New Modular Corner Build

[Chach]

Start at the 45 degree corner and fill in the gap. you are trying to March to the 45 when you should establish your 45 and work your way out.

Ricky

[Pizzarotic]

Trying to figure out how to make this work, but I can definitely use some help. Thanks ahead.

If you cut half the angle on each ends of the blocks they will match together perfectly..

You don't need angle iron support under the opening. The top slab is more than adequate over that distance.

[Giovanni Rossi]

Could you just finish the end with half blocks and return on the 45 like Russell's picture in post #7?

[njforno]

thank you. Here is a picture. I will have angle irons spanning the middle opening above the 4th row.

[Chach]

Can you sketch how you want your structure to look? This way we can see and try and give some input.


Ricky

[njforno]

I think I have found some foamglas, am in touch with distribution international thanks for the suggestion.

I am having an issue on the corner of the hearth stand. I need to make this turn, looks like a 45 degree but it's probably not exact. Is it ok to cut a triangular piece for the opening on the ground in picture 1? If so, how would I go about flattening out the corner overhang seen in picture 3? I searched and found something like i drew in picture 4. Trying to figure out how to make this work, but I can definitely use some help. Thanks ahead.

[Chach]

Yes as Giovanni stated, it is a different product than the Styrofoam sheets at home depot. It is a glass cellular product and Distribution International is one of the best places to get it from.

Ricky

[Giovanni Rossi]

Different product. Foamglas board is a bit tough to source in the U.S. and is more available in Europe. It is more of a commercial specialty product for insulating pipe in industrial applications. The board fell out of favor with the construction industry due to cost. Most on the Forum have been able to get the board from Distribution International. I contacted the company through their site just yesterday and am waiting for a response. They show the actual Corning Foamglas product as well as their own version of the boards.

[njforno]

I like the extra board idea better than the vermicrete- Is Foamglas the same as the pink board insulation you can get at home depot? Or would i need to source the actual Foamglas product somewhere?

[Chach]

Sure you certainly can do that with the insulation but keep in mind 4" of vermicrete equals 2" of calsil board so 2" of vermicrete is equal to 1" calsil board. As far as the return in R value not sure there will be much there but 2" of calsil is the minimum insulation recommended under the cooking floor. Also vermicrete needs to be pretty dry before you start to build on top so you don't trap the moisture in. It may look dry but it retains a lot of moisture and will need to be expelled. I'd personally either forget about the vermicrete and add another inch of calsil board or better yet put down 1 1/2" of foamglas because it repells water and will keep your calsil dry and still acts as an insulation and gives you nore R value. Or you can just use the 2" of board you have and move on.

Ricky

[njforno]

that looks very nice. i have another question about the hearth depth, and vermicrete. The oven I am buying comes with ceramic insulation board that goes under the oven, on top of the hearth. I read that 4" of vermicrete are recommended on top of the concrete hearth. If I am planning to use the ceramic board, but would like some extra insulation, can I use 2" of vermicrete, with the Ceramic insulating board on top of that? As for the hearth itself, 3" or 4"?

[UtahBeehiver]

Cutting the block to minimize the joint is your best option. CMUs are relatively easy to cut with a brick saw or even a hand held grinder with a diamond blade. Mono lintel pours works well and also ties in the hearth to the structure as well.

[njforno]

thank you- I plan to bend the rebar coming out of the block to tie it into the hearth rebar. This week i will be getting the rest of the block, stacking and filling, and hopefully will have the rebar and form done for the hearth. Pool equipment is accessible, but yes it is close.

[Chach]

I don't think there is anything wrong if you pour the cells first with rebar and then tie the structural slab rebar to the rebar coming out of the cells. You can also bend longer pieces of rebar coming out of the cells to tie into the structural slab. If you do a monolithic pour that's great but you can pour it seperate and just make sure to tie it in to the rebar so it won't be able to shift.

Worried though about your access to the pool equipment.

Ricky

[Pizzarotic]

As long as you are core filling then the concrete is creating a monolithic structure of the block work and all the forces are compression. Generally, block home construction gets the outer blocks core filled without reo, there is some reo used but this is to tie the slab to the roof trusses. Add some reo if you like or have some available just not strictly necessary in this application.