I have some questions for the any of you masons out there who have made concrete countertops. I have to put a new surface on an old, outdoor counter that is 15 feet long and has a large sink at one end. It is currently covered with large, ugly porcelain tiles and leaks like a sieve. Since it's builder failed to slant the top at all, water pools on it and soaks through the grout into the cabinet below. I want to tear all that off and replace it with a homemade concrete countertop with a slight slope to get the water to flow off. I should mention that I am in Mesa, Arizona and this counter is on the south side of the house and gets a LOT of sun, so it will get pretty hot in the summertime.
Can I pour one, very long countertop or must it be divided into segments? It will be cast in place and have plenty of rebar. I'm wondering just how much movement will take place from heat. Any movement around the sink could be a problem.
What would be a good underlayment to keep any water out of the cabinet? Would roofing paper or composition roofing work?
Rather than buying the rather expensive countertop mix from Sakrete, I am wonder it I could use regular concrete made with small aggregate but with the addition of some "Rapid Set, Concrete Pharmacy Flow Control Additive" which is supposed to "increase strength and fluidity and reduce shrinkage." I have poured many slabs over the years and they are always very strong with virtually no cracks, so if I use the additive, minimal water and pack the material tightly, would that be good enough? I will probably also add a bit of colorant to tint the material. I'm going for a 2" thickness.
If this one works out, I plan to put concrete countertops on several more cabinets that I am going to build for my outdoor kitchen.
Thanks to all for your input.
Russ
Can I pour one, very long countertop or must it be divided into segments? It will be cast in place and have plenty of rebar. I'm wondering just how much movement will take place from heat. Any movement around the sink could be a problem.
What would be a good underlayment to keep any water out of the cabinet? Would roofing paper or composition roofing work?
Rather than buying the rather expensive countertop mix from Sakrete, I am wonder it I could use regular concrete made with small aggregate but with the addition of some "Rapid Set, Concrete Pharmacy Flow Control Additive" which is supposed to "increase strength and fluidity and reduce shrinkage." I have poured many slabs over the years and they are always very strong with virtually no cracks, so if I use the additive, minimal water and pack the material tightly, would that be good enough? I will probably also add a bit of colorant to tint the material. I'm going for a 2" thickness.
If this one works out, I plan to put concrete countertops on several more cabinets that I am going to build for my outdoor kitchen.
Thanks to all for your input.
Russ
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