Oven Build in SC

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Well after a few days of rain and other priorities (Honeydew) I got to layout the dome and arch to kinda figure what things are going to look like. I also set the first course surrounding the floor. I have a last brick to cut for the course but darkness prevailed and will get to that this weekend. I'm thinking of trimming a half inch off the previous two blocks so I won't have too thin of a brick.
I do have a question for anybody, my IT tool sits approx. 1 1/4 inch above the floor, so when vertical I have that extra height to the dome. At what point (or course) do I start to reduce the IT tool length? Would you do it on the last few courses? I would like to follow the plans for a 21" internal height.
I guess from here out it all upward!!!!

[Laku]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Ideally the joint is in the middle of the bricks above and below it. But I wouldn't consider it that critical as long as the joints are staggered.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Oven Build in SC

I do not think there are any required min distances. Stacking of a couple vertical joints in your build won't kill ya just something to watch out for. I think the concept is to stagger the joints to minimize a path for a crack to travel in a straight line. Yes you will get a crack or two. As far as starting from where to where, I think that is more up to you. I actually started opposite of the arch and worked both ways toward the arch. That way I could make my width adjustments in say the last few bricks to avoid potato chips and to make corrections that would not be seen from the archway. Basically hiding the boo boos.

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Thanks Russell for the info and tips. I have a list of "DO NOT" and these will be added. On your "Potato Chip" and "vertical joints aligning" comment, do you know if there is a minimum distance of the joints alignment?, I guess I mean how close can the joints be before it is detrimental ..i.e. 1/2", 1" , more? I realize ideally, is to have the joints in the center of the brick of the previous course but from reading about everybody's and anybody's build, it will eventually happen if not monitored.
Also, would you recommend starting each course opposite the entrance and work my way around both sides to the arch or should I start at one side of the arch and work my way around to the other side of the arch?
I will also be putting some tape over the expansion gap to keep that mortar out. Thanks for that tip, it wasn't planned.

I really appreciate your input, and your thread of your build, I have referred to it quite often.


Steve

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Videts,

Looking good, I used one layer of corrugated cardboard around the perimeter between the dome and floor which was roughly and 1/8" but the space in reality ended up being 3/16" to 1/4" all said and done. Nothing on my end by the arch/landing. Just were the first course (sailor by my terms but I know this is a topic of wide discussion on what it is called). One thing I did do as I started up the dome was to mask off the gap with cardboard with some good old duct tape, This kept 99% of the mortar from getting into the gap, even though I had carboard there. Just an extra precaution and cheap. The fun begins, take you time. Watch out for vertical joints lining up, and a tip Tscar gave me early in my build. Adjust the brick widths to avoid "potato chip" narrow tie-in bricks. Last part of my rambling. I focus on place my best bricks, vertical staggers, etc where it could be seen by looking through your entry arch. most of my make-ups were closer to the tie-ins near the arch.

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Well after about five days of rain I finally finished the oven floor!! And got it outlined with the cardboard spacer. My cardboard I have is approx. 1/8" thick, is that what everybody uses for the thermal expansion of the floor or do I need to double it or get something thicker?? Also does the cardboard need to be a spacer around the entrance arch/landing also? Wasn't sure if there would be that much thermal expansion in that area that required it. Anybody have any thoughts on this?
Also even though I have the entrance way cut I am still contemplating a thermal break in the entrance floor. I have a piece of SS tube but I think the one I have at 1/4"(actually 0.230") wall thickness would probably still conduct heat due to this. I'm looking for any opinions on whether to leave it as is or put the break in. HELP!!
I couldn't resist testing the floor with a peel I have in the house, and I'm happy to say it glided quite nicely. It caught a few edges but nothing a few taps of the mallet didn't fix. This peel is aluminum and has a particularly narrow edge so all in all I was happy the way it worked. A wooden one should work beautifully!
I've also cut the first course of bricks for the OD of the floor (Am I right at guessing this is considered the first course?) And I should be getting them in place this week.
My template with the IT tool is also complete; It was a solid piece so I sliced it up for easy removal when the dome is complete.
As I read on someone's post previously- "It's time to go vertical!!".

