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42" build in McPherson KS

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Originally posted by cobblerdave View Post
    G’day
    Tried that with limited success as you are trapped into reapplying often.
    Built an external entrance cover to prevent rain from blowing in on the hearth. Works well enough But Once moisture gets to your insulation it takes forever to dry your oven again and get it working well. Personally believe that overhead cover for the whole structure is still the only real trusted method of keeping a dry oven
    regards Dave
    I may build a little roof over the patio eventually (and extend the chimney up through the roof). For now I think I will get out my grinder and take out the firebricks from the outer arch and replace with some yellow clay bricks that a friend found for me.

    Thanks!

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G’day
    Tried that with limited success as you are trapped into reapplying often.
    Built an external entrance cover to prevent rain from blowing in on the hearth. Works well enough But Once moisture gets to your insulation it takes forever to dry your oven again and get it working well. Personally believe that overhead cover for the whole structure is still the only real trusted method of keeping a dry oven
    regards Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • slschoming
    replied
    Originally posted by cobblerdave View Post
    Gday
    fire bricks have nil water proofing unlike a house brick. Just diferent uses. Would not us firebricks in any external spot will just soak up water.
    regards Dave
    I didn't think about that. When I am done, the only firebricks that will be exposed to the elements will be the front arch and the landing. Do you think it would help if I put some masonry water repellent on the outer arch? And maybe the front edge of my landing?

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    Gday
    fire bricks have nil water proofing unlike a house brick. Just diferent uses. Would not us firebricks in any external spot will just soak up water.
    regards Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • slschoming
    replied
    Made a little more progress today. I wanted to visualize this thing so I took some scrap wood and made a frame/outline just to see the final shape (photo 2)...

    Transitioning to my flue similar to azatty's post here:

    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...iner#post14605
    Last edited by slschoming; 09-09-2019, 07:17 AM.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    I plan to do a stair step with my exterior bricks, but they are the type with holes. Is it better to extend the mortar joint out to the edge of the brick with a slight slope, or just fill the hoels with mortar? ... Attaching a dry stack image for reference..
    Last edited by slschoming; 09-05-2019, 09:10 AM.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    One year ago today I broke ground and framed out my slab... I was really hoping to be eating my first pizza today..

    I made a little progress on the landing today. I leveled everything up by grinding stuff that was too high and filling in low spots with pcrete. I mortared the very front edge row of firebrick down and I have 1 firebrick length of running board (loose) between that edge and my stainless steel break. I also made a template for the outer arch.

    Does the firebrick stay this bright yellow, or does the color eventually fade? I want to age the look of the fire brick edge. Are there any techniques I should try? I was thinking about dipping a sponge in some really wet home brew and stamping the face of it or something. I might test that out on a scrap of firebrick and see if that helps.
    Last edited by slschoming; 09-03-2019, 07:34 AM.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Very sorry for the late reply. I did not mortar my entry fie brick in place. However, at the heatbreak, I did switch from herringbone to a running bond. The only mortared in section is a thin strip across the opening even with the outside face brick. That is what I call the entry. My landing (or shelf) is poured concrete.It sets outside separately on corbels, is removable and has very slight slope away from the oven for drainage. My theory behind that is that in a driveing rain it will allow water to drain away from the oven. Also, water that does make it to the entry, will drain between the entry and the shelf.

    I poured my corbels with the hearth slab. But, I have seen others add support for corbels and the the shelf by drilling large tapcon screws into the hearth slab.

    I really think that the entry fire brick need some insulation underneath. P/Vcrete will level your enty and add some insulation imo.
    Last edited by Gulf; 08-29-2019, 08:28 PM.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Gulf pardon the terrible sketch, but here is the new plan... I will pour a small concrete ledge with a lip so that I can lay firebrick between my stainless steel heatbreak and the lip in the concrete. I can reinforce the (approx. 3" thick) concrete with rebar and still have firebrick as the landing floor.

    Leave a comment:


  • slschoming
    replied
    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    How long has the locust been dead? Start the seasoning time form the first notice of it dying. I use a lot of dead fall. It starts drying as soon as the sap quits flowing.
    All but one branch has been dead for a year now. I have some older stuff that has fallen in my yard over the past few years that I can use up and then this tree should be ready..

    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    I just placed a flat ceramic fiber tape in the seam and continued on out with fire brick through my entry. My entry takes a lot of abuse. I drag coals out of the oven for the tuscan grill and for dirty steaks.

    Chicken wire is not reinforcement. 4" thick concrete should have 3/8" tp 1/2" rebar for standard concrete. However, for a refractory, it is a different ball game on the use of reinforcement. I guess it is up to you on how you will use that small amount of valuable real estate.
    Maybe pouring the landing isn't a good idea for me after all.. I don't want to mess with figuring out how to reinforce refractory and if it isn't as durable as firebrick then I don't think it's the right choice anyway... I plan to use a tuscan grill and I imagine I will be equally rough on the landing. I was just trying to come up with an easy solution to the variations in height I have going on right now between the insulation, firebrick, house brick...I do not have a nice level area there right now. I guess I will take a grinder or cutoff wheel to try to level it out the best I can so I can extend out to the edge with firebrick.

    Do you mortar the firebricks together in the landing area or leave them loose like the floor under the dome? I was hoping to have a 2 inch overhang but that obviously won't work with loose firebrick.

    Thanks for your reply!

    Leave a comment:


  • Gulf
    replied
    Sorry about the late reply. I want to comment on your last three posts.

    How long has the locust been dead? Start the seasoning time form the first notice of it dying. I use a lot of dead fall. It starts drying as soon as the sap quits flowing.

    I'm not pointing out "flaws" to your plan. I'm just relating what I did and how I use my oven. I did not use the ss heat break so I can't comment on how it would work with the way I use my entry. I just placed a flat ceramic fiber tape in the seam and continued on out with fire brick through my entry. My entry takes a lot of abuse. I drag coals out of the oven for the tuscan grill and for dirty steaks.

    Chicken wire is not reinforcement. 4" thick concrete should have 3/8" tp 1/2" rebar for standard concrete. However, for a refractory, it is a different ball game on the use of reinforcement. I guess it is up to you on how you will use that small amount of valuable real estate.

    Leave a comment:


  • slschoming
    replied
    I found the thread I was referring to above, it was Tscarborough who talked about having a poured a landing, and it was plain mortar not homebrew.

    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...098#post129098

    I am hoping to have a poured landing (about 4 inches thick) with a 2-inch overhang and am wondering if I need any reinforcement like chicken wire? I am thinking I will use homebrew instead of plain mortar.

    Let me know if there are any flaws with this plan.

    Leave a comment:


  • slschoming
    replied
    I will be using a stainless steel break between my firebrick floor and the landing, similar to what UtahBeehiver did with his. I am wanting to "pour" my landing. Should I be doing this with homebrew, regular mortar, concrete, something else?

    I think I read a comment (by david s, maybe?) on another thread about using homebrew for this, but that you should not get the mix wet enough to pour or it will crack but now I can't find that thread again. Does that sound right?

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Well, I didn't get as much done as I wanted on the oven this weekend, but I filled my wood storage and then some. I had to bring down a dead locust tree because my wife's tree climbing uncle was in town with his gear. It was a pretty neat process... So, in a year or so I will have plenty of seasoned locust wood. Hopefully I have an oven by then..

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  • Gulf
    replied
    It looks and sounds good. I have a 44". I did full scale drawings on cardboard to help me be sure. The drawings, one for the foot print and one for a side view., helped me a lot. I think that you have this, so take plenty of pics. It will help someone else down the line.

    Leave a comment:

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