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New build - 1.2M dome

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  • SableSprings
    replied
    Looking Good Jonv! This would be a time to consider putting a moisture barrier between the concrete top slab and the insulation board. Since you're ultimately going to build a roofed structure over the oven, then it won't be an issue in the future...but if you won't have that spiffy tent covering it all winter...a piece of plastic would be inexpensive insurance again extra drying/curing time in the spring. Lots of discussion on the forum about how quickly that insulation board will suck up water if given the chance...

    RE: your post #11, I had used the form tension wires for an "odd shape free form" form up in Canada at Hihium Lake doing the top platform base for a CasaG90 install...don't know if it was my posts you remembered, but glad it was something you were able to use...

    RE: your post #13, My oven cooking floor is just the standard firebrick thickness (2.5"-3") and has performed well for me and my bread bakes. I do 15-20 loaves per firing (usually in batches of 5-10). Each batch of baguettes takes about 15 minutes to finish baking at 575-585F.

    p.s. Agrasyuk - buttering the CMU blocks with mortar vs filling alternate cores...definitely more time/work mortaring than dry stacking (IMHO), can't imagine with the top slab weight and rebar tie-ins that there is any strength/mechanical advantage to the "buttering" method over the dry stack & core fill (IMHO). One thing that does come up however is that by mortaring the CMUs individually in place you do add some height (and length) to the stack--1/4" per mortar join. Measure a block-multiply that by # blocks of oven stand, plan on that length/height...butter the CMUs and the structure length/height will be longer & higher than you planned...just a thought

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  • staestc
    replied
    That really is a hell of nice tent! Build is coming along nicely. Now is where it gets fun!

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  • jonv
    replied
    Spent quite a while this week reviewing dimensions and getting things more or less straight in my head, adjusting a few things from the plan when we laid everything out and could see what it looked like.

    The hearth has dried out nicely. Had a bit of fun removing the forms underneath, and a smack on the head from one of the supports, but if all looks ok. Today I marked out and cut the insulation layer - 2 layers of 2" calsil. I had no idea what that stuff would be like. Easy to cut but otherwise a horrible material.

    I cut the boards so the joints overlapped and it's roughly in the right position - will adjust tomorrow when the light is better. I decided to allow about 4.5" of board outside of where the firebricks will be. I didn't like the idea of the bricks sitting right on the edge of the board. The insulation blanket will fill that space later.

    Now I can start to lay out the hearth bricks and mark for cutting and I'll feel like I'm finally building this thing

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    That has to be one of the fanciest construction tent I have seen on the forum. Even better than some finished structures.....,LOL.

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  • jonv
    replied
    The party tent should solve the problem of building in the British Autumn weather

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  • agrasyuk
    replied
    that is a great build. I am also interested to see how your grill /smoker comes out.

    would anyone like to chime in on dry-stacked CMU blocks vs. buttered with mortar?

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  • jonv
    replied
    As it happens, my brother is currently attending a course in India - when he returns next spring he should be bearing a genuine tandoor liner

    It sounds like a long wait, but the oven will take a while and then there is the smoker and bbq too, so I doubt I will be complaining about the timing!

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  • staestc
    replied
    Originally posted by jonv View Post
    Thanks for the link.

    For a long time I had planned for a 42" model. I decided to go large in case I want the extra floor space for a big bake. I agonised over the size for a long time, and perhaps I have it wrong, but time will tell... For the tandoor I'm thinking of buying a clay liner and simply providing a suitable enclosure; I've seen them made from a couple of flower pots, but the proper liner has just the right shape.
    I too am anxious to see the tandoor! And will of course love watching the rest of the build Stand looks great.

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  • jonv
    replied
    Been sorting through a mountain of firebricks

    I have nine at 12" x 12" x 3" which should cover most of the floor, and some 12" x 6" x 3" for the cuts around the edges.

    I have some flats for the sides of the arches and for constructing the vent, but the rest are arch bricks. 3"/2.5" side arch bricks are pretty close to the dome radius I'm aiming for so should let me have pretty thin mortar joints, just a little bigger on the outside; 3"/2" arch bricks should be good for the inner arch; and I have some 3"/2.25" for the outer arch/vent area. The latter are not quite such a good fit, but still better than making it from flats.

    With 4.5" thick dome, or more if I add some muck on the outside, I am wondering whether I should have more than 3" on the base, especially for bread... any thoughts?

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  • jonv
    replied
    With help from friends, the slab has been poured

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  • jonv
    replied
    Filled the central void with concrete and rubble then framed up for the hearth and added some 1/2" rebar and 1/4" mesh. All ready for the big pour - on Monday, weather permitting - thankfully with some friends coming to lend a hand

    I added a couple of tension wires on each side to help prevent bowing of the frame - can't remember now which post I saw that on, but thanks for the idea whoever you were!

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  • jonv
    replied
    Long day today filling the cores. I seem to recall seeing that some folk don't fill all of the cores... which I suppose is fine. I decided to fill the lot, and soon wished I hadn't! At least I have a mixer for this - realised today that this is the first time I haven't mixed up my concrete/cement on a board

    Will fill the central space with more concrete and assorted rubble later...

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  • jonv
    replied
    That's interesting - I hadn't realised that such blocks were available. My local builders merchants only stock the basic blocks.

    I suppose I could simply have propped it until the concrete is poured, but we had some old angle iron free...

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  • david s
    replied
    That is the correct way to do it. In fact you can get knock out blocks, bond beam or lintel blocks which have such a channel already cast into the blocks Using these then allows the omission of the exposed angle iron. (This point is perhaps a consideration for the revision of the plans)

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  • crisp
    replied
    Nice work and a good start.

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