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42" build in McPherson KS

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Giant Legos

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  • slschoming
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    Picked up some used brick last night and cut/stacked my first row of block.

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  • slschoming
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    this is how I plan to stagger my 3/4 blocks.. the straight line on the right side represents a corner so the blocks there that are labeled "1/2" are actually full blocks turned 90 degrees to tie into the corner. Turns out there will only be a half core between these two complete cores so it should be just fine.

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  • slschoming
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    shanxk8 I had thought about that, but will already have an overhang of about 6". I'm not too worried about the cut blocks, as I will be able to fill most cores. I will strategically place the 3/4 blocks in a way that I can fill the cores in all the corners and I will always have the complete core of a 3/4 block lined up so it can be filled. I may also use a little mortar to join the cut end of a block to the rest of the wall.

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  • shanxk8
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    What about using a 1/2 block (i.e. standard size) rather than 3/4? That way you will have aligned cores. It will mean you would have an extra ~2" overhang for your hearth slab on each of the four sides (4" total). Unless you were already planning for a large overhang, adding 2" to the overhand should not be a problem.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Thanks cobblerdave and Gulf

    Originally posted by Gulf View Post

    I think Dave has just about covered it. Just dry stack and then fill at least every other core.

    I'm not sure what you meant by "cut some blocks" ? It is easier to lay out the footprint of the stand for whole and half blocks.
    Yeah, I realize that now, but not before I poured my slab (5' x 5'). I will be cutting 4 inches off of two blocks for each row. Attached is a sketch of the layout of my first row. I will be staggering these 3/4 blocks, so I won't necessarily have perfectly lined up cores, hence the quikwall (surface bonding cement). I will still fill the corners and every other core where I can, but I will also be relying on the quikwall. I am adding some coloring to the quikwall as well, so hopefully that can also suffice as a finishing layer for the base.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Do you think I could get away with just stacking without adding the mortar under the bottom?
    I think Dave has just about covered it. Just dry stack and then fill at least every other core.

    I'm not sure what you meant by "cut some blocks" ? It is easier to lay out the footprint of the stand for whole and half blocks.

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    Gday
    Get out those blocks and have a play. Don't forget those things are built to have a Mortar joint to go around the corners so those blocks will have a 10 mm play.
    A tape measure from back left to front right and from back right to front left ... if they are not the same.... time to move them around cause they aren't straight.
    when you satisfied your on the right track Mortar them down.
    Dry stack with washers etc to keep it on line.
    Sloppy concrete poured in the corners then ever secound block hole, the others fill with empty concrete bags beer bottles etc.
    If your a bit off with with the levels don't worry you'll catch that with your top slab.
    enjoy the journey!
    regards Dave

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Gulf hardly at all. There seems to be one little hump in the slab that makes the bottom row slope just a little bit in one spot. When I said that I was going to level the bottom row, I meant that I was going to put down a layer of mortar under the very bottom row only, so I could get it nice and even. No mortar between the blocks, just under the very bottom row to ensure a very level start. after stacking I plan to fill some specific cores, and then apply a layer of colored quikwall around the whole thing. Do you think I could get away with just stacking without adding the mortar under the bottom?

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  • Gulf
    replied
    How far out of level is it?

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  • slschoming
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    Trying to visualize before I actually dry stack. I'm going to have to cut some blocks and level the bottom row before I actually get going on this.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Yes, only in the structural hearth. Some builder place a piece of wire mesh over the bottom of the hole to keep bugs out. You only need 2-3 weep holes.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Thanks UtahBeehiver. So if I do the david s crown method, the weep holes would only be through the structural slab and the p/vcrete would be a solid pour with no holes, correct?

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    An enclosure or roof over the igloo will certainly minimizes water getting in via the dome. However, there are many exposed igloos that have weathered the storm, you just need to weatherproof as best as possible. IHMO you still need weep holes with p/vcrete for any water the gets in can have a egress out. P/Vcrete is a very porous structure and lots of place for water to gather. In addition water on the hearth could wick up as well. Another water source is the entry way, some builders have made what I call a storm door to project the vent area from water getting in and to the insulation, I know David S of Australia suggest a crown in the middle of the hearth sloping out to the edges with weep holes. You could do this then pour the top of p/vcrete level for accepting the firebricks.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Hey UtahBeehiver, if I do a 4-inch vermi- or pericrete layer instead of using FB board under my fire brick floor do I need to worry about weep holes and water issues? The more I read the more I think I'm going to need a roof overhead to keep water out of my dome insulation.

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