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  • david s
    replied
    You can use a 100% acrylic render watered down 20% so you can paint it on. Be careful some renders are marked acrylic but are really only "acrylic modified cement renders" (read the fine print) The 100% acrylic comes wet in a bucket, not dry in a bag. It's also way more expensive than dry cement renders.

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  • Steady
    replied
    I used Bondall Silasec but need to do something else. When my oven is in use some very vine cracks open up in the outside render, I am thinking about going over it again with a flexible film that will stretch an bridge them.

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  • timechanter
    replied
    I've seen a few threads where a watered down acrylic render is used to water proof. I was thinking of doing that. Open for suggestions.

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  • Steady
    replied
    What are you going to use for waterproofing timechanter?

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  • timechanter
    replied
    Grouting and last tiling completed. Until water proofing I am done. Oh and need to get a load of wood. Thanks one and all I love it.

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  • timechanter
    replied
    I fell into the common trap of getting the oven to usable completion. It's working great. So today I finally decided it was time to render over the perlcrete and the stand.

    Im just waiting on final side to dry for floating. But just an update photo. Probably a couple of weekends left to tile front landing, grout and finish shelving for wood. So close to actually done (well, until water proofing). Thanks all.

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  • fnbroken
    replied
    Originally posted by timechanter View Post
    fnbroken i picked mine up from Sydney Firebricks over a few trips (was in the area with work a few times). If you are getting a bunch of stuff and have the money together having them ship it to a Depo in Canberra is way cheaper than the fuel (they are far northern beaches, 3.75 hrs from Canberra )

    Ss needles for castable reinforcing came direct from Artec (with a tear inducing shipping price), and Powdered Clay from Fyshwick behind the petrol station just down from office works.
    Might need to catch up for a chin-wag....

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  • timechanter
    replied
    Drilling into the front was easier than I thought. Placed 10 tapcon screws around the perimeter.

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  • timechanter
    replied
    Hi Joe,

    Are you suggesting to place a layer of cardboard as a spacer between the front edge of the gallery and the hard render coat (i.e gallery then cardboard then mesh/render)? If so, what thickness of render do you think is necessary to avoid it being crushed/snapped on the leading edge by a misdirected roasting pan . I have a commercial PM100 render and 20kg of hydrated lime, I was expecting to add 1kg of lime to the 20kg render (not sure if thats enough/to-much to give the front some plasticity).

    I can always add 2cm of perlcrete and then 15mm render if thats useful, maybe even some high-temp silicon in the "cardboard" gap.

    I think I maybe confused/rambling here. Appreciate your thoughts.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    You can also form little more exact and stronger edge for the stucco at the opening by using by 1/4" mesh hardware cloth. Just tie it in with the chicken wire and the masonry screws. Leaving a slight reveal here will be a great recess for a storm door if your oven will be exposed to wind driven rain. One layer of cardboard can be used to form the gap that David mentioned in post #34.

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  • david s
    replied
    Yes, that should work. I cast my front decorative arch and embed some wire ties into the casting, but somemasonary screws should work as well.

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  • timechanter
    replied
    david s I'm having trouble with my front arch and believe I need to fasten the mesh to the front edge to make it work (perlcrete was a disaster on this edge due to movement of the mesh).

    The front is 30mm thick at its narrowest. How safe is it to drill into it and put a few masonary screw/nails in it?

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  • timechanter
    replied
    fnbroken i picked mine up from Sydney Firebricks over a few trips (was in the area with work a few times). If you are getting a bunch of stuff and have the money together having them ship it to a Depo in Canberra is way cheaper than the fuel (they are far northern beaches, 3.75 hrs from Canberra )

    Ss needles for castable reinforcing came direct from Artec (with a tear inducing shipping price), and Powdered Clay from Fyshwick behind the petrol station just down from office works.

    Leave a comment:


  • fnbroken
    replied
    nice work timechanter....where did you end up getting all your supplies? I figure im going to be making a trip to Sydney....

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  • timechanter
    replied
    Percrete render done 25mm. Man that took a long time and what a weird material to work with. Vertical edges were a drag.

    but it's down and first fire started. My plan is to slow build up temps this week (after gluing down the granite) and put a normal render with line on 15mm thick next Sunday.

    Is is this too soon for the hard shell ? Water prof will be a watered down acrylic render painted in in a month or so.

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