Fnbrokens Corner WFO in Canberra, Australia

[david s]

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And a scale drawing to make sure it actually fits...

You have a problem here if you build to this plan. The sides of the oven exterior are so close to the wall that you won't be able to access it properly at the base of the dome to finish it off well. It also leaves you with a pretty much useless space in the corner at the back. If you can leave a min of 100 mm between the exterior of the dome and the side walls you'll be glad you did by the time you get to do the last layer.

[JRPizza]

Greg, here is your hearth with the round parts of your oven. What were you thinking of having for minimum distance between the outside of your dome and the edges of the hearth at the rear (roughly 10 and 2 o'clock)? Let me know and I will fix the dome on the hearth and make a side view to show where the inner arch might go, unless you already have a distance for it, either from the rear of the oven or from the center point. I'll go back and read but don't remember seeing it.

[fnbroken]

lol...need to present the plans to the Finance Minister...so they cant be half baked!@!

Thanks for the feedback Russell, appreciated - I have been studying closely the inverted 'v' and the 'teardrop' and would really like to avoid them. A new wet saw here is anywhere from 800+ dollars, so not a cheap way to start... Hopefully by the time I get to this stage I have been able to source a cheap, or second hand ($600+), one - or an Australian forum member wouldn't mind loaning theirs out I realise I could get a a fair bit of my money back selling it at the completion of the build - but my wife knows I will probably keep it (like every other tool I have said I would sell).

Question: Where about's do I locate a weep hole - I have not come across this in a design so far? It is highly likely the WFO will be covered at some stage - just hard imagining how it might look at the moment. I was going to include a vent in the top of the dome like yours Russell - seems a pretty sensible idea (especially if the WFO sits idle for any period of time).

JR - thanks for putting some CAD sketches together for me - I have read your thread closely several times now and I think there will be a lot of similarities :/ appreciate your documentation of the build for me to leverage.

I almost started to put imperial measurements next to the metric ones to help everyone out - so confusing sometimes jumping back and forth - I just cant seem to think in fractions I will go back to the previous post and add them in.

Thanks for the comments

[JRPizza]

Greg, I agree with Russell - it's nice to see you are doing some serious planning before you start your build - nothing worse than pouring concrete and realizing you have your dimensions wrong.
Your drawing looks lots like what I did with my corner build. I was looking at your dimensions and between the metric and different brick size vs what I used it is taking me a little time to visualize the details of your oven. If I get a chance in the next day or two I'll try to put your dimensions into my cad program and see if I can give you a couple of sketches.

[Isivuba]

And a scale drawing to make sure it actually fits...

Also doing a corner oven but need to get my homework done before I start but yours looks awesome. Will be watching this thread.

[UtahBeehiver]

It nice to see someone do their homework and research. Looks like you know what you want and need.

A couple comments:
1. As you move up in the dome courses, unless you bevel the bricks, you will end up with what we call an "inverted V" joint. A grinder will work but it is a lot of work, messier, It the budget can swing it look for a used wet saw. Remember, you only need the adjust the inside the dome brick face bevel and taper, not the whole brick.

2. The first brick or partial brick of the internal arch lay flat the. The total inner arch height should be about 13.25" for a 42" oven which you show, but it would slightly more or less. Adjust the width so your arch height is where you need it, within reason ( I guess I can't remember a width rule). I think my inner arch worked out to be 13.125 x 20.25 for a 42" so don't feel you need to be spot on.

3. You might want to consider a weep hole in the hearth floor for any water that may migrate in.

[fnbroken]

And a scale drawing to make sure it actually fits...

[fnbroken]

WFO Specifications


Following a pretty lengthy review of a number of the builds here in the forum, FB plans as well as looking what materials are available in Australia (at a reasonable price), I have come up with the following key parameters as a guideline for my build based on recommended measurements for each:

