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WFO CNR Build - Darwin

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  • terratree
    replied
    Cyclone was a fizzer Steady.

    The spotlight idea was excellent - got to around 60 deg c.

    2 weeks of that, and its time to slowly ramp up the curing.
    5 x heatbeads are in.

    Coupla pics

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  • Steady
    replied
    Did the cyclone hit your area, everyone ok?

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    With cyclone looming overhead, managed to get blanket and mesh screwed to IFB's.

    Some progress on the vent. Will no doubt have cracks where Ive fixed the outer arch to the inner (10 -2 oclock). RemInder of the outer arch is floating,

    Stuck a spotlight inside the dome, to prevent additional moisture ingress. I fear its way too wet to start curing.

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    Will be putting the FB blanket directly over the IFB's tomorrow, and then some fine aviary wire over that to hold it and the render in place. I think the smaller gauge wire was preferred over chook wire ?

    I have searched but cannot find the ratio/mix for the 1st/2nd/3rd coats of render/stucco, or is this store bought ? If so, what type ?

    Thanks

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    Thanks Guys,

    A bit of progress to show, outer arch complete.

    Vent is now 15.7 " x 6.5 " (400 x 165). Hope its not too big.

    Outer arch top keystones worked out well, meant i didnt have to add another brick here to initiate level.

    Is it ok to start curing this oven , given the amount of rain were likely to see ? It is under cover, but the humidity is thru the roof. Was thinking heat beads, wood is too wet anyway. I have no vermicrete to contend with, so only moisture held in the bricks..

    J
    Attached Files

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G’day
    The internal brick shell of my oven is pretty much isolated from the outside world and pretty much apart from heating/cooling only has to deal with gravity. The outer arch entrance on this oven is planned to be insulated from the oven entrance brick by high temp rope insulation. So it’s basically a single skinned structure. The loads aren’t going to be static. The stainless steel chimney is like a big lever and open to the next force that comes along ie. children.
    You build them they will climb them. Mines always been a kid magnet and still is. The kids next door have already snuck over and climbed mine!
    So if it’s external double skinned I say.
    regards Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    You do not need to buttress a full arch An arch with vertical side walls "and" a heavy chimney (ie brick, rock, etc) or ovens with full soldier courses are candidates for buttressing. I do not see a need to buttress yours.

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G’day
    Brick in Oz has a link to all manner of brickwork and buttressing.
    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...687#post212687
    Steve’s build has quite a discussion on buttressing which influenced me to buttress mine as my entrance is quite deep.
    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...i-at-bundaberg
    regards dave
    Last edited by cobblerdave; 12-11-2019, 03:09 AM. Reason: Add accurate links

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    Thanks Dave,

    I'd be happy with that sort of retention.

    Quick question - how does the attached pic look as far as the vent goes ? I see a lot of buttressing occurring and thought I wouldnt need it, if the 5 x outer arch bricks(on each side) overlapped onto the inner arch. Thought that would make it pretty strong, sharing the load.

    I think I still have ample heat break with 10 mm ceramic packing.

    Just havent located a build where the inner and outer arches were offset, like this. I dont see that as being an issue

    Any advice welcome.

    Thanks

    Jay

    Leave a comment:


  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G’day
    mine not the highest insulation and no thermal break but it will give you a fair idea. But any oven the golden rule is you can’t get more heat out than you put in.
    If you flash it up for 1 and 1/2, dry, it should get to usable pizza temps. Say this is Friday evening keep some small sticks burning in the corner keeps it on heat. Close it down. Insulated door. Next day you should still have 200C and be able to bake few bread and roast. A casserole in the afternoon maybe.
    So again if on the Friday you flash it up and burn for 2 1/2 to 3 hours so that heats really saturated right through the brick. Cook pizza that night next day you can cook some bread and roast and still have heat for roasts or casseroles Sunday. But if you do say a full oven of bread you’ll probably find you will not get another full oven of bread without an hour of extra wood burning. All depends on what you take out.
    You don’t have to get to pizza temps or fully saturate the oven every time either. A load of wood burns down in an hour. Scrape the coals to on side and cook “fire in oven” need some more heat a coupla thin sticks and the heat will be bouncing of those walls. Though in saying that you’ll probably find yourself shielding from the radiated heat more and aluminium foil is your friend.
    hope this helps
    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    Hey Dave, Thanks for the info Mate. That's what I'm planning on.

    Out of curiosity, how many days are you able to cook from a single fire ? Was trying to extend that time, with ample insulation.

    Was going over your build the other night , nice work!!

    Cheers

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G’day
    I had a go at the pearlite cement bit. It was a shit so I went a different path.
    Had 2 inches mostly of ceramic blanket. Added 3 inch’s of rockwool. A layer of chicken wire tightened by twisting the wire where it was baggy to get it tight and the shape even. Another loose layer of chicken wire over that for the render to key too. Worked a charm and trust me the render will go on easier then trying to handle handfuls of perlcrete.
    Good looking oven you’ve got there...
    regsrds Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    Cheers Russell.

    I decided to run with IFB's directly against the fire brick. B6 isolites are rated to 1400 Dec c I believe, so 3 inches of those, 1 inch of blanket (2 if I have any left), and then a render/stucco. Rendering directly on CF blanket will test me.

    I didn't cut any bevel on these, just cut the bottoms so they aligned with the ones beneath. Just to allow for a small amount of adhesive placed at the back of each brick. These cut fast, and there's no weight to them.

    Was concerned a little about the adhesive, but it's only there to hold the house of cards up, until the blanket goes on and there's no adhesive against the fire brick. It will obviously burn/melt.

    I hope this works, and hope I've avoided the whole vermicrete drying time and water/steam issue during curing.

    The blanket can be screwed directly to the IFB's.

    J

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    You already have the dome insulation with the Isolite Ceramic Fibre blanket. I sometimes interchange CaSi blanket with ceramic blanket. So based on what you have, ceramic blanket, 2" of 8-10 to 1 vcrete then render or stucco. 2-13 lb bags of vermiculite will not be enough though.I went through about 10 cubic feet.

    Leave a comment:


  • terratree
    replied
    Not planning on enclosing the dome Russell, as it's under some decent cover.

    I have CaSi board beneath the floor, and originally purchased isolite Ceramic fibre blanket. (25 x 600 x 7200) or 1" x 24" x 283" and 2 x 13lb bags of vermiculite for the dome. What form does CaSi come in to cover the dome ?

    In any case should I tidy the excess mortar up, before progressing?

    Thanks.

    J

    Leave a comment:

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