Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

[ThinCrust99]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I was wondering what the garden sprayer was for in the pictures.

[leckig]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

also, for spraying the dome's bricks before putting new bricks etc, I used that sprayer all the time

[dmun]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I have a eight year old miter saw that I have been hoping would break so i can buy a sliding miter with a laser line......so I will be cutting the brick with it and maybe it will do the trick....lol.

When dry cutting masonry, always protect your lungs. Even the wet mist full of silica particulates isn't good for you. As has been pointed out, those dry paper masks are pretty much useless, buy a respirator and use it.

[ThinCrust99]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

My bricks and materials finally arrived. I cut the Fire Board/Floor/and some of dome bricks. I also did some dry fitting to see how things look. I have a questions before I start laying them permanent:

In the Forno Bravo plans it talks about laying the floor BRICK in a mortor but it dosen't say anything about how to set the fireboard. How should I lay the fireboard and also the Brick floor? I am going to use two layers of fireboard for extra insulation (and the extra two inches of height)

I was surprised that the fireboard wasn't solid. I thought it would be stiffer, and am surprised that it can hold the weight of the oven. I haven't set the floor on it yet during the dry fit.

Hope to start laying the bricks tomorrow. SO having no brick laying experience, do you actually "butter" the bricks or just dry fit them and push the mortor between the cracks/

Thanks in advance for any suggestion/help.

Chris

[tifosi]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

the mortar under the brick floor is 1 part fireclay (the stuff in your water tub after cutting fire bricks) and 1 part fine sand mixed with a little water. No cement is used. I think you can use the same under the fireboard but perhaps use a little portland mixed in to hold it. I don't think most folks butter the dome bricks because you really don't want a mortar joint on the inside (bricks are flush) so I think its more stuffing the mortar in the outside seams. I am sure others will respond

[ThinCrust99]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I am using an old miter saw with a garden sprayer. Does anyone know anywhere that it can be bought local?? Like Lowes/Depot?

[ThinCrust99]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I spent this hot muggy weekend, cutting and installing the floor and soldier course. I had an issue with the mortar stiffening up to quickly on Sunday so I had to switch to making small batches. I ended up throwing out one batch that I could not get to hydrate back to useable. I will try to get a tleast one course done a night this week while I am home.

Special thanks to Greg for sending me his indespensable tool. I should be useing it soon.

Chris

[Tscarborough]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

Unlike portland cement mortars, you can not rehydrate silacious mortars. mix what you can use in the time you have only.

[ThinCrust99]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I ordered a 6" duratech plate for my 36" oven (as advised in the plans) but I am seeing a lot of 8" for 36" oven on this site. I'm sure 6" is "enough" but I want the best/most functional. Should I switch to 8"? Thanks

Chris

[tfasz]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I went with a 6" and have been happy so far. The draw has been great even for my low temp curing fires. I think the 8" would look too big on most 36" ovens since it is a 10" exterior diameter. But depends a bit on what look you are going for.

Looking good - good luck with the rest of the project.

[ThinCrust99]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

Ok issue #1. If you look at the pictures earlier in my thread you will notice that the mortar looks nice and dark. The reason is because when I first got my brick Kit from Forno Bravo I cut a corner off the mortar bag and mixed up a small batch in a bucket. I found out later that there is actually a second bag with a lighter colored mortar inside that is obviously needed. The first ten bricks I set have never really dried, the joints are soft to the touch. Yesterday I removed that mortar and redid it. It was super sturdy structurally and I was able to just redo the joints so i think it will be fine. Did I miss somewhere in the instructions about the forno bravo mortar in the kit needing mixed.

I also had an issue with a later batch lumping up and I had to discard it. That being said does anyone know if similar mortar can be purchased at Home depot/Lowes if I should run out?

#2. I am on the fifith course and I am getting gaps at the bottom of the bricks. I ruined about three bricks yesterday trying to figure out a way to taper them somehow to fit and I just couldn't get it. Any ideas on what to do? If you have gaps like these should they be filled from the inside of the oven or are they ok to leave the way they are.

[Bodman]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

The V gap Problem is much explained here

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/8/sm...en-6738-5.html

[leckig]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

here is a solution for the V gaps - just ignore them. You will simply use more mortar to accommodate these spaces.
Of course, if you have too much time, you can trim every brick to size, I am happy I did not - the oven looks good inside the way it is.

[fxpose]

Re: Starting a 36" Pompeii oven...help plz

I am on the fifith course and I am getting gaps at the bottom of the bricks. I ruined about three bricks yesterday trying to figure out a way to taper them somehow to fit and I just couldn't get it. Any ideas on what to do? If you have gaps like these should they be filled from the inside of the oven or are they ok to leave the way they are.

I filled my gaps from the inside, usually on the very next morning, after the course(s) had time to set. It's a lot easier to use your finger to apply and force mortar into these gaps than to use a trowel. Sponge clean excess mortar immediately.
I used homebrew mortar throughout.

I started tapering the sides once when these V gaps started getting larger at the upper courses. These tapers need not be precise, I pretty much eye-balled each cut. Just keep filling the gaps with mortar.

George