Jim's Build for the Common Man

[jimkramer]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

So when I actually mortared them in, the bricks did not meet up well. Not sure why this happened, but beveling the edges seemed to add a level of complexity that I decided to avoid. So I went back to just angling the sides, no bevel. At least the top side edges meet fairly well. For the most part. I can't seem to get it consistent. Maybe my IT is moving around.

So due to my loosey-goosey build, some joints luck pretty good, some look dang ugly, with big gaps. But I think it will still stay standing for a good many years. At least the arch is done. It all looks pretty good from far away at least.

[jimkramer]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

A more important question than the above. I angled the sides of my bricks and they fit together very tight. When I even just butter the sides, I don't get brick to brick contact. Can I mortar just the bottom, no mortar on the sides?

[jimkramer]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Okay. It's coming along. I'm going to take a day off from work tomorrow, so I should be able to make good progress on the dome.

-I have to cut the first brick for a chain that goes right next to the arch. However, there's a corner from an arch brick that is sticking up (in first pic). It's about 2" long and maybe 1/4" high. Can I grind that down, or is it a bad idea to cause all those vibrations on the arch and dome? It would make it easier to place the brick on top if I could grind it down. Though I could also cut some out from the brick above.

[mrchipster]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

It's time to go Vertical by RCLake
# 68 by JCG31

The spreadsheet first appears there.

[jimkramer]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Thanks all.

Next question: How do you calculate the bevel (the angled vertical cut on the sides of the brick) that allows you to avoid the inverted V? I know I've seen this in other posts, but didn't make a note of it for future reference.

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Russell's picture tells all! The easiest way to do it is to cut your TDC brick first, and then each brick to the right and left and so on. Use your IT to make a mark on the top of each brick, and use the arch form to mark the bottom. This will give you the line for each brick. I found it significantly easier to cut the taper (sides) each brick holding it my hand vs cutting it on the saw table. It takes a little practice, but you'll get the hang of it quickly.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

It is the orientation of the plane of the angles that changes from each brick from the TDC (Top Dead Center brick) as you move down either side of the arch, your IT can help you mark the orientation of the plane rotation as it moves down the arch. Notice how one side of plane on a brick may be higher or lower than the opposite side. But the "slope" angle from the IT remains constant, just rotates.

[oasiscdm]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Changes with each Buick from memory

[oasiscdm]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Changes with each Buick from memory

[jimkramer]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

I think I got it. So are the arch bricks Identical? I thought from other builds I saw that the angle cut for the dome bricks to rest on top changes. If not, that sure would make it simpler.

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Building the inner arch- can anyone help me understand how to determine the angle of the slope to cut into the arch bricks to accommodate the dome bricks?

Jim,

It's easy. I made two identical wood templates of the interior dome profile I wanted. The first one I used periodically to keep each course consistent with the profile. The second one I cut vertically to account for the vertical inner arch.

At the center of my inner arch form, I laid a full firebrick. For lack of a better term, I call this brick my TDC (top dead center) brick. Then I took my trimmed dome template, placed it against the top of the 7th course and made a mark (A). You can't see it very well, but it has an arrow pointed at it. I used this mark to determine the red line (B), which extends from the floor center of the dome past the face of the inner arch. This would ensure that the top of the course immediately above the inner arch would stay level all around. I think this is the angle you asked about.

The last angle was simple: just match the curvature of the template to end up with an inner-facing (down) brick angle that matches the rest of the dome on that course.

I hope this explains it. If you have more questions, just holler.

John

You can find more images here (post #34)

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/8/octoforno-7122-4.html

[mrchipster]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Put a mark or knot in the string where the inner radius of the dome is. (A) This will help you with the shape of the arch brick for the cut that goes from the arch opening to the point on the arch brick. Put another knot or mark on the string at the outer radius of the dome. (B) This mark will set the angle for the top of the pointed part of the arch brick (the area that contacts the dome bricks for the next layer.

When getting the position for the bottom cut, you can see that the (b) location is insignificant. But both A and B are important for the top cut. And the B position determines the top cut, the A positions determine the inner surface of the dome, and the related lower or inner cut angle.

See the drawing it might help.

[jimkramer]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

Building the inner arch- can anyone help me understand how to determine the angle of the slope to cut into the arch bricks to accomodate the dome bricks? I thought I had it figured out by holding a string to the dome center, then extending to the arch bricks. But this doesn't seem quite right in practice. Should I post pics to illustrate my quandry?

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

I had the same problems with my HF saw. On numerous occasions I submersed my pump in a sink full of warm water and ran it for awhile. Each time this helped. I also took a piece of flexible wire and ran it up into the jet. This also accelerated the water pressure of the jet.

Regarding compensating for your dreaded droop, extending bricks into the dome on higher arch courses will not present any problems. Virtually all of the arch thrust is vertical. Any small portion of the inward-extended bricks will be supported by the dome in a strong, cohesive init. Of course, instead of adding another course, you can make it up in mortar over the course (!) of several courses. Ha! Really, I wouldn't worry about it much.

[deejayoh]

Re: Jim's Build for the Common Man

To your saw question - Take the blade off the saw, and reach up under the hood. The water jet is a piece of copper pipe that probably got knocked askew. Just bend it/re-aim it so it hits the blade.