Well there ya go. Mine is this one:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f...t=180#p1268670
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Brick and clay pot hybrid
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Apologies for anyone interested in this build- the oven has been used several times with moderate success. Last weekend I finally put a scratch coat over the thing. Now time to finish...
I have discovered that I am slow with the stucco- so my questions-
Best material for top coat? I used “quikrete” for the base coat.
I think my pace will mean going one ‘section’ at a time- but complete the same day. Any issues with that? I want to ‘float’ the whole thing to make it smooth-ish.
i will try to add a pic
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The obligatory “first fire” pic.
Question- during this heating the outside of the pcrete was ambient temp- all but one spot at top center of the dome- next to the chimney- it felt warm/hot- is this where moisture found its way out? I’ll try a mirror on there tonight. Also I’ll get a pic of the completed dome.
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The addition of hydrated lime is beneficial in that it increases workability, elasticity and imparts some crack resistance with self healing properties. 4:1:1 is pretty good , but a proprietary render is probably a similar recipe with the addition of “polymer modified” goodies that impart some partial waterproofing qualities.
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Wanting to crack on indeed- I have been so slow with the application or pearlcrete and it’s plenty dry in Southern California so I expect it is getting close on the natural elimination of moisture- so maybe some small slow curing fires before ‘rendering’? And is Portland and sand a proper render?
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All good with the squirrel tail. Because vermicrete or perlcrete contains so much free water (around 1/3 of the volume is water and about 1/2 of that is taken up by the hydration process), leaving a large amount to eliminate, then it’s best to get rid of most of it before rendering over it. An excess of moisture can make the stuff swell and crack even to the extent of cracking the outer render over it. At this stage you are no doubt getting excited and want to crack on and get the thing operating. It is more prudent however to take your time and weather permitting, allow sun and wind do much of the drying. A week of drying is pretty good and a cheap garden moisture meter can also be of assistance.
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David- I defiantly will not ignore your words of wisdom. I did go squirrel tail. The pearlcrete does a good job of concealing the shape.
Quick question- after completing the pearlcrete insulation should I move to drying fires or stucco first? Also- can I place decorative tile “in” the stucco or do I need another layer of ¿mastic
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Originally posted by PsychDoc View PostOk, last post to bring us up to current. For a chimney I wanted to vent to the rear, this way I can pull the oven under the pergola without fear of setting it on fire. After considering several alternatives, I settled on a 6” flexible aluminum vent tube. Knowing it may/will erode, I covered the whole thing with refractory mix supported by hardware cloth- and then pearlcrete. My hope is that if/when the aluminum erodes the concrete will remain.
Questions? Comments? Criticism?
On the other hand ignore this caution if you have retained the front flue and tracked the pipe over the top of the dome to the rear. We call this a squirrel tail design which retains the benefit of the cross flow draft with good circulation.
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Ok, last post to bring us up to current. For a chimney I wanted to vent to the rear, this way I can pull the oven under the pergola without fear of setting it on fire. After considering several alternatives, I settled on a 6” flexible aluminum vent tube. Knowing it may/will erode, I covered the whole thing with refractory mix supported by hardware cloth- and then pearlcrete. My hope is that if/when the aluminum erodes the concrete will remain.
Questions? Comments? Criticism?
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