seam. I braced along each 2x4 with a couple of uprights, then added another support in the center of the full board for "just in case. When I pulled the supports I had virtually no leakage along the seams and they appeared to be well bonded. In fact I had very little leakage along the outside edge even though I didn't even use tape or try to seal the edge, other than strapping the boards tight all the way around (as shown in my post above).

[joeykramer]

what did you durok guys use to seal the seams in between boards? i've mapped it out where i will use 3 full pieces. and when cut, there will be 4 sections that make up the floor.

[JRPizza]

One of the great things about the cement board is it does not have to be removed, and for my size hearth, the 5' length fit very well and really minimized the amount of cutting and supporting I had to do.

[RandyJ]

I also used the durock and just used some 2x4's as suport. I put them together with a kreg pocket hole jig. If you don't have one they are great. Then after it had cured for a few weeks I took it out with a hammer and pry bar. I was not worried about cracking the slab as it is about 6" thick. And the durock held the weight just fine.

Randy

[joeykramer]

thanks David, yes, i plan on removing the corner braces and using rebar and adding more support from the sides. with a 1 year old, time is limited, i framed it out two weeks ago and havent had a chance to pour it yet, so i put the corner braces on it just to make sure it stays put for the time in between.

[DavidApp]

Are you going to add rebar in your pour?
The corner braces you have may make it hard to float/smooth your pour. You might want to add braces from your sides to the ground. Wet concrete weighs a lot and you do not want to have your form blow out.
Good luck this weekend.

David

[joeykramer]

Here's a rough view of what I'm working with. Planning on pouring this weekend

[proc]

I did the same, hardi-backer on cinder block with an angle iron in notched cinder. Nice thing about the hardibacker is that you can leave it in place and let the concrete key into the cinder all the way around the backer.

You can see it here:

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=Byk5n8VR1hb

I did use shoring jacks under the backer board to make sure they did not sag. You can see them if you click around to the front of the base.

[JRPizza]

Do you have a picture or drawing to share?

[joeykramer]

im about to use Durok, for my hearth base and plan to support it using angle iron notched into the top layer of cinder blocks.

[JRPizza]

Mleuck, I also used backer board. I did it because it seemed to really simplify the framing process and eliminated the need for removal of the plywood after the hearth pour. I went with 1/2 inch board - I had a sheet of 1/4 but I convinced myself it was kind of thin and might have more of a chance to fail before the slab cured. Since the backer sits on top of the cinderblocks, I poured my hearth 4.5 inches from the edge so I would have a full 4 in the middle. Probably overkill but I did not want a 3.5 inch slab.

[DavidApp]

There are a lot of ways of getting the Oven floor bricks cut. They all work but some take a bit more time than others. I cut mine with a 10" Harbor Freight wet saw like Gulf suggested and it only took a few cuts per brick. The hand grinder will get it done but will take more time.

David

[valentin]

You don't need cut with such precision as the Gulf offers. Simply cut and after grind. Video of grinding

https://youtu.be/MOm7aqfpW4g