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Record of my 32" Homebrew cast oven, on a brick base - West Midlands, UK

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  • Originally posted by Mullster View Post
    Good work Nick J C .

    i picked up a tomato sauce recipe a while back that is awesome - can of tomatoes blended with salt, olive oil, oregano, fresh basil and garlic granules/powder. Has taken our pizzas to another level!
    Sounds great, could you share the quantities? Is that whizzed up in the blender?

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    • Originally posted by Nick J C View Post
      Taped up and ready
      Nick J C was the paint pot just placed onto the top of the rectangular block or secured with a glue? did it just pull out up over when the cast was set, leaving you to drop (because of your shims) then pul out the main form?
      Also, did you leave the outer side panels on your former, or remove them when you did the cast?

      Thanks again.

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      • Originally posted by TonyPizza View Post
        Nick J C was the paint pot just placed onto the top of the rectangular block or secured with a glue? did it just pull out up over when the cast was set, leaving you to drop (because of your shims) then pul out the main form?
        Also, did you leave the outer side panels on your former, or remove them when you did the cast?

        Thanks again.
        Dont secure the paint pot with glue, or you will never get it out! I ran a bead of silicone around the base so none of the casting got caught under the paint tin. I would consider doing something to make it easier to remove too, as mine was a struggle to remove - wrap it in thin card, or clingfilm perhaps. The 'funnel' beneath was also just siliconed to just secure lightly. The formwork beneath, as you saw is placed on shims - these are a struggle to get out, so use plastic if possible. Make sure all your screws that you use to join bits of formwork are accessible (espacially the screws joining the larger and smaller formworks) - it is far easier to remove if you can do this, particularly if you start to struggle, you can proceed to remove screws until it falls apart. I used nails in areas that wouldnt be accessible, as screws dont budge. Make sure you either use a non absorbent boarding for formwork, or parcel tape to make outer surface non absorbent - lots of galleries seem to have caused a problem and damaged unless all of these procedures adhered to..

        I didnt end up needing the outer formers, as the casting goo was nice and mouldable, and squeezing the air out was easier without.

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        • Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
          Best practices and cheap insurance. When liquid water sublimates to steam the volume of water increases by 1500 times which can build up pressure in the dome potentially cracking either the v/pcrete or render or both.
          Ok thanks, what's best practice for attaching the arch? wires and fire cement? I'm still very much at the planning stage, impressed with your build Nick.

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          • Originally posted by Chalky View Post

            Ok thanks, what's best practice for attaching the arch? wires and fire cement? I'm still very much at the planning stage, impressed with your build Nick.
            I am by no means an expert, but from my reading and advice from the experts here including David S, the best way to attach the decorative arch to the dome is by imbedding thin wire into the arch at moulding, and laying these within the vermicrete layer (long wire around the top of the flue will stop it falling down whilst it cures). Small gap with few bits of card to make thermall break, then fill with nothing, or some weak vermicrete at bottom.

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            • That is how I do it and by no means the only solution. The wires are better tied into the outer rendered shell rather than the vermicrete layer though as vermicrete has no strength, particularly is you make it quite lean as a 10:1 brew.I use some coloured wool tied to the ends of the wire ties because they tend to get lost in the vermicrete. Using some masking tape around the outer arch enables a nice neat finish when removed.
              Click image for larger version  Name:	P2170022 copy.jpg Views:	0 Size:	89.3 KB ID:	425559
              Last edited by david s; 07-08-2020, 12:13 PM.
              Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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              • There you go....from the horses mouth
                Last edited by Nick J C; 07-08-2020, 12:18 PM.

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                • Originally posted by mesoiam View Post

                  Sounds great, could you share the quantities? Is that whizzed up in the blender?
                  Yes whizzed in blender - it’s all to taste - 400g can of tomatoes - about 1/2 tsp of garlic, tsp of salt, slug of oil, tsp of oregano and as much fresh basil as you like. These are not exact
                  My cast oven build thread

                  https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-castable-dome

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                  • Originally posted by Nick J C View Post
                    There you go....from the horses mouth
                    thank you both...I will post if I ever get past the planning stage!

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                    • Hello everyone, im about to start my first wfo
                      and im really glad i came across this forum as i nearly started yoga ball concrete/perlite dome.
                      I do have a question, what size stainless needles should i go for? They are 0.4mm Available in lengths of 12mm, 25mm and 35mm.
                      I do live in uk midlands as well and will be using the same supplier Nick did.
                      Thank you.

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                      • Reach out to David S he is our resident cast expert on SS length.

                        Please start you own thread to capture all your questions and answers in a central place and not hijack another members thread.
                        Russell
                        Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                        • Although they’re known as ss needles the correct name if searching for them is “melt extract fibres”. The ones I use are 25mm long x 0.5mm thick and not cheap. Add between 2%-5% by weight of dry castable.
                          Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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                          • Render scratch coat today. Cardboard around flue to allow for expansion. Mix 1:1:6 Cement: lime: plastering sand with ar glass fibres to reinforce (couple of handfuls per mix). Curved trowels helpful to get hemispherical profile. I made a smaller, thicker one by laminating several layers of ply to the correct radius, which was easiest to apply the render, and the larger one for scraping the profile
                            Last edited by Nick J C; 07-10-2020, 05:54 AM.

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                            • Started work on roof, to sit on granite platform, waiting for scratch coat to harden before final rendering of dome

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                              • Hi Nick,

                                I've been following your build and looks really good. I'm at the stage now of waiting for a bit of decent weather to build the sandcastle and get casting, I'm under 30" pizza cast Scotland thread . I've a wee question if you don't mind, reference the gallery. Did you cast the same thickness of homebrew for the gallery as you did for the dome, or was it a little thinner for the flue gallery?
                                Cheers.

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