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MY 40inch CORNER BUILD

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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    And so that brings us up to last night which was Day 5 and our final during fire which would bring us up to pizza cooking temperatures

    i knew I had to let the dome clear to know I hit temps that seems to be the consensus form reading through other forums that you reached a full cure if and when it clears

    and we’ll into an hour of letting a fire build we began to see the roof of the dome clear the fire was burning hott

    we were seeing mid 5s at the very bottom to around 800 + at the very top


    and well it finally happened …….





    WE MADE PIZZA!!!!


    I cooked up some amazing garlic marinara sauce whipped up a couple batches of dough and we made our very first pizzas and boy did they cook quick !

    the oven worked tremendously and more on the smokeless aspect the oven was performing so well all you saw coming from the chimney was the heat waves this oven was on top of its game!

    We made two margharitas pies and one traditional plain

    just had some left overs writing this and I’m sad I cannot make more pizza tonight since I will be doing the shell this afternoon and letting it sit for another week before firing again

    idk if you will see in any of the photos but I wrapped my chimney in the towel I used as a pad for the tarp over it

    it worked well for a temporary “insulation”

    until I build the really chimney surround I am going to temporarily build a box to go around the chimeney and either use left over blanket insulation or fill with left over vermiculite until the new chimney surround is built prolly in a month or so




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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    No I know some people opt for a full 7 day cure but I believe that’s more geared towards the cast style ovens vs brick could be wrong but would make more sense

    I opted for

    200s
    300s
    400s
    500s
    and full light clear the dome which was around 600-800 degrees depending on where you shot the laser

    just wanted to throw that out there before continuing on

    I’d like to also say I’ve read a TON of posts of people ovens being very Smokey and that’s a good indicator that there’s still moisture trapped in the oven

    from the beginning right on through the end I cannot explain how impressed I was with the performance of this oven , unles so was Loading up more wood or messing with the fire this oven would produce no smoke at all

    you could stand with your face in the archway and you’d get no smoke in your eyes you would smell it it just was awesome to observe

    I also would do my best to bring heat up slow not once did I build some massive fire in the beginning to get it up to temp quick I always took my time over the course of an hour to slowly bring it up to heat sort of like stretching out the muscles of the oven before a race

    besides the tail end of day 5s cure where I went for clearing the dome the fires remained smaller and the oven could build to heat before the first hour was even over even for day 5 by the end of hour 1 the average readings were well into the 600s and the dome had begun clearing which was really cool


    so I’d assume because of my extended wait time to fire the oven (over 6 weeks ) and being that 4 of those weeks that oven was sitting in over 12 hours of sunlight - I literally get sun in my backyard from around 8 am until it sets which around this time was after 9 pm the oven really had time to dry out

    I know others have waited the minimum time like 7 days or so to begin their fires so I can see why there’d be a big moisture difference

    who knows just throwing out my observations and experience so far with this thing



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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    Day 4 was an unfortunate day , on day 2 I had uncovered the oven to light and I got a call saying rain was on the way so it was covered and we just began the fires later in the night when the rain had passed

    on day 4 I was about 20 minutes into lighting when the fire was put out and the oven covered as a rain came in luckily oven was fine and did not get wet I was then able to secure the tarp so I could run the fire for a couple hours as the rain quickly passed but was on it ways back and it was a random spurt here and there of very light rain so I kept it covered and ran the fire for about 2.5 hours hitting the temperatures required for that day into the 500s

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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    Day 3 went well bringing it into the 400s i opted to roast our first meal in it and we cooked up a nice turkey breast

    it came out amazing looking forward to doing more roasts in the future

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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    So of course I must have jinxed myself last week when saying how beautiful this week was going to be and how well it was going to help with my curing fires besically everyday from Monday until last night even we had random spouts of rain so I had to continue to cover and uncover it luckily I had the tarp in place from the week prior so it was easy and it stayed nice and dry

    although I did have a few very very close calls

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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    Day 2 went well with a smaller fire pit of wood I worked to build up a fire slowly bringing it all up to the desired temp and then spreading out the footprint of the fire so it was closer to the sides of the dome in order for the lower brick to soak up as much heat as required for the days cure

    not sure if it’s talked about but for the curing fires I opted to go the bring it up slow and hold method and hold the fires at heat for extended durations of time seemed to worked really well for me

    must say it was awesome watching the chimney perform as well as it did even with the lower heat smokier fires or even when I’d have to close out the fire cause it spiked too high the chimney would suck all the smoke up and out with little to no escaping

    really the only times smoke would come out of the archway would be from wind blowing into the archway from across the property
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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    Alrighty we are back!!

    we had a successful week of curing fires!

    we began Sunday evening with a charcoal bed that I slowly grew throughout the night keeping the whole dome in the low 200s for about 6 hours then in the final two I did bring it up slightly with two small chunks of wood

    following day we did a small fire keeping it in the high 2s mid to low 3s
    (obviously the top of the dome was always going to be hotter then the rest )

    I did my best during the week to take readings from every course and make sure they were all brought up uniformly

    example: if day 2 fire the top was at 280 then on day 3 the top would be between 350-380 day 4 430-480 etc

    I don’t see a lot of info on the amount of charcoal so I started small and slowly built it up watching the temperatures by end of the 8 hours I had used an entire 15lb bag of briquettes and let them continue to burn down for remainder of night after the final bit of wood I tossed on burned off
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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    You can start the curing fires using briquettes (insulated dome recommended). This gets you about 200 F with no flame plus you can do a dutch oven if so inclined. Remember go slow, one extra piece of wood will spike the temp very quickly. This is where we see builders get impatient go too hot, too fast and crack their ovens. The turtle wins the race in curing.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 07-19-2023, 04:06 PM.