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Thanks Russ, I'm on the hunt now for it. When shopping for supplies originally, I was looking for something that displayed the grit but could not find anything. Maybe I was looking for the wrong thing. I try looking for the quartz sand. Thanks again

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Videt,

Not sure how much sand you bought, but is you are using homebrew for your dome mortar, consider quartz sand, much finer and at least in UT available at big box stores like HD or Lowes, runs about $9 per 100 lb bag (the one on the right in the pic), i went though 2 bags on my build.

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Note to one's self: Screen sand before use!! Found lots of little pebbles in my sand which made laying the floor bricks a little difficult. But after laying a couple bricks and not being able to level them I started peaking underneath to find the little pebbles. Not a big issue, just a PITA. Anyway I got about 3/4th of the floor laid before it was to dark and hope to get it done by tomorrow night. Getting midway to the center I found out my IFB layer was not as level as I once thought and had to use a little more sand/fireclay mixture then I expected to keep the floor level and even. I'm tamping them down pretty well so I don't believe this will be an issue.
Anyone have any thoughts about the amount of sand/fireclay underneath the dome floor? If this would be a concern I'd rather tackle it now then when I'm farther along. Well, off to buy a screen for the sand!!

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Thanks All!!
You guys are awesome! I hadn't put to much thought into the archway other than knowing I was going with a semi-circular pattern and with all the information just displayed on the subject I feel overwhelmed with the knowledge and experience from all of you. Thanks for everything. This puts me way ahead of the game instead of sitting there staring in bewilderment, wondering what I was going to do next.
My intention will be to have something similar to Russell's design where the protrusion from the dome will support the rear of the chimney/vent. I'm halfway finished setting the floor and should finish it tonight. Then to the first course that is level with the floor. From there the second course and I believe from what I've been reading and viewing that it's best to build up the inner archway. And I understand the IT will dictate the final taper angles for the arch.
After reading all these posts and viewing of the pics, the build process is starting to appear ALOT clearer and would not have been as fun without all that have helped and enjoy helping others. This is an amazing forum and you all are a rare breed!!!!! Sorry for the rambling, just happy to be apart of this!! Can?t wait to get at it after work!!

[Amac]

Re: Oven Build in SC

I should have use 3/4 brick

You can get 2 arch bricks bigger (slightly) than 1/2 size bricks from 1 brick using the method illustrated in the pic. The "protrusion" size in this case is limited to about 1.5 " - the top right and bottom left horizontal parts. Another trick I didn't think of until I had all the inner arch bricks cut.
I did depart from the script a bit on the inner arch to allow me to cut all the arch bricks identically. It did save me figuring out complex differences between left and right sides of the arch but at the expense of a dome slightly taller than a true hemisphere.
Good luck with the arch - any of the builds mentioned who pioneered this approach are worth studying.
I have a week or so now away from internet, so looking forward to huge progress when I get back - on all the ongoing builds

[texman]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Thanks Russell. That is exactly what i was trying to show and say. I should have use 3/4 brick but i guess i was sick that day that we covered that in class.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Hey this is Russell,

My arch bricks were cut from full length (9") to about 7" long so the arch protruded out more. Here are some pics of the template I made and used for the arch bricks used in the taper arch. The final taper angles are fine tuned by the IT. Hopes this helps

[texman]

Re: Oven Build in SC

The protrusion depends on your build and vent design. Look at mine compared to Russell. Russell has the arch protruding so it can support the rear of the chimney as mine was short and didn't leave room for support and required more work on the vent. (wish i would have made the arch protrude more.) A larger protrusion will require more than a half brick (normal firebrick size) I believe Russell had some larger brick, but mine were standard. I just used a 1/2 brick.Are you planning a semi-circular arch like Giannis? Karangi dude, Sharkey, Amac, and DJ's are all semi-circle. Before i steer you wrong, let's make sure that is the design we are talking about.
Tracy

[videts38]

Re: Oven Build in SC

Texman,
When you mention "how much I want the inner arch to protrude" are you saying I will need bricks that are longer than 4.5" (half brick) for the archway? Are you aware if there is an advantage to using a full brick or a longer brick to have it protrude more or would that be unnecessary?