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6x6 green-treated landscape timbers, inexpensive and very easy to work with.
Thank you for your reply. After determining rough cost to terrace a 20' x20' area it seems like I can save a substantial amount of money by using cement building blocks instead. Wall height will be no more than 40" at its highest point. But as you mentioned, timbers are so much easier to work with and go up fast.
Hope the rest of your project is progressing smoothly.
OK, I have attached a rough plan for the next steps. I have the FB board now, bricks and saw later this week. Understanding all the detailed prep work needed... I love it. Just need more time.
Dan,
This is a GREAT drawing you've posted! I saw it a few days ago and it was awesome but I did not see the small print (I suspect others did not either) and you had a few questions written on the PDF plan. Here are some answers and I hope others will check it out too:
Silicon "dots" under the FB board to hold it in place while you set your floor? Not necessary. You will built up weight so fast that the FB board wont budge.
The herringbone floor: If you are level, and you have really flat bricks, some have not used ANY sand/fireclay mix. If in doubt, use sand/fireclay AND water to make a slurry, lay down 4-5 floor bricks, and tamp with level. You need the water in the mix to make it "set" a little. And keep on moving and tamping until the whole floor is done. I found I worried too much about brick corners that were not PERFECTLY level and flat and it did not matter in end. So don't go crazy over the floor. Still, flatter is better.
Expansion joint at where the soldiers meet the floor? Go with 1/8" (not 1/16")
DO NOT mortar the soldiers to the FB board. Yes the mortar in between the joints (which are always fairly wide at the back of the soldier course) do attach to the FB board. But there is no need (and actually some potential little peril) to mortaring the soldiers bottoms. If a soldier or 2 dips or rises a 1/8- or 1/4" because the FB board is off, your 1st course mortar will fix that. If you do it though, it's probably OK but not standard practice so avoid it.
I say cut your soldier angle to make the dome correct independent of the arch wall height. It probably will not "line up with the entry arch" and that's fine. Mine doesn't line up with my 3 high brick vent walls and they don't need to be.
Whew, great questions Dan, keep them coming. You'll have a terrific oven.
Cheers, Dino
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
hey Dan,
beautiful yard and a great job, Im green with envy right now. Keep up the great work and welcome to the world of WFO's (Wood Fired Ovens) When you get to the vent/chimney you may just have to think it out as you go.... I had the same problem, it all went together fine and works even better. Seeing what you have done already, I dont forsee you having any problems.
Good Luck
Mark
Thanks Dino and Mark! A few more questions... I have a ten inch HF saw. What's the best blade type? Also, to create the fireclay, I see that many have cut the dome bricks and collected the slurry. Are the first courses after the soldiers 1/2 bricks? Should I cut them exactly in half? Say 50 bricks to get enough clay for the floor? Also, should I use HeatStop for the mortar of the soldiers and subsequent courses? Sorry for so many questions... really want to get started this weekend.
Thank you!
Wow! How beautiful it already is! I'm a bit envious, I must say!
I love the curve of the landing and how the whole thing is built into the hill.
I love your whole yard!
cecelia
Hey Dan,
Yes, your 1st and 2nd row (at least) will be the bricks cut exactly in half. I'm pretty sure my first 3 courses where also cut in half before I went to 3rds. Cutting those in half should give you enough fire clay for setting the floor. The brick "muck" from cutting is GREAT for setting the herringbone floor. I would cut the herringbone floor and cut about 22 bricks in half for the 1st row and I bet you'll have enough fire clay in the water for setting the floor.
Have a good weekend, hope lots of progress happens! -Dino
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
Hi Mitch,
Welcome and good luck. I bought the HF chop saw and got the segmented diamond blade( i was looking for the number and couldnt find it), I also bought the HF brick and block cutter. My intention was to use the chop saw for most all the dome cutting. I kept my bricks in a water bucket and replaced them as I cut them, Really helps keep the mess down.
I ended up using the brick and block cutter for almost all the cutting, That little tool was great and would cut the bricks neatly in half. It's 19.99 and part # 96319
Hope all goes well with your build. Be patient and enjoy the experience.
I am rethinking my entry... I think a parallel enrty would be easier than the tapered. IT t hurts my head to think how I will have to match angles when I start the arches. What's the benefit to the tapered entry?
I really like the price of the HF diamond blade especially with their coupons they email. BUT I've got an OSH a few blocks away and after I needed a new blade asap, I bought their $45 Norton brand diamond, and it lasts twice as long. So anytime I got a coupon from them I always picked up that blade. Went thru 4 of them on my oven build. Dino
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
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