42 inch Pompeii Design Build

[JRPizza]

Here is what I did - hope this helps. I placed a brick on top of my door form and adjusted it fore aft to be in the right position. Then I put a dome brick in my IT and placed it next to the brick to "eyeball" the cut line. I could have cut the angle a little "flatter" so the brick would touch at the inside but have a gap at the OD to pack mortar in, but I hadn't figured all that out at the time. The line just below my brick represents the ID curve of the oven which I drew with a pen in my IT, and the line in the upper right was a mistake

[UtahBeehiver]

Back on post #17, the slope (green line) is the same angle as the centerline of the IT rod.

[antzvu]

Love the sketches - Sketchup or something else ?

Yes. I'm simply using the free version of Sketchup. I consider it pretty robust. The PRO version is nifty, but as the name suggests, if you're not a Pro, I don't see why you would need the Pro features that badly.

[terratree]

Love the sketches - Sketchup or something else ?

[JRPizza]

I designed my IT to be adjustable, thinking it might be handy to be able to change the length. When I cut my floor bricks I attached a marker holder and extended the IT about 4.5 inches to mark the outside diameter of the dome. Then when I attached my angle bracket I was able to adjust the length to get the ID of the dome in proper location. Because I was able to get my pivot and rotation point almost at floor level, I didn't need to do any adjustment during my build.

[UtahBeehiver]

First, center of IT needs to be at the center of thr brick, not lower or upper half Suggest an adjustable IT so you have flexibility to adjust. No need to taper bottom or top sides only vertical sides to prevent inverted v joints. Mortar is your friend. Nomenclature, you are actually using 1/2 headers, not soldiers.

[antzvu]

I've seen two styles of ITs.

One with a head that is adjustable (length) and one that is fixed.

I'm trying to build the second row of soldiers and there is a small gap because of the circular angle. I'm looking at other people's builds and no one seems to be tapering their first row of soldiers to match the circumference of the dome shape. The first row is only tapered to other adjacent brick in the row.

My initial solution would be to butt up the surfaces and simple use a fixed radius length and adjust for it. But I noticed the second row creates a huge angled gap. Does that mean the majority of folks are tapering 3-4 edges of the brick. I was under the impression that most people were tapering about 2 sides if at all.

[antzvu]

Thanks Russell. I'm DEFINITELY going to utilize IT to create the inner arch.

[UtahBeehiver]

Much better set up. Here is a pic from Mr. Chipster showing how a tapered inner arch like the one you want is defined using an IT.

[antzvu]

Thank you for all the advice! I changed the Fire Brick Floor to exclude the first row of soldiers and simply laid them on top of the floor. I also decided on the oven door look I wanted. While the arching half circle does look nice, I've fallen in love with the arch over the vertical door design. The door also includes the arching tapered bricks to be cut from full size.

[Chach]

New sketches look good! Don't know if the floor bricks represent actual layout, but if you shift them slightly forward towards the door you can eliminate the small pieces right at the entrance. This arrangement also places a brick close enough to the center to allow the use of a "wooden brick" to mount your IT. I also attached a link to my hearth build so you can see how I maximized the height of my wood storage opening. I'm glad there isn't a layer of brick or angle iron at the top of my opening - I have enough trouble not bumping my head with it as is.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...324#post380324

I agree I wish I would have not only had the extra head room but I wish the opening was wider. I wish I didn't return the front walls in and just left the opening as wide as possible...Im not getting any smaller in my older years lol.

[UtahBeehiver]

I do want to recommend that you consider a tapered inner arch. Takes a little more work on the front end but will save time and also allow for a smoother transition to tie in the dome to the arch. There are a lot of examples out there and worth the effort. But requires full bricks on the arch not half bricks like the current design shows.

[JRPizza]

New sketches look good! Don't know if the floor bricks represent actual layout, but if you shift them slightly forward towards the door you can eliminate the small pieces right at the entrance. This arrangement also places a brick close enough to the center to allow the use of a "wooden brick" to mount your IT. I also attached a link to my hearth build so you can see how I maximized the height of my wood storage opening. I'm glad there isn't a layer of brick or angle iron at the top of my opening - I have enough trouble not bumping my head with it as is.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...324#post380324

[antzvu]

Thank you everyone for wisdom. This project is quite the undertaking.

Ok. Looks like I've settled for 39" WFO. JRPizza, I felt like an idiot for not thinking of that sooner, especially since I tell people to split the difference all the time.

In terms of the base, I may design it after I get down the dome. I want to gauge how much play I have for the base. I may actually pour cement for the entire area just to establish a backyard kitchen.

[Chach]

For sure this is another way to go...I have seen them build bond beams on the ground 2 block high install rebar pour it with grout and have it cure for at least a week then lift it with a Lull and set it like a beam. The span was at least 8' - 10' pretty amazing. Not that what you drew is complicated or hard.it is a pretty detailed drawing but the angle iron is pretty idiot proof but I do like david s angle ironless way better it is a cleaner look especially if you choose not to face the bottom with a stone or brick. If your stucco the bottom I would really consider david s way for sure no doubt.