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Before I answer, I will again say that I'm a first-time amateur at all this. I learned most of what I know here and elsewhere on the net. Take my "expert advice" with a big grain of salt
You stuccoed your upper enclosure using "3 coats". Is that the correct way?
I've read that you should do a "scratch" coat, "brown" coat, and finish coat. If you make your own stucco, there are slight variations in the recipe for each coat. It's just sand, portland and water. If I remember, the ratio of sand is changed on each coat.
We don't do much stucco-ing here in Kentucky, so the home centers stock very little stucco products. Most contractors mix their own. The Sakrete stuff is all I could find and it seemed to work really well with my Hardiebacker.
Another option is to spray the stucco with an air compressor and stucco spraying thing-a-ma-jig. This is cool because it's a one coat deal.
How thick are the 3 coats?
I'm going to guess between 1/2" and 3/4". A bit less than a 1/4" for each layer. I have thick and thin spots (did I say I was an amateur?)
Dino
Great progress. just got back from 10 day business trip and playing hookey to get me chimminey up. Good Idea on the extra electric sockets and access panel. I'll make sure to incorporate that when I start on the studs next week.
Greg
Dino,
You have done an amazing job with your WFO, and documentation on the forum. I've enjoyed your Picasa Web album. Thank you for the kind comments regarding my black dome enclosure. Regarding your plan to stucco the back of your enclosure, why not paint it instead? You could use a textured paint if you wish. With an inch or 2 of stucco, the electrical access panels will be somewhat complicated. Three coats of stucco to the back of your oven, which you don't see, is a lot of work. Keep up the great work.
Stephen
San Luis Obispo
"Pizza is suffused with the good feelings everyone has because they're together," Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco.
Thanks Stephen and Ken for the info on the stucco. I'm still mulling what I'll so with back of the enclosure. But I guess I could just do light coat on the back and paint it. I'll look into some more.
Glad your back Greg, look forward to seeing your progress too.
I'm going to do some more roof work today and tomorrow and I'll post some pics. Wish I could work faster but my slowness helps me check out what Mike (mfiore) is doing 1st .
Thanks Dino
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
This is a post for "rbirchell" since I was not sure how to post a picture attachment in PM. It is a pic of an oven study (NOT MINE) of what a low dome, 36" WFO might look like made primarily for pizza & flat-bread that has "high shoulders". Hope this helps, Dino
Hey Dino,
What I like about Stucco is that the color coat lasts longer than paint. By the time you prep for paint and paint I think you'd find that the time saved by painting you'd use up repainting in a few years.
Originally, I was considering a cut angle on a soldier down about 2.25 then a 5 inch dome rise; for a 14.5 inch dome. But, that seemed almost too low inside. Then I pondered the high soldier with the 5 inch rise on a flat dome to a internal height of 17ish. I wasn't finding any sample images of anyone else doing this. Which made me suspicious that it was a good idea. The outward forces on the soldier with a cut angle might put too much stress over time.
With your layout it sits flat on the soldier and bends over nicely. The load should sit OK. I'm leveling the FB board, and laying out the floor tomorrow.
Dino, what would the angles be like working off of a 4.5 soldier to 16 high dome? Have you done a study on that already? I've seen your drawing around the forum but don't recall the location of that one. I'd like to see it if so.
I'm going to play with some ellipse layouts after I lay tile on the bar today.
Ya, I suggest playing with the elipse thing because you prefer a really low dome on your 36" oven and you do want it structurally sound so you don't want to arch over too quickly. Sounds interesting, can't wait to see it once you decide on the size. I'm by no means an expert on low domes so you could start a thread on it and see what others think (but please don't hesitate to ask me or anyone else while we're building ours- my pockets full of two-cent opinions ).
I don't have any other drawing of a low dome but your right, I have seen that too somewhere.
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
Mike, you where mulling over removing your eaves on your oven. Did you end up doing that? After hitting my head and numerous cuts and slices, I've come to really hate those edges. Also, the less hair or balder a person is, the more likely he will hit his head on my eave corners and draw blood. There is a strange gravitational attraction there I can't account for .
Also: NEXT OVEN (next life) if I were to do it all over again:
I could have EASILY made my roof just slightly less steep and shortened those overhanging eaves by 2" or so and I COULD HAVE USED A 4'x8' sheet of roofing plywood instead of having 4'-5" roof side (peak) lengths that required an extra half sheet of board to cut 5" long pieces to place at my ridge. Also, the shorter eaves would save us all the head scars and scraps. And I drew everything up in autocad so I should have seen it and easily found what roof angles a 4' wide sheet would work at. Oh well, the edges are better now that I've got my facia boards up. Pics coming soon!
-Dino
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
I didn't remove the eaves, but I did cut them back 3-4 inches on each side. Once the stone is up, they will be little. I like the balance of that better. I had no intention of the long eaves to begin with, but just used full length metal studs, anticipating I'd be able to cut them back in the future. I have never used CAD. That whole planning ahead thing sort of eludes me. I just cut and screwed and mortared until everything looked right.
I'll post an update on my build link once I get the camera back in gear (who am I kidding, my toddler dropped it, totally bent the telescoped lens. It won't retract anymore. I need a new one!)
What did you use for soffit boards? Fascia?
I know exactly what you mean about scraping my head on the damn metal edges of those eaves. I should have taped a chunk of padding to the end of them. I look like Frankenstein!
I finished the plywood roof & fascia boards. Next is the 30lb roofing felt then nailing on copper flashing & the slate. I wish now I did not go with copper since I can't mix hot-dipped galv nails with copper, but I also can't have copper nails go into my steel studs grrrrr So I have 2 sizes of nails. They have to be long enough to hold the slate in but not so long as to touch a metal framing member below. Asphalt shingles would have been sooo much easier. Slate roof installation is an amazing art/science. I'm glad it's only for my enclosure and not anything larger.
Mike, my fascia boards are 1x6 (.75"x5.5") #2 pine from HD. They were straight and clean & I'll primmer & paint them, so they work. We don't get any snow/ice (call me Captain Obvious) in L.A. and little rain so I think my .7" roof plywood and this fascia board is fine. HD had some clear finished pine that just glowed & I'll use those for the soffits. That will stay unpainted with a clear coat cuz I like what Scott (smuth10) did on his. Once I get the roof on, I'll know what to do for the stone veneer and counter. Cheers, Dino
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