Originally posted by Tscarborough
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Re: bricks
thanks for that at least that info was helpfull !!! so keep my joints tight i might look at cutting all my bricks .. i do have 460 of them ha
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Re: bricks
Forget the plastic film, just cover it with 40mm of water but dont mix it in. Stays useablle for months, just tip the water of the top when needed.Originally posted by brickie in oz View PostI use a wet pre mixed gloop that is water soluble that I get from John.
It is air set and sets in about 20 minutes, if you have to readjust the bricks you have to pry them apart as it grabs in no time flat.
Once the tub is opened you have to cover the remaining gloop in the tub with a plastic film to keep it from drying.
If it gets too firm you can slacken it up with a drop of water.
Ive done my oven at home, my mini oven and the one I have just completed for a customer with the stuff.
It sets as hard as a rock and even harder once fired, Ive had no problems with it.
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Re: bricks
I use a wet pre mixed gloop that is water soluble that I get from John.
It is air set and sets in about 20 minutes, if you have to readjust the bricks you have to pry them apart as it grabs in no time flat.
Once the tub is opened you have to cover the remaining gloop in the tub with a plastic film to keep it from drying.
If it gets too firm you can slacken it up with a drop of water.
Ive done my oven at home, my mini oven and the one I have just completed for a customer with the stuff.
It sets as hard as a rock and even harder once fired, Ive had no problems with it.
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Re: bricks
Be that as it may, most wet refractories are designed for other uses than home built ovens. For those purposes they excel, but for the particular demands of a home built oven they are seldom the best choice. Since you have been in the business for 30 years you should also know that there is a great variety of specialized products designed for specific purposes, and commercial kiln refractory is not suitable or required for the tolerances of a home built oven.
As for the various homebrew formulas, they would certainly not be appropriate for a commercial kiln, but they are forgiving enough to be suitable for a home oven and are much cheaper and easier to work with.
I used wet refractory for my oven, but then, my oven is not a Pompeii, and the specifications fell within the tolerances of my design.
In short, for the average person building their own oven to FB specifications, homebrew will always work, as will commercial dry mix refractories, while wet mix MAY work, but then they may not.
I will continue to advise on the side of caution (but I only have 20 years in the trade).
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Re: bricks
You blokes must have some junk refractories in "the states"Originally posted by Tscarborough View PostThe problem with wet refractory cement is twofold. First, and not really that important is that it is water soluble. The interior of you oven should never get wet so this isn't a big deal. The important limitation of wet refractory cement is that is designed for joints less than 1/8". It has very fine aggregate and being wet it shrinks a lot, thus it cracks badly at anything over 1/8" in thickness. It also has very little in the way of adhesive properties.
We have a product called Tufset Super, used to be called Super 3000, and it sticks like anything. I am fairly sure it was an american product initially.1650f rated, and can, in a pinch, be used in a thicker joint. Failing that, we use a 1350c "fine" grade refractory castable as a mortar. I have been in the refractory business 30 years, and never had an issue with our recommendations. Too many people are claiming that their own homebrews are superior, but I think they are kidding themselves into believing that just because they may have saved a little bit of money equates to a better product. Thats my .2c worth.
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Re: bricks
Hammer and bolster.Originally posted by smallholder123 View Postthoughts anyone about a nice piece of kit available in the uk
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Re: bricks
The problem with wet refractory cement is twofold. First, and not really that important is that it is water soluble. The interior of you oven should never get wet so this isn't a big deal. The important limitation of wet refractory cement is that is designed for joints less than 1/8". It has very fine aggregate and being wet it shrinks a lot, thus it cracks badly at anything over 1/8" in thickness. It also has very little in the way of adhesive properties.
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Re: wet morte
Gees John, its like a dry wine or dry beer...........Originally posted by Johnny the oven man View PostHow can a premix NOT be wet?
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Re: bricks
If its dry it hasnt been mixed, water is part of a mix for final application. No water means it still isnt mixed yet.Originally posted by dmun View PostWhen it's dry. Even if it were the right stuff, why pay refractory prices for water?
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Re: bricks
When it's dry. Even if it were the right stuff, why pay refractory prices for water?How can a premix NOT be wet?
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Re: wet morte
How can a premix NOT be wet?Originally posted by smallholder123 View PostCement - KLW.A.S.C - Fire Cement - Heat resistant to 1600C
this is what i bought from kiln linings to set my dome bricks ..i am a little worried as in the FB manual it says not to use a wet premix HELP PLEASE whats the right thing to do is this the same thing
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Re: wet morte
Cement - KLW.A.S.C - Fire Cement - Heat resistant to 1600C
this is what i bought from kiln linings to set my dome bricks ..i am a little worried as in the FB manual it says not to use a wet premix HELP PLEASE whats the right thing to do is this the same thing
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Re: bricks
couldent get the company to admit they were not first class bricks but after a threat of a small claims court they have decided to send me a extra 100 bricks that gives me 460 full bricks and i hope one kick ass oven and indoor bbq but what to cut them with the wet cutter are to ?????? and the tile saws too little ???? thoughts anyone about a nice piece of kit available in the uk
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Re: bricks
The firebricks I can get here are nearly all perfect, but mind you, we are closer to China so less chipping in transport.
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