Originally posted by Unofornaio
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So far, I?ve found the best method is to lightly spray the brick bed, using a small spray bottle, quickly dunk a DRY brick into a pail of water ? just in and out ? and thinly butter all four sides (two on the bed and two on the brick being placed). This gives me enough time to quickly rub or tap the brick into position before it sets up, which is usually within a minute or two. While it?s setting up, I have to clean up the inside face immediately, or risk having to scrape off dry mortar.
I?ve tried soaking the bricks, and they take days to go off thoroughly ? I knocked one out once accidentally, and although dry around the perimeter of the mortar joint, it was like plasticine in the middle, and this was two full days after laying it! So every time I cut another course of tapers with the wet saw, I leave the bricks for at least two days to dry out. Too wet bricks also seem to cause the mortar to go powdery in time, which frankly scares me. Hopefully it?s only the outside edge.
My brickie showed me how he does it, and he had a different approach. He didn?t wet the bricks at all, but placed the mortar as he would a conventional brick wall ? very thickly and just on the bed and the ?butt? face of the brick. Then he pounded hell out of it to reduce the mortar thickness to that required. Fine until some previously laid bricks started popping out due to the tapers! They have set up well though, and the mortar remained workable for far longer.
All very different from Dave?s mortar, which sounds much simpler for the novice. But it still comes back to experimenting to find that ?one best way?.
I hope to have mastered the process by the last ring of the dome!
Cheers, Paul.





The heat stop I was using had to be shipped (crazy expensive) and I find the two pretty similar. In fact, the Forno flavor allowed me to pull my shims quicker. The lime does add a workability factor, but I never seen that as an issue (until you clean the tools).
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