• Corner style design
• Igloo pompeii oven @ 1100mm (42") where the wall width is approx:
  • 115mm (4.5") - using a standard 75mm firebrick
  • 50mm (2.0") - CalSil blanket
  • 105mm (4.0")- Vermicrete (10:1)
  • 25mm (1.0") - Render
  • 0mm - Waterproofing sealant
  • Total wall width ~ 300mm (12.0")
  • Total dome width ~ 1700mm (67.0")
• Inner arch: 500mm (20.0") by 345mm (13.5") ID (63% of dome radius) integrated with dome walls on a sailors course to maintain hemispherical top curve
• Outer arch:
  • 700mm (23.5") ID by 350mm (13.5") deep (1.5 bricks) providing a 100mm (4.0") reveal with a serpentine style construction
  • 200/250mm (8.0"/10.0") double wall stainless flu, 900mm (36") high with spark arrestor and rain cap
  • granite landing with ash chute
  • Thermal breaks: 50mm (2.0") stainless on landing as a plug to the ash chute, 12mm (0.5") recessed with ceramic rope on arch + sealant
  • Total oven depth ~ 1800mm (71.0")
• Stand:
  • Foundation: 2100x2100x150mm reinforced concrete (83.0"x83.0"x6.0")
  • Stand: 850mm (33.5") - 4.5 besser block course reinforced with rebar, rendered to match stenciled concrete
  • Hearth:
    • 2000x2000x120mm reinforced concrete with formed ash chute (79.0"x79.0"x4.5") and weep hole(s)
    • Builders plastic
    • 105mm - vermicrete (5:1) (4.0")
    • 50mm - CalSil board (2.0")
    • 75mm - firebrick (herringbone pattern) (3.0")
    • Total hearth height: 350mm (13.5")
    • Bolts concreted in for ash chute box
  • Total working surface height ~ 1200mm (47.0") (just above my elbow height)
• Final surround: polished concrete and/or granite tiles sloping away from oven

Notes:

• Will cut bricks to minimise mortar if I can get my hands on a 'cheapish' wet brick saw - otherwise just what I have to with a grinder
  • If I am any good at this by the time i get to the outer arch I will try to build one that gets wider by the front.
• Homebrew mortar to be used in construction
• Arches to be as hemispherical as possible
• Timeframe: 12-18 months. Hopefully enough time in there for me to lose my belly allowing for the obligatory 'legs out of oven' photo....lol
• Besser Block dimensions: 390x190x190mm (15.5"x7.5"x7.5")
• Firebrick dimensions: 230x115x75 (9.0"x4.5"x3.0")

Obviously stacks of credit goes to a number of builds these ideas have been taken from...you know who you are

Thanks in advance!

Greg

[Gulf]

........... An old school rotissary is two former sticks over on open fire. Wasteful of heat.................

But, very nice if a body is lazy and has the means available .

[fnbroken]

Looks tasty...

I will get the recipe translated... The old man does it old school Chinese style.. Takes 2 days ... Oven for 18 hours or something at a very low temp.

There are lots of examples in the forum - not many follow ups on how they went though. I think the slide in tray is the way to go.. That way if it doesn't work out its easy to remove

[cobblerdave]

G'day
Found a duck pick

[cobblerdave]

G'day Greg
Yep WFO with a hinge.... But cooks a shit pizza.
As a rotissary works well. An old school rotissary is two former sticks over on open fire. Wasteful of heat.
Put one of those in an inclosed space of heated brick with or without a fire or coals and it gets interesting.
Notice with your pic that the coals are placed away from the rotissary bar and not under it. Whatever is on the rotissary bar is being effected from the refected heat from the walls and roof and floor of that oven. Recon any drips will be falling on the floor and vaporizing and the smoke will be flavouring it.
One thing if you do build a rotissary to go in the oven build a heat shield in front of the motor. The food gets cooked by radiant heat, you don't want that motor cooked the same way.
Peking duck. Don't like duck myself but my wife and son love it. To do a duck I pour boiling hot water over the skin That and putting it in the fridge overnight will dry it out. Prick the skin so it releases the duck fats Plenty of honey and soy sauce and on to the rotissary. It's 130 C or 275 F for 2 to 3 hours.
As for 12 to 24 hours yes the Wood Fired Oven can do that but the temps under the 110c for that.
Regards dave

[fnbroken]

lol...the WFO dome on a hinge....

[cobblerdave]

G'day
Finally managed to load a pic

And a link http://aussiecue.dudeworld.com.au/ST...hp?topic=320.0

[fnbroken]

lol..search for rotisserie (duh) and there are plenty of examples...see pictures attached...

now then, what my FIL informed me when I showed him - something that was lost in translation (I dont speak a proper word of chinese and my wife translates) is the rod needs to be vertical....

This is so when the bird is blown up (like a bladder/air matress) it stays inflated.

I need to consider the height of the bird and the height of the inner arch/doorway...and do something like these examples where it is a slide in tray with a universal joint/cog assembly at the bottom which is attached to a shaft that extends out the door. The door would still require a 'hole' as a duck is slow baked for 24-48 hours....hmmm...

It didnt click, but when we went to a restaurant in Beijing we watched them putting a batch in the oven....it was a large rack of at least a hundred ducks being wheeled into the oven all hanging vertically....