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Hi all from Aussie

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    I know of a few ppl who have sandstone around their ovens and it works fine, just make sure you seal it.

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  • Aussie Pete
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Rob, i have gone the soft way, i've made a refractory base, (about 2-3"), then i've layed down crushed granite, then 3" fire bricks....
    If i had of read more before starting my project, i probably would of use some kind of insulating blocks then fire bricks, but this way was in magazine that i've got. My father in-law has built one the same way, except, he didn't use granite or fire bricks...and his oven is a pearler!!. gets too bloody hot i reckon.
    I'm hoping the crushed granite will help with some kind of insulation (probably not..)

    Oh yeh...your right about the rain....IT WONT BLOODY STOP...aarrgghghh..

    Am planning on tiling the top of my base tomorrow though...stuff the rain!

    hey Al, how does sandstone hold up against heat...will they be ok on the top of the bench around the oven....(please yes,please say yes,please say yes).....YEH, i said it 3 times, it must be ok.

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  • robertjusher
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    I've seen your build Dave.
    I will be happy if mine turns out as well.
    Your build



    So far this build has taught me-

    -Pouring a slab is hard work
    -Block work is not easy as it looks
    -Filling blocks does your back in
    -Everything takes longer then you think
    -Every thing will cost more then you think
    -If you think you can get that last mix done before it rains, you can't
    -It will rain on your day you planned to build.
    -Rendering is a bitch !
    -The more you read and the more advice you get the more you notice everyone has different idea's and theory's ( often a good thing)

    If hebel works for you Dave then hebel it is for me too. Kinda becouse I have already got it. Enough for my oven was just under $50. No mixing, mess etc. Might be going against some advice but it has worked for enough people to convence me.
    What did you use to fix your hebel in place.

    Aussie Pete- What are you using for under floor insulation?
    Rob

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Gudday
    I used Hebel as my underhearth insulation as it was at the right price...Free
    Does it work ...yep it does and the hearth is staight and true still more than a year on. But its cheaper to use pearlite...no not then 10ltr bags from bunnings. You can get a 100ltr (1m2) bag from a Hydroponics supplier for under $40. Theres a hydropnics place in Capalaba called "Oasis"
    Sorry I'm not that computer savvy so no fancy link to my build,if you look in the Aussie section of the forum its called Cobbler daves build.
    Whilst I admire the dedication and skill of many of the builds you see in the forum...sorry not for me. I'm" Masonary Inpaired" to start with, run my own business so the simple methods worked for me. Ply form, brick bulster cuts, even got a retangular entrance cause I could pull of an arch till later.
    Got a great oven for my efforts though... I recon it doesnt look to bad and it cooks even better. The inportant things to give it a go and enjoy the journey

    Regards Dave

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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    I have just finished doing a layer of vermicrete. I discovered last year that a 50/50 mix of vermiculite and perlite makes a way better mix that either of them alone. I can't explain why, but it makes a far more plastic brew that is not as crumbly as the perlite or vermiculite alone. I stick rigidly to a recipe of vermiculite/perlite 10 parts, to water 3 parts, although this may depend on the grade of stuff you get. The fine vermiculite needs more water. If you overdo the water it seems to wash the cement off the grains of perlite and vermiculite.Water pooling at the bottom of your barrow or bucket is an indication of too much water.

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  • robertjusher
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Thanks for the tip.
    Is vermicrete just a mix containing portland cement?
    I understand vermicrete is the normal insulation but it just kinda like light airy cement???
    I figured that hebel will do the same job but as you said, dry flat and for me cheaper.

    Kinda kills the easy simple hebel idea I had. Maybe insulateing board from total refractory over the hebel is just as good. I really want to keep the flat surface to start brick laying on.
    More planning
    Damm rain will never stop
    Last edited by robertjusher; 01-27-2012, 09:33 PM.

