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42" Build in Seville Ohio!!

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  • zoolander
    replied
    I did brick temps for mine....Air temps will vary greatly.

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  • Alomran
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    The FB eplans has a generic suggested curing schedule, I snipped it and attached. It is just an example so just be prudent and take your time. One extra piece of wood can really spike the temperature, so less is best.
    Are the referred temperatures of the air within the dome or are they of the actual dome's bricks temperature?

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Welcome to the forum, now would be a good time to start you own build thread so you can get specific feedback on you particular build. Most masonry/brick supply stores(not your big box stores) carry brickie's clay. Several brands out there, ie HC Muddox is one. Some builders have luck at a pottery store as well. You only need the sand/fire clay slurry if your CaSi board is unlevel. But you will need the fireclay if you are using homebrew mortar.

    A couple items to check on your IT, make sure the projected line from the pivot point along the rod to the "L" bracket hits what will be the horizontal center of the brick. Also, make the length adjustable. There are a lot of variables where an adjustable IT will save you some alignment problems. The closer the pivot point is to the floor elevation the better, ideally right at floor level.

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  • Dyerema
    replied
    Can someone tell me where to get fireclay to mix with sand to use as a slurry for the floor bricks. I am in Canada.

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  • Dyerema
    replied

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  • Dyerema
    replied
    Thanks to all contributors. I have my support structure done and I am slowly getting the courage to start my dome build.

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  • zoolander
    replied
    I figured I'd throw in an update on the progress....I'm continuing to make some headway although the momentum has slowed some. I think the real motivator at this point is that "winter is coming" and I'm super sick of having to cover this thing with a tarp all the time. I used some leftover paver block for the chimney which is held up by 1/2 thick angle iron, it actually worked quite nicely.....I plan on using slate for the roof and will hopefully have it done here in the near future. Go team!

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  • zoolander
    replied
    Some new pics from the latest Za party I made a pie with super hot chiles and it was epic!! Super addicted to pizza making....

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  • zoolander
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    Congrats on the first pizza party. It seems once the pizzas start the finish work stops or slows down. I am still trying to tie up some loose ends and I finished main oven in 2012. Each firing get better and better and you learn all the nuances of your oven.
    Thanks!! And yes, I can already see how slowing down on the last details could become a real possibility...hopefully I can push through...we'll see

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Congrats on the first pizza party. It seems once the pizzas start the finish work stops or slows down. I am still trying to tie up some loose ends and I finished main oven in 2012. Each firing get better and better and you learn all the nuances of your oven.

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  • zoolander
    replied
    Originally posted by Brwilliams88 View Post

    Cool thanks. I been calling it a joint tuck trowel. Haha thanks for the clarification. So I have some joints that are an 8th of an inch wide that isnt completly filled with mortar. So u should go in and add some mortar to make it flush with the inside of the dome ?
    Absolutely! Point and tuck any and every joint.....I went to a local brick supply yard and bought some disposable mason piping bags, filled them with mortar and then squeezed mortar into the joint. I then used a variety of tools to push the mortar as deep into the joint as I could. I'll be honest, I didn't want to do it but it makes a huge difference in appearance and will likely extend the life and performance of the oven. Good luck, Zoo

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  • zoolander
    replied
    Oven has been cured!!!!! I still need to get the lid done and the doors made but as noted in Star Wars episode 4 "the death star is fully operational"!! Attached are some pics from the first of hopefully many pizza parties
    Last edited by zoolander; 07-15-2019, 06:46 AM.

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  • zoolander
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    The FB eplans has a generic suggested curing schedule, I snipped it and attached. It is just an example so just be prudent and take your time. One extra piece of wood can really spike the temperature, so less is best.
    Very nice!! Thanks!

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    The FB eplans has a generic suggested curing schedule, I snipped it and attached. It is just an example so just be prudent and take your time. One extra piece of wood can really spike the temperature, so less is best.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brwilliams88
    replied
    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    Basically, pointing is filling any gaps where mortar does not completely fill the spaces between brick. If you do a search on pointing brick you will find mostly information on repointing. Russell, UtahBeehiver , included a pic of a pointing tool in post #6. Pointing tools come in different sizes that correspond to the sizes of a the various sized mortar joints for normal normal brick work. The V-joints in a WFO that are caused by the compound curve are not normal. The V-joint can go from 0" to upwardss of 3/4". It takes a lot of ingenuity to completely fill a joint like that using any type of tool. It can be done but, (for those following the build) it is best to make sure that all head and bed joints are full while initially laying the brick. It is a lot easier once you learn how to butter the brick with mortar. It only takes practicie to figure this out. Always make sure that hte joints to the inside of the dome are completely full while first laying the brick. If there is a void, make sure that it is to the outside.It is so much easier to point from the outside of the dome.
    Cool thanks. I been calling it a joint tuck trowel. Haha thanks for the clarification. So I have some joints that are an 8th of an inch wide that isnt completly filled with mortar. So u should go in and add some mortar to make it flush with the inside of the dome ?

    Leave a comment:

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