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How is this stand? Do I need to fix anything?

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  • How is this stand? Do I need to fix anything?


    I recently stacked my stand and I had a conversation with a mason who recommended that I don't dry stack my blocks. Is what I have done is ok? The diagonals are equal. I used mortar on the bottom layer. I plan to fill cores with rebar. I have concerns about the "right wall.jpg"

    I've attached photos, can someone advise?


    Attached Files

  • #2
    Howdy Michael! I would guess the majority of ovens documented on the forum did a dry stack with alternate core fill that was rebar tied into the top slab. Being an "over builder", I would suggest a stack/stub wall to support the center section of your wood storage area. Masons always suggest mortar because block alignments assume that 1/4" of mortar will be applied. Your dry stack base is fine. Keep posting your progress pics & any build questions you have.
    Mike Stansbury - The Traveling Loafer
    Roseburg, Oregon

    FB Forum: The Dragonfly Den build thread
    Available only if you're logged in = FB Photo Albums-Select media tab on profile


    • #3
      Thanks for the quick reply and your expert advice. Did you notice my right wall pic where the wall is slightly curved? I'm wondering about a solution to that. My plan is to have my top slab square and have the finishing material cover it up.

      Thanks for the advice on the center wall in the wood area. I will do that.


      • #4
        I also think your dry stack is ok. As Mike pointed out, most builders dry stacked and it's a generally accepted practice. The slight bow of the right wall shouldn't be an issue. A stub wall will support the middle but will also make your storage area a bit cramped. Picture yourself fetching the last bit of firewood out of there. Or picture it sitting back there for years because you keep putting 'fresh' wood on top of it.

        The majority of weight will be around the peremiter. My stand has two openings into the storage and a lot of open spans but no stub wall. Also being an over builder I compensated with a thicker hearth slab and LOT of steel. If you want extra piece of mind on your walls, fill every core.

        Good luck.
        - George

        My Build


        • #5
          about the bow in the right wall, when you frame for your hearth you'll have a gap at either end. Concrete won't fall through small gaps. Good plan to just compensate with your finish material.
          - George

          My Build


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mongo View Post
            I also think your dry stack is ok. .

            Thanks a lot for the extra reassurance. I've got wire mesh and a perimeter of rebar but I think I'll purchase some more and fill more cores than planned. Having the slab continuous with the cores is a really nice idea and a friend did the same with his oven.

            thanks again!



            • #7
              Wall looks good to me. and there are structural analysis articles out there that prove drystack is stronger than a mortared wall. The downside is that they are nearly impossible to keep as straight/plumb as a mortared wall.

              also, all my levels have a top/bottom. The vials have a slight curve to them which effect how they read level. All mine are older though, maybe the new tech is different.


              • #8
                If dry stacking, I prefer to use masonry adhesive. It doesn’t really matter as filling cores is sufficient to hold everything together. The main reason mortar joints are used is to get correct levels, compensating for brick inconsistencies. If using masonry adhesive you can adjust the levels with some 8mm washers in a few strategic places. For folk who haven’t developed mortaring skills this is far easier. Sorry this tip is probably too late.
                Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.


                • #9
                  Hi Michael,

                  A fellow dry-stacker here as well. I built a BBQ in AZ several years ago, dry stacked cinder block and used construction adhesive from one course to the next . No issues. Now that I'm up in the NW, I have built another BBQ using the same method. (This time around, I have did not stucco the outside as I'm not in the SW anymore.. went with a paver facade, also dry stacked and adhered with construction adhesive..) As I told my wife, it may not handle me running the tractor in to it, however I'm not too concerned about shifting with all the weight on it.

                  So far I've go the BBQ and smoker in place and have dry stacked the pizza oven base. I also did what Mongo had suggested and put a supporting wall in the middle. I lost a lot of storage space but.. I have plenty of other storage areas in the project... I knew that a 36" span would be a lot to ask to support an oven.. and there's also lots of other places for critters to hide around the property. :-)

                  I'll be starting a post shortly with my base build and hopefully I can get some good feedback like yourself. Best of luck and I look forward to seeing your handy work!

                  - Opedog


                  • #10


                    • #11
                      wow thanks so much everyone! I have the stand nearly complete, which includes a middle wall for extra support as recommended. I've got to frame up my non-insulating 4 inch hearth next that I find intimidating. Hopefully I can frame this straight since it'll be visible! (unlike my below ground foundation).