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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Originally posted by robertjusher View Post
    Has anyone used hebal for underfloor insulation?
    Thats my current plan. Seems easy cheap way of doing it. 600x200x75 is $4.50 at Masters.
    Just set in place and lay floor bricks right over the top of it. I got a piece and drove my work ute over it, It did crack a bit on the ends but held up with out crushing.

    I have not thought about rising damp. Too late for me to worry now!
    I have used Hebel a couple of times between supporting slab and oven floor. One problem is that if placing wet mortar on top of it, then it will suck the water out of the mortar so fast that it makes it difficult to keep the mortar plastic. It does give you a nice flat surface to work over though, so you really don't need mortar. It is about a third the density of standard concrete so isn't a bad insulator, but I don't think it"s as good as vermicrete. Another advantage over vermicrete is that it is dry, so you don't have the extra problem of eliminating the water from Hebel. It is also way more expensive than vermicrete. I used the Hebel Power Panel ie 5mm steel reinforcing rods cast into the middle of the panel, in the floor of my mobile. I was try to get a fairly strong floor that was also an insulator. It has cracked a fair bit, but because it's in a steel cradle all is still ok. I don't know if it cracked because of the weight, the heat, or the big speed bump I hit at speed when I forgot I was towing an oven.
    That is way cheaper than I could get it. Don't forget that Hebel is made from Portland cement and your floor will be pretty hot. If it were me I'd put a 1" layer of vermicrete between the hebel and the floor bricks to take the sting out of it before it hits the Hebel.
    Last edited by david s; 01-28-2012, 12:28 AM. Reason: typos again

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Originally posted by david s View Post
    Touche, Al
    Thats funny.... at least we agree on one thing....
    Last edited by brickie in oz; 01-27-2012, 09:05 PM.

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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Originally posted by brickie in oz View Post
    No probs Dave, you like putting me in my place so I reciprocate.
    Touche, Al

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  • robertjusher
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Has anyone used hebal for underfloor insulation?
    Thats my current plan. Seems easy cheap way of doing it. 600x200x75 is $4.50 at Masters.
    Just set in place and lay floor bricks right over the top of it. I got a piece and drove my work ute over it, It did crack a bit on the ends but held up with out crushing.

    I have not thought about rising damp. Too late for me to worry now!

    Leave a comment:


  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    No probs Dave, you like putting me in my place so I reciprocate.

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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    OK thanks, seems you have to use Silasec and GP portland cement or similar product. Thanks for the correction,Al

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    Originally posted by Aussie Pete View Post
    on the bondcrete, but unfortunately i'm passed that stage of build,
    Just as well because Bondcrete isnt a water proofer, its nothing more than PVA glue with a high price tag.
    Bondcrete FAQs

    Leave a comment:


  • Aussie Pete
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    My father in-law is helping me with the build, and he already has the blanket and 7 bags of the refractory cement, so.....its a pretty cheap option for me the moment.
    If i was to build another oven, i think i would go the full brick type, something like "Brickie in Oz's" oven, (i think its the gargoyle that makes it the best oven ever).
    Rob, your base is lookin fine from here.
    Dave..thanks for the advice on the bondcrete, but unfortunately i'm passed that stage of build, i just hope i dont have too much probs with that side of it.
    I wonder if theres anything you can paint on the besser blocks for rising damp?. I'm going to render the whole base anyway.
    Yeehaa...rain has stopped, i'm off to cut some tiles

    Leave a comment:


  • david s
    replied
    Re: Hi all from Aussie

    "but I have seen brick ovens from amazing master cut jobs to almost no cutting and lots of mortar jobs and they all cook well."

    An italian friend of mine built a brick oven using half, solid red bricks, cut with a bolster (rough edges out). He used wooden wedges under each brick on the outside, placing each brick against a sand castle in the middle. Went through heaps of homebrew mortar, but it was an easy way to build and far less labour than cutting each brick. Apart from not taking my advice about insulating under the floor, which he had to later retrofit, he's ended up with a pretty good workable oven.

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