Re: Hi all from Aussie
The only way you could retain the dry V'lite would be to have verticle walls surrounding the dome.
A wet mix will soon dry out. Use Vermicrete, and then when you have dried it all out, use an acrylic render as the final coat.
Yes, there are different grades of V'lite, but its just different sizing.
X
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
ok..i'm a little stuck as to what i should do for insulation on top of the dome.
I will be using refractory mortar for the actual dome(approx. 2-3"), then will be laying atleast 2-3" of ceramic fibre blanket, then i will mesh that to keep it all in nicely, then...i'm stuck. A few on here have layed vermicrete then a mortar type top coat. I'm interested in laying dry vermiculite over the blanket (as to minimise water content in the mix's), because the oven will be an igloo style, will i need to make some sort of cage then mesh it in to trap the vermiculite in, or is there another way that i have missed.
is this method going to be ok, do i have the process correct.
i would rather not make a cage, if i can help it....a lot of mucking around.
being a novice, i'm open to slander....so hit me!!
Something else i just thought of.....is there different types of vemiculite, or is it all good.Last edited by Aussie Pete; 02-06-2012, 04:58 AM.
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
Rob I have a rectangle entrance to my oven and 2 pieces non gal angle iron as the support. I was very aware that rust could be a problem and fitted both pieces so that they were not trapped by any brickwork with the hope that they could be tapped out and replaced in the future. 15 odd months on yes there is surface rust (more on the inner piece) its not major and I usually spray with mums cooking spray oil when I clean the oven cold.Originally posted by robertjusher View PostI think you are game tileing then building the oven. I would wreck the tiles for sure if I tried that. I made a few batchs of home brew mortar today. Interesting stuff to work with. Seems and looks like mud to use. I think I got it in the gaps ok. Gave the outer surfaceI have done so far a light coat over the whole thing. Almost at once fine cracks as it dried. I will recoat the whole dome with 10mm or so when I finish. It does set hard fairly quickly and I am sureafter full curing it will be very solid. It's good to finally start a row of bricks with wedges. Kinda looks like what I was expecting.
Question for the wise.
The steel angle used in the plans, Will it rust away in the future? WIll it mater if it does. Going to be hard to replace it if it does.
ROb
With the sand mold you have the advantage of being able to remove it as the mortar sets and get in the oven to clean up and tidy any gapes. I have no experience with air set mortar ...but if its no good for gapes over 2 to 3 mmm go the home brew it will
Regards Dave
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
Pics tomorrow. got dark on me too soon,
Another question.
I have been using ryebond (airset) to set my bricks and then using homebrew mortar 3,1,1,1, mix to fill in the gaps and apply a top render.
Now I am nearing the top courses the angles are getting tighter and gaps bigger due to the dome closeing in. The air set is really only good for 2-3mm gaps so can I stop using it and just go to homebrew or should I use a refractory product.
I have made a sand form and the last few courses will just be sat on the form and mortar almost just poured in.
ANy thoughts?
Rob
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
ok....finally glue'd down tiles, still needs a bit of cleaning up, but you get the picture.
Rains been good lately....(staying away), which has helped.
Back to work this week, then should be able to grout next weekend, then start the building. Told ya's it was a slow build..
Does anyone know anything about polishing sandstone tiles, they're pretty good, just thought i would try and clean them up before i seal.
i will lay down some cardboard to protect tiles.Last edited by Aussie Pete; 02-05-2012, 02:27 AM.
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
HI
I am using it in the top of the oven entry.
I have not used gal. I know gal will do you in.
I think that once the rest of the dome is in place the steel will not matter too much. Looking at it again today it seems like it will not be needed after all is set and dry. Should be self suporting...
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
Sorry, if it is only as a lintel for the base, then use gal. I thought you were talking about using it in the oven entry.
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
Isnt it only used as a support in the base?
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
Better not to use gal, it is highly toxic when the gal is heated up, bad fumes.
Also, because steel has much higher thermal conductivity it will get hotter faster than the surrounding refractory leading to faster expansion. Thiis needs to be considered. It is wise to leave a small gap in the refractory so the steel can expand freely.Last edited by david s; 02-04-2012, 01:00 PM.
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
Not if its Gal..Originally posted by robertjusher View PostThe steel angle used in the plans, Will it rust away in the future?
ROb
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
HI
Total refractory has them. I have not seen them in the flesh but from pictures they seem like short bits of heavy duty steel wool.
Refractory Depot, Inc. - the Refractory Broker for specialty monolithics, refractories and brick products.
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
I've asked this somewhere else, but i'll ask here on my thread too, i might add some stainless needles into the refractory mortar (for added strength, and minimise cracks), does anyone know where i can get them from,
are they just stainless nails?.
Are they really necesssary for the piece of mind?
how much do you add to the mix?
Is there a thread on here somewhere that goes into a bit more detail about using them.
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
I think you are game tileing then building the oven. I would wreck the tiles for sure if I tried that. I made a few batchs of home brew mortar today. Interesting stuff to work with. Seems and looks like mud to use. I think I got it in the gaps ok. Gave the outer surfaceI have done so far a light coat over the whole thing. Almost at once fine cracks as it dried. I will recoat the whole dome with 10mm or so when I finish. It does set hard fairly quickly and I am sureafter full curing it will be very solid. It's good to finally start a row of bricks with wedges. Kinda looks like what I was expecting.
Question for the wise.
The steel angle used in the plans, Will it rust away in the future? WIll it mater if it does. Going to be hard to replace it if it does.
ROb
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Re: Hi all from Aussie
g'day all again, well...i've done some more cutting of the sandstone tiles on the top of the bench. haven't glue'd yet, tomorrow hopefully.
looking ok for now, sorry still no pics, was getting dark by the time i finished, will do tomorrow.
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