2 meter diameter New build oven with pumice reinforced with Basalt Rebar

[MarkJerling]

Ah well, you know the saying: Happy wife, happy life! LOL

I always remind my wife:

Remember, when a man says he'll do something, he will.
There's no need to remind him every six months.

[Alomran]

I love how you're repurposing stuff Alomran ! Your "Roman" heating solution is brilliant!

Unfortunately, my attempt to "repurposing" is painful when the wife doubts you after loosing faith finishing the oven!

[MarkJerling]

I love how you're repurposing stuff Alomran ! Your "Roman" heating solution is brilliant!

[Alomran]

The planning/Greenbelt restrictions prevents me from building a gazebo. A seating area is designed to benefit from the smoke emitted by the cooking surface of the stove and utilise the smoke/heat generated to run it under the granite slabs to heat it up theon. No calculations were carried out on how much heat is required, hence the two stoves are connected to the shaft created in between the two walls (with tiled surfaces). Someone's bottom is either going to be too cold or it will be burnt like hell by the granite surface!
An antique kakelugn ceramic stove from 1832, looks slightly like a Birthday icing is to obscure the stove. The antique kakelugn ceramic stove is yet to be assembled.

[Alomran]

Carp lace of Sennacherib, old Mesopotamia,

[Alomran]

[Alomran]

image-27-08-21-03-30.jpeg

Hi Alomran,

Would love to see if you have started flaming pies in there. What's cooking?

[Alomran]

[Alomran]

Hi Alomran,

Would love to see if you have started flaming pies in there. What's cooking?

Hi Wolf, The oven's entrance and chimney are yet to be finished!

[wolfmoonex]

Hi Alomran,

Would love to see if you have started flaming pies in there. What's cooking?

[Alomran]

Alomran,

It doesn't appear that you have enough room on the sides of your hearth for the insulation layer. I'm not sure about the back. I had the same problem. I took care of that by pouring a reinforced concrete cantilever ring to support it. After forming the ring, I placed a thin sheet of roofing metal against the ceramic fiber insulation. My thinking was that it would help keep from compressing the insulation and keep the insulation from wicking water from the concrete. Once that had set I installed the vermicrete. The last pic shows a mesh that I installed over the vermicrete with spacers. I then installed what I called at the time a stucco layer. It was not a coventional stucco application. More like water resistant ferrocrete. That layer is very strong and water resistant. It is not a breathable layer like true stucco. That is where a vent comes into play and is very necessary with a water proof outside shell. I did lot of cooking in the oven prior to installing the brick venier and had no cracks. To date there are no cracks in the outside shell.

Since you will not have a roof cover, make sure that you build up the area behind the chimney level with the apex of the dome before installing your final render/stucco and or tile.

Hi , Allow me to juice your brain and benefit from your vast experience as well as of those on this forum....when putting a vapour valve on top of the dome, is sometimes visible in cold winters to see any visually traces of vapour being emitted from the valve?

[Alomran]

The next stage is the entrance !!

[MarkJerling]

It is always a pleasure to converse with another fellow slave/architect!!
I've started my oven with red clay bricks, then realised that it won't stand the heat so I switched to fire bricks. I used night store heater bricks for the floor. In hindsight, I should have had the guts to use the night store heater bricks for the dome too. Well done for being courageous enough to try the night store heater bricks.
Is your oven's floor sloped to the outside at the entrance?

Hahaha. Indeed. I see that's your profession too. How's things in the UK? Here, we're incrediby busy.

Yes, the nightstore heater bricks has worked very well. They hold the heat incredibly well, as is to be expected, I suppose. My floor is laid flat on a thick layer of fine sharp compacted sand. The only floor bricks that get wet are those that project on the outside of the door, so I now cover those to protect from rain, so the water from outside does not penetrate in, but probably gets into the outer part of the sand, for which I do have drainage holes. In due course, I plan to seperate that sand and those floor slabs from the inside of the oven and install a thermal break at floor level at the same time. Maybe next summer.

[david s]

You are correct. However I needed a protective layer for the ceramic blanket while it remains exposed to the elements since the galvanised mesh remained un-tiled for 8 months! Meanwhile, I left the bubble aluminum sheets layers overlapping loosely to breathe rather than water tight completely.

I also used an aluminium foil layer between the insulation layer and the outer render when I built my oven around 12 years ago.. Having some concerns about trapping moisture I decided to perforate the foil in two places, one at the top of the dome and the other about a third the way down from the top. Both were about 4 square inches. As we live in the tropics, during our wet season the whole oven including the inner dome and the insulation layer will pick up moisture from the atmosphere even if it hasn't rained. After a couple of weeks of this 90% humidity, even a roof will not keep that out. Fortunately I also have a venting system that allows the insulation layer to vent to the atmosphere. When firing the oven after these conditions to dry it out the outer shell gets quite hot, particularly in the two places where I perforated the foil. I can only conclude that steam is passing through the foil at these places. This must obviously slow down the drying process. I wish I hadn't applied a foil layer and now never build an oven with one. This may never be a problem for you as I don't know your weather conditions. Another consideration about a foil layer is that it will not prevent radiant heat by reflection if it has a conductive layer like a cement render sitting against it. It must have air or a very insulative layer surrounding it. Aluminium is highly conductive so it will transfer heat by conduction readily.

[Alomran]

I see you started off with night store heater bricks. I've built mine out of night store heater bricks. Coincidentally, I also have a foil layer under my plaster render layer. It's worked well. I do get some moisture ingress at floor level as my floor bricks project too far out the door of my oven, but the dome itself and the floor in the oven is good and dry.

It is always a pleasure to converse with another fellow slave/architect!!
I've started my oven with red clay bricks, then realised that it won't stand the heat so I switched to fire bricks. I used night store heater bricks for the floor. In hindsight, I should have had the guts to use the night store heater bricks for the dome too. Well done for being courageous enough to try the night store heater bricks.
Is your oven's floor sloped to the outside at the entrance?