Buy or build cost comparisons?

[eyspy]

In the initial planning stages of a WFO for our barn. I am time rich, money poor, and after looking on this fantastic forum have been more than inspired to build my own oven. After looking at the prices of a Forno Bravo oven, then downloading the plane for the Pompei and realising the effort involved, I was wondering if anyone has done any cost comparisons?
I will build my own base (no problems there), but was thinking if I have to source all my own fire bricks, heat blankets ETC.... how cost effective is this compared to buying a kit (everything supplied) then still having to put it all together.

For me any saving is worth it, and there is also the satisfaction of saying "I built it myself". looking forward to hearing some views.

[Toomulla]

Depends on so many variables you just have to do your own sums I am in Townsville NQ and in my case the cost of a FB type kit was about the same as my final cost in bricks. Am I happy with the result in brick yes I always wanted to build my own even when I have David building and supplying precast in the local area.

[UtahBeehiver]

If you are patience, look around and scounge, similar to what you did with the timbers, you can drastically cut down the cost of a DIY oven. If you need it now, then you will pay for it. Only about 15% of my build came from big box stores, IE HomeDepot or in your case Bunnings. Look at your version of Craiglists or classifieds and if that is the route you go make yourself a list of items you need and start the search.Some Aussie builders use Hebel/Ytong structural blocks instead of CMUs, Some are casting ovens vs bricks but some have been able to find surplus bricks at a reasonable price. I made several adjustments to my build based on the materials I was able to procure. The DIY journey is worth the effort but you have to have time and patient.

[david s]

If you are time rich but money poor a cob oven may suit you well. If you build a decent base first and a cob oven on top of it, even if it lasts only 5 years it's easy to do and easy to tear down. The experience you get from building it and cooking in it will give you plenty of incentive to build another oven. It would also look great in a barn.

[eyspy]

Don't think I will do the Cob. I have the theory "do it right, do it once". I think I will just scrounge till I get the parts for nix. Already have sourced 300 plus fire bricks for FREE, don't know whether they are soft, hard or other ? How can I tell ? I have just been told they are fire bricks and that is all the 'giver' knows.

[cobblerdave]

G'day
If you have firebricks you have one of the most expensive bits covered.
Firebricks are solids, no holes or frogs. They should be heavy.
Usually a light straw to nearly white in colour.
Regardless of depth or if they are tapered they are designed to be layed without a mortar. So you will find they 115 mm wide and 230 mm long (twice the width) there's a good chance there are a firebrick. If they were say 115 mm wide and 220mm long they are a house brick the missing 10 mm in length to a account for a 10 mm mortar gape to enable a course of brick to go around a corner.
Sorry can't be any more precise over the Internet.
Regards dave

[eyspy]

G'day
If you have firebricks you have one of the most expensive bits covered.
Firebricks are solids, no holes or frogs. They should be heavy.
Usually a light straw to nearly white in colour.
Regardless of depth or if they are tapered they are designed to be layed without a mortar. So you will find they 115 mm wide and 230 mm long (twice the width) there's a good chance there are a firebrick. If they were say 115 mm wide and 220mm long they are a house brick the missing 10 mm in length to a account for a 10 mm mortar gape to enable a course of brick to go around a corner.
Sorry can't be any more precise over the Internet.
Regards dave

Thanks for that, very helpful. Pissing down here in SA at the moment otherwise I would go out in the shed and measure. They are a straw colour, and heavier than a normal brick. Solid with no holes. Look like they have been had cast as they are not perfectly formed.

[eyspy]

As u can c from the photo, the brick has a slight curve to it (they all do) the measurements are written on the bench top? Not sure now if fire brick or not?

[UtahBeehiver]

It has the appearance of fire brick, the curve is actually a benefit for the dome portion of the build. Not sure if you can make it work for the floor or the archway though. It also appears to be wire cut but can't tell for sure from pic. The price is certainly right , especially for the southern hemi.

[eyspy]

Thanks Russel. Might borrow a mates wet diamond brick saw for the floor so I can get them all square to fit.

[cobblerdave]

G'day
I'm scratching my head, why the curves? Then it hit me. The curve doesn't have to be deliberate! They are probably secounds!
The curve would stop them being used in a boiler but for a home potter or oven maker there still valuable!
I paid $3.30 a brick and brought 175.... Biggest expense in my build. Like Russel I'm a bit of a re purposer so the rest was free or nearly so.
Last bricks I saw brought in Brisbane was $ 4.40 ea, so you've got expensive bit covered.
You could possible sell of the remaining bricks at the end of the build as well. You'll need things like a peel and beer to operate the oven with.
Regards dave

[eyspy]

G'day
I'm scratching my head, why the curves? Then it hit me. The curve doesn't have to be deliberate! They are probably secounds!
The curve would stop them being used in a boiler but for a home potter or oven maker there still valuable!
I paid $3.30 a brick and brought 175.... Biggest expense in my build. Like Russel I'm a bit of a re purposer so the rest was free or nearly so.
Last bricks I saw brought in Brisbane was $ 4.40 ea, so you've got expensive bit covered.
You could possible sell of the remaining bricks at the end of the build as well. You'll need things like a peel and beer to operate the oven with.
Regards dave

Could be right there Dave? I thought either seconds or as said earlier had been cut with wire? Either way, the farmer who farms the land around me is giving them to me for FREE (as many as I need).
Good payment for all the sheep I have rescued over the years .
I would not sell the extras as it's not the done thing around here. I would not profit from his generosity. Just been out in the barn now contemplating the build. Think the first thing is to move the fire ring to just outside the barn (could be permanent if it works where I put it, save me making flue ETC... and the WBO will probably get a good work out every Saturday night after the kids footy and netball, which I am thinking will warm the barn just nicely, and the fire pit will then be in the open so I can star gaze as I fall back in my chair from too many beers )

Thinking of a corner build now where the Blasting sign is. Need to source some Besser Blocks then will dig some small footings. Dry lay them and fill every 2nd or 3rd row with reg and concrete. Have a few ton of rubble and old broken bricks laying around with I will use to fill the cavity of the base. Solves 2 problems 1. gets rid of unwanted rubble laying around 2. Give a good solid base to lay the top slab without too much form work.

Thats the first step then will work on the next....

[cobblerdave]

G'day
Sounds like a good plan,doing a footing and filling especially being on sand like you are.
The Forno plans call up a bullet proof stand designed to survive earthquakes and frost heave etc. You can use a smaller size in Bessa brick like the 100 mm ones.
Think outside the square also I know of an oven built on a cut down old iron tank. Rubble filled and old iron bed re enforced concrete slab top. Looks very nice.
If you do go the rubble filled please don't forget the moisture barrier, it's a must.
You might live on sandy soil that drys out fast but an oven isn't sand and you have to protect it from ground moisture.
Regards dave

[UtahBeehiver]

It is possible the the arch bricks were made for a specific application. Most all of my bricks in my oven were tapered one way or another and there were some arched ones just like yours but I did not take any of them.. They were made for an open hearth steel furnace. But as said, this is one of the biggest expense for you Southern Hemi bros. I would keep the eyes peeled for some square edge bricks for the floor. Hand cutting these bricks for the floor will not be easy task to get a good fit and the floor is what sees the heaviest use,ie peel loading and unloading.

[Gulf]

If you don't find another choice, don't get "hung up" on straight lines . The curved brick will still work for the floor. They just need to be laid in an arc. You will have to skew the arc of the pattern open just enough to make it work. Otherwise each row will try to get into a tighter circle. Ash will quickly fill in the spaces.