36" Corner Build in Minnesota

[SableSprings]

Chris, it doesn't matter which side of the durarock is "up"- adequate rebar & forms are what makes a difference. As long as it's properly supported from below for the weight of the wet concrete (and hopefully you've included some small shims to make temporary supports easier to remove once the cement is set ). Without shims/removal plan, cutting out wood forms is sometimes much more work than it should be after the weight of concrete is applied...

Relax! It's looking to be a great build.

[MnDude45]

Help! Which side of the durarock faces up to pour concrete on??

[UtahBeehiver]

good solid form bracing.

[MnDude45]

It doesn’t appear to be much progress but the form walls on the interior of the “L” took forever to support, level and attach. Also, I finished the interior support for the Durarock below the oven. Tomorrow it’ll be Durarock and rebar.

[mongota]

Alright, I’m trying to power through building of forms and pouring of the hearth/counters this week. Any words of wisdom before moving past the point of no return?

Looking good! Keep plugging away.

Not doing a task a day will keep the pizza away.

[UtahBeehiver]

Correct, it is a way for water to egress out. Some builders raise their CaSi board off the hearth using cheap ceramic tile spaced apart with channels leading to weep holes. It is not for when the oven is heated but rather rain water that will in from the hearth or chimney area. To migrate wet dome insulation IMHO install a vent at the apex of the dome.

[MnDude45]

I’ve read a few items on this. These would be 12-15mm sleeves of pvc directly below where the oven will sit, right? These would be under where the fiber board will sit on the hearth? I’ve always been confused by this. You said a couple but is the intent of these to make sure no moisture pools between the hearth and fiber board when the oven is heated. I’m planning to have 3” of fiber board under the oven floor.

[UtahBeehiver]

Now is the time to install a couple pvc sleeves just below finish concrete.stuff the end with a wad of paper or cotton ball. Then when the pour is done just take a piece of rebar in knock the thin layer of concrete out and you have your weep holes. Wet insulation is one the most common oven performance heating problem. Weep holes allow water egress. Silicon wire mesh or screen to the bottom of the hole to keep bugs out.

[MnDude45]

I have sheets of Durarock for the form bottoms. I plan on laying them on the cinder blocks supported by the 2x4’s. I didn't screw down the vertical supports for ease of removal but will shim them tight to the Durarock.

Any other observations? I’ll take all feedback at this point.

[UtahBeehiver]

If you form bottom of oven with duracrete instead of ply you can just leave in place.

[MnDude45]

Alright, I’m trying to power through building of forms and pouring of the hearth/counters this week. Any words of wisdom before moving past the point of no return?

[MnDude45]

Ope-dog Thanks for the input. I’ve been looking at a ton of examples of IT’s this week but I’m working on setting up my forms for hearth/countertops this weekend and hope to be pouring a bunch of concrete next week.

[Ope-dog]

MnDude45,
Your build looks like it's off to a good start!! To echo Russell's point, there are different designs you can utilize, however be sure you leave yourself the proper "wiggle room" on your IT depending on which style you go with. I opted for a design that didn't require too much welding or cutting and has been used by various builds on this forum. Using a piece of all-thread with a turnbuckle allows the length to be adjusted accordingly as you start to go up in height. (To compensate for the distance between pivot point and floor base.) I actually tried to use JB Weld to keep my bracket and nut secured to each other and didn't have good success. Simple super glue ended up being more than sufficient, and I even found myself stressing the bracket much more than I should've been at times. My bracket was a simple 90 degree and I used a grinder to grind the nub off that was at the inside of the bend so it fit evenly along the edge of the brick. Measured down 1.25" and that was where I glued the center of my nut.

Not the best pic but I think you get the idea. Lots of folks blazed this IT method prior. Happy building!

[MnDude45]

I had factored in the need for the vertical adjustment but figured I could adjust the spacer on the base I use for the center brick. I hadn’t thought of your second point on the mid point.

[UtahBeehiver]

Just be aware that having the pivot point offset vertically as well as horizontally will require that you make adjustments at each course. Second, it is really important that the line projecting from the pivot point intersects the mid point on the brick thickness, ie 2.5" brick, center is 1.25". If you do not do this the brick faces will not be perpendicular to the center of the dome and the error is cumulative as you go up in courses.