Sunset Pizza Oven

[Oceanrover]

Hello all,

I posted in introductions today and now posting my build progress here. Gained a tremendous amount of information looking thru the site the last month and now a proud member thanks again.

I started April 10, 2019 and so far I have the foundation, stand and hearth slab completed. Reinforced concrete top is 4"x65"w 78"D. This will be

an igloo oven build 38-42" depending on forum advise. Also going the 2" Foamglas and 1-1/2" Thermo 12 Gold for cook floor insulation, I have a local Distrbution International and ordered the foam and casil boards today for pick up tomorrow. I've already acquired 250 medium fire bricks.

Well it's a start and looking forward to the posting the progress.

[Oceanrover]

….Continued pics

[Brwilliams88]

Hey quick question. Saw you are also from cali and was wondering how much you got your foamglas and CalSil board for? I sent u a private message

[Brwilliams88]

Looks good

[Oceanrover]

Status update, Floor, Foamglas and Calsil cut. Indispensable Tool created but need advice on adding the clamp. Moving forward at a good pace, thank you for all the great advise thus far!

[JRPizza]

I started out using a clamp I got from Harbor Freight to hold bricks against my IT, but once I got the consistency of my mortar right (a little wet and sloppy) and my bricks just wiped with a wet sponge to change the color about 1/8 inch deep, I was able to just butter the bricks, press in place / hold for around a minute, then move to the next brick. Way faster than messing with clamping each brick in. You can see this worked even when the angle got steep and the mortar had to fight gravity. Having a clamp came in handy a few times, especially when I was working around my arch, but I was glad it was not integral to my IT and not in the way when I didn't need it.

[Oceanrover]

Thanks JR that makes sense, I was in the shop today looking at fabricating a separate attachment that would have a clamp. It's a great idea but it is relatively a new concept (I think). I'm more concerned with clean joints inside as the outside is relative, it will be covered and smooth. As Gulf says "more then one way to skin a squirrel" The radius tool I've made can fulfill my needs. Appreciate this forum for giving me the ideas for my creation of my IT tool. Thank you for your advice and your build has been helped me greatly.

[JRPizza]

I've seen at least one IT made with an integral clamp, but they look bulky and I am glad I didn't put in the effort to make one. You probably will want to make an extra narrow bracket for when you get to the upper rows as my bricks eventually got thinner than the bracket I started with. A pen/pencil/marker holder comes in very useful too.

[Oceanrover]

Yes I created a carpenter pencil / sharpie holder that's been very useful and will be as I move forward on the arch curve. I have a narrow bracket just need to weld the nut on it for use when I get to the small rows. Thanks!

[Oceanrover]

Floor done, and Soldier course cut at 20 deg. Time to start mixing my dry ingredients for my home brew. Still researching transition, lots of great info here.

[Oceanrover]

Two Questions: I am in the process of fabricating my arch form since we have a bit of inclement weather here Q-1 how my arch form will be 20"W x 12.5" H how do I determine depth of my form?

I was also thinking of cutting bricks for my 2nd course. Question should these bricks be tapered or just cut in half 4.5 x 4.5 and go on top of my soldier 1st course (soldiers are cut at 20 deg.). I've seen a lot on bevel and taper cuts but it seems like more work (cutting, jigs, etc.) then necessary if inside gaps are minimal and homebrew mortared on outside gaps are filled. Or does it get into excess mass? Please advise thanks!

[JRPizza]

I wanted my arch form wide enough to provide a stable base to build upon but not so wide that the bricks did not contact the front and rear part of the form. I think I was around 5-6". Whatever you do make sure that a level placed on the form shows good or your bricks will be tipped.
I beveled my bricks to limit the amount of mortar exposed to fire, and because I think it looked better. I think the mortar could eventually be degraded by constant exposure to direct flame, especially home brew (which I used), so my motto is whenever unsure just do the best you can. I think lots of builds were done with big inverted vee's so that can definately be done - hopefully those folks aren't picking pieces of mortar out of their pizza's

[Oceanrover]

Thanks JR. I made my Arch form yesterday its 20"x 12.5" x 4.5" but I can make it thicker if needed. Now I just need to figure out how to cut the taper in the bricks in a production method.

[JRPizza]

I was lucky in that my son has a 3D printer so I made a fixture that helped me cut the bricks to "similar" angles. I think having an exact angle is not as important as getting close, as when the gaps fill with mortar it all evens out.
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...412#post382412

[Oceanrover]

Thanks JR!

I just ran across this from Mr Chipster and looks to be a good idea for me moving forward.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/possible-new-idea-brick-cutting-table-16780.html