light weight and mobile

[michaelcisneros]

building our first wfo. building it on a stand to move to a trailer. oven as light as possible. here are a list of questions if you have any advise please share
how thick does a concrete base needs to be?
how thick does a insulating layer need to be (using concrete and expanded clay mix (because i have tons of this stuff))?
laying splits as hearth over sand...will that work? i guess the splits will be loose.
MOST IMPORTANTLY, WE ARE SETTING THE DOME WITH THE BRICKS FACING INWARD. LEAVING THE THICKNESS AT 2.5INCH THICK...will the dome hold up or collapse? dome height will be 7" soldiers plus 11"dome for 18" total.
Round 40" inside diameter for deck/hearth
over dome, insulating blanket then stucco
here is a pic of the mock build while we wait for welder to fabricate the stand

[david s]

Re: light weight and mobile

If you intend on putting this oven on a trailer, then you may have some issues. Placing the bricks sailor fashion reduces thickness of your dome and decreases the bonding holding bricks together. You may find the thing will want to rattle to bits as you travel over bumps and vibrations. I suggest you insulate under the floor with cal sil board rather than sand.Loose floor bricks are also likely to rattle around a fair bit.
In attempting to reduce weight for my mobile, I tried to make the supporting slab both structural and insulating by using 75mm (3"thick) AAC. The product here is called Hebel and their Power panel has some 4mm reinforcing rods in the centre which results in it being both strong and insulating. I would not use it again because it has cracked badly (see pic) either from excess weight or heat. However it still holds together and fires fine so I won't demolish it just yet.
When designing an oven for a trailer it is difficult to make it both strong and light.

[michaelcisneros]

Re: light weight and mobile

thank you pizzaiolo,nice oven!

[oblertone]

Re: light weight and mobile

My mobile build was designed around a tray. I used a 1" (25mm) layer of vermiculite board, topped by a 2" (50mm) layer of heater blocks from night storage heaters. At full cooking temp the underside directly under the dome gets to about 80C which I consider acceptable given the limitations of my construction method.

Mine was built to be moveable by hand, not subject to the pounding a road trailer might deliver; even so I used a 4.5" soldier course and not a full brick.