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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    I have seen several oven where the flames will leave the dome and head up the chimney. I also start my fires under my chimney to get a good draft going then push the stack in.
    Kaowool makes a moldable high temp caulk (2000F plus).
    Thankyou for the info on the sealant I will look into that

    also I do plan on insulating the flue in the long term once the outer chimney walls are built

    I assume loose fill vermiculite will suffice as a good insulator at min a 1/2 thick around then encapsulated by whatever outer brick I choose to run with

    for the curing fires I will use whatever left over blanket I may have plus some standard insulation to keep it from potentially cracking

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I have seen several oven where the flames will leave the dome and head up the chimney. I also start my fires under my chimney to get a good draft going then push the stack in.
    Kaowool makes a moldable high temp caulk (2000F plus).

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    My major question as of now is what sealant are we using these days for the air gap around the upper archway

    will a silicone based or latest based “flexible” sealant holdup to the higher temps of the pizza oven? And be a better insulator or

    should I go with the higher 2000 degree resistant fire block resistant sealant that cures with heat to a rock hard finish (not sure if this defeats the purpose

    I do plan on using the ceramic rope as a backer rod for whatever sealant I go with

    I see rutland makes a 800f continous “flexible” sealant

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  • Mr.Pizza3
    replied
    Originally posted by david s View Post

    Here's the video on uninsulated flue tiles. Yes they will crack if they are not insulated and they receive direct flame impingement.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxOkwQyY-2w
    I can see that being a big factor with direct overhead chimneys on a typical home fire place

    I presume I will be okay for the beginnings of the curing fires but any left over insulation I may have I’ll wrap it with

    I know I have some fiber glass insulation I can atleast use for the curing fires

    I will plan on filling the space between the glue and the outer chimney (when built) with loose fill vermiculite

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  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    I don't recall if you are bricking around the clay liner or not. There have been some cracking of "uninsulated clay liners, there a video poking around the blog somewhere of showing how uninsulated liners crack. IMHO, the clay liner needs some they of insulation to temper the temp differential. Gulf brick around his chimney and filled the gap between the brick and clay with vcrete.
    Here's the video on uninsulated flue tiles. Yes they will crack if they are not insulated and they receive direct flame impingement.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxOkwQyY-2w

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Any auto store will carry this (see picture) and cheap (IE Grainger Less than $10). embed a 1/2" fnpt pvc bushing in the stucco with a wire mesh for extra strength(see Gulf's build) Click image for larger version  Name:	breather vent.jpg Views:	0 Size:	25.9 KB ID:	454579
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    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 07-18-2023, 12:27 PM.

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  • Giovanni Rossi
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.Pizza3 View Post

    quick question ,

    is it necessary to do all the layers for the fires or just need to lay down one or two ? Not sure if I need to go all out like I was planning on and have all three layers down and wired in and ready for it’s render once the last curing fire occcurs
    I'm out working on my pavilion and noticed your questions. Here's some quick notes. Hopefully others will reply in more detail. I don't think there's a hard guideline. I did small fires with just two layers of blanket loosely wrapped on the dome bc I wanted to dry the masonry a little bf covering it for winter. The goal is to minimized the temp differential between the inside and outside of the bricks to decrease the chance of cracking from expansion. The insulation slows heat loss from the outside and allows the dome to expand more uniformly.

    Originally posted by Mr.Pizza3 View Post
    after my last curing fire how long do I need to wait to fire up the oven again once I put on my outer render?

    a week? More? less?
    Again, others have more experience, but it depends. If you are adding more vcrete for added insulation or to give you a more stable substrate for your final render, that's added water that needs removed. I did a full drying sequence with just 4" of blanket in place. After adding about 1.5" of pericrete over my blanket I waited 6 days before doing a moderate fire for a day and then took it to full cooking temp the next day. My last concrete render was 1/2-3/4" without any perlite. I waited 3 days bf doing a full firing.

    If your final render is waterproof, I'd wait for 2-3 full firings bf applying it.

    Originally posted by Mr.Pizza3 View Post
    where are we getting the pressure cap that goes at the top of the render and does anyone have a forum or photos they can show of how they went about putting in the pressure cap?
    I got mine from Amazon but some guys say they are available in auto parts stores. Look at my build. I did something similar to what others had done.
    Last edited by Giovanni Rossi; 07-19-2023, 05:11 AM.

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