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Curing Concrete and Masonry

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  • #16
    Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

    There seems to be some confusion with concrete curing (where we want to keep moisture in) and oven curing where we want to gently eliminate water. It is unfortunate that the same term "curing" is used for the two techniques which are almost opposite in their desired outcomes.
    Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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    • #17
      Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

      Ferrocement - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

      another excerpt : During hardening, the ferrocement is kept moist, to ensure the cement is able to set and harden.

      The wall thickness of ferrocement constructions lies in general between 10 and 30 mm. Like other applications of cement, a considerable amount of time may be necessary for the material to fully cure and reach its final strength. Curing time is dependent upon the span or application load, and ferrocement can take a month before it is ready for use.
      sigpicTiempo para guzarlos..... ...enjoy every sandwich!

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      • #18
        Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

        Maybe David is right, should we call it "seasoning" our oven?
        sigpicTiempo para guzarlos..... ...enjoy every sandwich!

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        • #19
          Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

          Sounds like we're going to rub it with oil and herbs. But yes, another term would help avoid the confusion.
          Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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          • #20
            Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

            Hmmm, I do use rosemary in all my fires....

            the first is certainly a chemical cure when you keep concrete and mortar moist for anywhere from a day to a month.

            the second is a drying cure for refractory masonry to drive out moisture using a series of increasingly hot fires.

            they are really quite different and even oppositional tasks!

            Starting the second "cure" too soon can destroy your mortar (not the firebricks) I've done that by building a firepit and starting the fire too soon!

            ....maybe "refractory seasoning"
            sigpicTiempo para guzarlos..... ...enjoy every sandwich!

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            • #21
              Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

              Okay, it's Calcining according to this excerpt....
              • Notes on Refractory Curing:
                Refractory material has various materials in it to create tiny air pockets after curing. These air pockets are what actually insulates the furnace. Typically the manufacturer creates these pockets by adding vermiculite to the mix. This is can cause the curing to be deceptive, because the vermiculite can trap and hold water, even though the cement has kicked off and cured. Sorta like a cement sponge!

                The refractory should be allowed to cure a few days before disturbing. This is an important time, and the longer you can wait, the better. As with concrete, keep the surface from drying out by covering with wetted cloth or burlap during hot, dry days. Also keep in mind that this material does not set as hard and strong as concrete, due to all the trapped air pockets, different cement, and lack of aggregate.

                After the initial curing process, it is good to heat the material using a heat source such as a hot plate for a period of 8 hours or so. This will help to drive off the water in the cement prior to the initial firing.

                The initial firing, known as calcining, is critical. During this time the refractory is slowly heated from room temperature to the full operating temperature. This should be done over a long time as well, to allow the steam to escape the refractory. A calcining time of 12 hours is not unreasonable. Increase the heat very slowly at first to prevent the escaping steam from causing cracks, or worse.

                After calcining the unit is ready for use
              sigpicTiempo para guzarlos..... ...enjoy every sandwich!

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              • #22
                Re: Curing Concrete and Masonry

                Jim, There are two types of refractory, insulating or dense. The dense type does not contain material like vermiculite to open it up. It is designed for the hot face. The problem is that without these spaces the moisture has more difficulty in escaping. I was told buy my supplier, after I noticed some fibres in the material and was concerned about their safety, that these fibres are designed to burn away at low temp and provide tiny pathways for moisture to escape but still leaving a dense material. The temp that ceramic materials become permanent (irreversible change) is 573 C For our ovens we really only get some of the surface to this temp. But the refractory material uses calcium aluminate cement which does a good enough job to make the material hard enough.
                Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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