Starting new build in Dallas

[Dwatkins]

Hey Russell,
Yes the second row for about three bricks are not staggered and once I saw it made the adjustment. That is the only place that this happened so not too worried about it. When I could see the center brick being TDC it all started to come together. Hope to get close to closing it up this weekend.

[UtahBeehiver]

Yes, visualizing how a tapered inner arch configuration works in a brain teaser but once you understand, the light bulb goes on and ahhhh. This is one of the most difficult concepts to figure out so Iit looks like you have it dialed in. The top dead center of the arch will be the longest brick in the arch. You are getting to a point where setting a brick or two on the back center half on the next course at the end of the day will give you a solid anchor to work from for the next day.

[Dwatkins]

Working up to the arch using the claw, wedges, and the IT. Finally up to working in the dome wall and the inner arch. Getting this pictured in my mind took a little bit but once I could see it I was able to make some headway. Got all the pieces cut and spaced and then mixed some mud and started laying them. Mixed enough to lay about 3 or 4, didn't want to get too eager.

[UtahBeehiver]

Watch out for joints lining up, IE pic three right side. Stagger bond makes the oven stronger and less chance of solid vertical crack. This can be accomplished by adjusting the width of a few bricks. If you do the adjustments near the front half of the dome, they are not seen when the dome is complete.

[Dwatkins]

I cut 10 degree wedges to assist with the tilt and I show the full wedge but ended up cutting them in half. When I laid the first two it seemed there was not much mortar to bond so a wedge about an inch wide seemed plenty. Using the IT worked well and I took wet shop towels to wet the previous chain before laying the next. The "Dome Claw" worked very well also, much thanks to Steve Opseth. Started the forth chain and also part of the inner arch.

[Dwatkins]

Here is my IT, very basic but works well. Used a scrap piece of 2 x 4 fur and ripped it down to two pieces 1" x 1 1/2". Not thinking, I had 42" in my head and cut them to make a 42" IT which was an easy fix to cut off so they would make a 21" IT. Any way, picked up two 1/4" x 4" carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers and wing nuts, cut 5/16s slots for the adjustment, added a small hinge that I had laying around and bent a 90 in a scrap piece of thin metal plate. I also used a piece of 2 x 6 fur which I cut to 4 1/2 x 9 and then put spacers under it to raise it to floor height.

[Dwatkins]

I made a version of Steve Opseth's Dome Claw using a 1" metal strapping. It has a little more flex in it put did buy a stick of the 1" flat aluminum which will probably work better when I get to the more vertical bricks on the upper chains. These really work very well and I am using them along with the IT. I marked off the first inch, locked it in the vise and with a hammer beat a 90 in it. Marked off the 4 1/2" and beat a 90 and so on. Cut it off and bent the last 25 degree, approx.

[Dwatkins]

Thanks Russell.
Here is a better shot of the carpenter IT.
Storing the HS-50 in a sealable HD bucket, we have had a lot of rain in the last two months so this has worked well. Also started the first chain and working up to the inner arch. Started notching the halves for the remaining chains.

[UtahBeehiver]

So far everything looks good. The IT centerline is set correctly and pivot point at floor elevation. This is a good non-weld IT for any builders who do not have access to a welder, adjustable, centerline of IT at pivot point and pivot point at floor level. With 4" of CaSi board, the floor insulation is very good.

[Dwatkins]

Life really get in the way when you are trying to work on a project but some things in life are more important than a pizza oven. I have made some progress over the last 4 weeks though, and hope to have more time to work on it in the weeks ahead.
Dry fitted the soldier course and inner arch and added the 1/4" steel plate under the outer arch that will hold the face bricks. Inserted the wood brick and attached the IT. Cut several 10 degree wedges and mortared in the soldier course.

[Dwatkins]

Picked up 220 firebrick and two bags of Heatstop 50 at Metro Brick and stone here in Dallas. I also located the ceramic board at Bread Stone Ovens in Dallas as well. Two boards 2x3 by 2" for right at $110 for both and I used almost every piece of it for the floor. The ceramic board cuts easily with a bandsaw and after overlapping the joints I placed the floor. Working now on the opening and dry fitting before starting the mortar.

[Dwatkins]

Mike, thanks for the reply. I was pretty sure that should not but wanted verify. The floor bricks are actually pretty flat but will probably take a belt sander to them just to get them as close as possible, have read that others have done the same.

[SableSprings]

Good to have that knee surgery behind you! You don't want to mortar the base dome bricks to the cooking floor. The dome actually will expand/contract (as will the floor) during firing/cool down so there is a little movement between those two structures. Just set the bricks on or around the perimeter of the cooking floor bricks (either method is good, but with setting the dome on the ceramic board just outside the cooking floor, you leave a little expansion gap). Your layout looks good although I can't tell if some of your cooking floor bricks aren't quite level. If the floor is not pretty evenly flat, your peel will catch. If the bricks aren't quite level, lay a thin layer of fine sand+a little fireclay (dampened slightly) and use a notched trowel (like laying tile) to groove the surface. Then you can set and tap the cooking floor bricks into a basically smooth surface for your peel work.

Hope that helps a bit.

[Dwatkins]

After being sidetracked by Knee surgery and several other life events I am back to our build. Getting the basic layout and trying to get it pictured in my head but one question that I have not been able to find in the forum is concerning the first 1/2 brick soldier course, are they mortared to the oven floor?
Thanks for any reply.

[Dwatkins]

Made some progress on the pergola extension this past week. I secured the beams setting on top of the posts with 2x6s bolted through with all threads. The corner braces are 6x6 like the posts and once I put the other two in I will bolt them in as well which gives it a lot of stability. Will start the joists soon.