My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

[Sharkey]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Hi Todd
Roof looks great, I understand there is a product available that you spray on copper and turns it green like its been aged for years.

Urine will do it pretty much overnight

Seriously - this was the method recommended by Frank Loyd Wright for the best effect. Pee in a jar and paint it on.

[stonecutter]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Hi Todd
Roof looks great, I understand there is a product available that you spray on copper and turns it green like its been aged for years.

Yeah, it's called salt and vinegar.

[hodgey1]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Hi Todd
Roof looks great, I understand there is a product available that you spray on copper and turns it green like its been aged for years.

[boylanta]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Here's some updated pics of the roof.
Some have asked how the copper looks after a year.
It's been ~15 months since completing the project.

You can see a little bit of patina on the lower edges & some standing seams.
I anticipate it will look great after a few more years.
Thanks for looking!

Todd B.

[boylanta]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

John,
Good eyes, you're correct.
Just don't make the same mistake I made, use pencil instead of permanent marker...oh well.

Todd B.

I see that is making me feel much more confident. In the picture, I can even see the pencil mark you used on the 3rd brick from the right to cut that angle on the other half of that brick. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks so much.
John

[TxTanner]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Great job.....Your brick work looks super tight and I love the copper roof, pricey but a great design element. Your a good example of what can be achieved when a smart guy puts his brain and back into a project. Reach in that frig and have a cold one, you deserve it and it''ll be the best tasting one you've ever had.

Smart tip to all......Run power and place loaded refrigerator first.......Then proceed to build. Makes the whole process more fun.

[johnt]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

I see that is making me feel much more confident. In the picture, I can even see the pencil mark you used on the 3rd brick from the right to cut that angle on the other half of that brick. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks so much.
John

[boylanta]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

John,
Your exactly right.
That's pretty much how I did it.
You mentioned the 2 full bricks cut/angled into "slivers".
You are correct, I did this to get me to a normal/flat angle that I could continue the arch onto.
These 2 outside bricks were by far the trickiest, but this made the rest easier, in my opinion.

See attached pic 144.
This is a good shot of what you're describing.
Notice the outside "slivers" on each side to get back to a normal brick angle.
The next brick in from there is a full length normal beveled brick.
The next 2 from there on each side are the ones that are angled up into the vent.
I based this angle on the amount of area other experienced members said was required for the 8" vent pipe. Basically what I learned from them was to make this vent transition area as large as possible to ensure the 8" pipe drew well. I wanted to ensure I didn't get smoke on the outside of the oven.
Works great so far.

Todd B.

Thanks Todd, I think I finally understand now. To make sure though, can you confirm I'm right here? In your build, I see the outer arch made up of 4 full bricks on either side of the arch....of those 4 on each side, you cut the back half of them at a 45 deg angle to promote flow through the vent. All of these 8 bricks are joined to the inner arch with a vertical seem and they get their support because they are resting against the angled bricks at the top of the side walls. There are 5 half bricks making up the top of the outer arch which are similar to the inner arch, but have an additional angle to account for the wider outside of the outer arch. You put the two full brick "slivers" to make a flat start to what will be your anchor landing. The landing looks like two layers of full bricks in a square with the middle cut or ground out to allow the anchor plate to fit in. Actually the top layer looks like it might only be 1.25 in tall. I can't wait to get to that stage and that first curing fire is going to be a party.
Thanks,
John

[johnt]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Thanks Todd, I think I finally understand now. To make sure though, can you confirm I'm right here? In your build, I see the outer arch made up of 4 full bricks on either side of the arch....of those 4 on each side, you cut the back half of them at a 45 deg angle to promote flow through the vent. All of these 8 bricks are joined to the inner arch with a vertical seem and they get their support because they are resting against the angled bricks at the top of the side walls. There are 5 half bricks making up the top of the outer arch which are similar to the inner arch, but have an additional angle to account for the wider outside of the outer arch. You put the two full brick "slivers" to make a flat start to what will be your anchor landing. The landing looks like two layers of full bricks in a square with the middle cut or ground out to allow the anchor plate to fit in. Actually the top layer looks like it might only be 1.25 in tall. I can't wait to get to that stage and that first curing fire is going to be a party.
Thanks,
John

[boylanta]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

John,
See the attached pics.
The outer arch bricks connected to the inner arch.
These were def the most difficult bricks to cut in the whole project, but fortunately there aren't too many, so it goes fast.
What made it tricky in my instance was that the outside bricks of the outer arch connected to the inner arch to seal the vent area.
But to do this, I had to have already cut the bricks to have a slope up into the chimney.

See the attachments:
-pic 120: outer arch form for support
-pic 119: see the middle outer arch bricks, they're angled for a straight/clean mortar joint. Behind them is the chimney opening.
-pic 117: shows the shim method of cutting the long bricks (outside of outer arch). Once they were cut like this, I then cut the required slope to give me the vent shape on the inside.
-pic 121: look carefully at this one, the middle 5 bricks are half bricks. The next 2 bricks outside of these 5 (hard to see) have a ~45? angle cut in the back half to direct the smoke up the vent. Kind of like an upside down hopper.
-pic 126: another pic of this
-pic 145: this is a good view of the back half of the bricks cut out for the angle. Notice the outside bricks, how they are sloped down to about the last 1/2". Seems like a lot of work, but really only 4-6 bricks when you break it down.
Hope this helps & doesn't confuse you.


Todd B.

Excellent. I've got the the inner arch done. I put shims in both directions in and aluminum tape on my form to make it slippery. I have plenty of work to do to get the dome done now, but still wondering how you connected the inner arch to the outer arch. Did you make the outer first and then fill in the long whole bricks with cuts to land on both so you could create the vent?

[TxTanner]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Nice clean work

Bill

[johnt]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Excellent. I've got the the inner arch done. I put shims in both directions in and aluminum tape on my form to make it slippery. I have plenty of work to do to get the dome done now, but still wondering how you connected the inner arch to the outer arch. Did you make the outer first and then fill in the long whole bricks with cuts to land on both so you could create the vent?

[boylanta]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Hi JohnT,
You are correct.
See the attached pics 071, 072, & 073.

You will see the notch I ground out of the arch, as well as the angle grinder in the background.
I used the IT to dry-fit a brick in place & trace a line where the arch needed to be ground out. Then kept nibbling a little out until each brick would fit, with a little room for mortar.

I felt this was a better option than cutting so many half bricks to make that course fit around the arch.
I didn't feel this was enough to affect the integrity of the inner arch, but I wouldn't have wanted to grind out much more.
So I would think it depends on the dimensions of your oven & where (how far forward or back) that particular chain meets the inner arch.
Does that make sense?

Todd B.

Wow that is just great info and thanks for sharing all of the stuff you've obviously learned the hard way. I liked how you ground out the arch to make way for a course of dome bricks to make the transition easier. Did you just grind that out with an angle grinder after your arch cured?
Thanks so much for your help,
John

[johnt]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Wow that is just great info and thanks for sharing all of the stuff you've obviously learned the hard way. I liked how you ground out the arch to make way for a course of dome bricks to make the transition easier. Did you just grind that out with an angle grinder after your arch cured?
Thanks so much for your help,
John

[boylanta]

Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio

Hi JohnT,
See the 2 attached pictures below.
I used a square scrap of plywood to ensure the brick length was square.
I then used a shim to prop up one side of the brick.
I would adjust the shim as necessary to give me the desired angle.
It's primitive, and I wouldn't want to make a whole dome like this, but it worked well for the ~20-30 inner & outer arch bricks I needed.

I started by trying to get the trig accurate, like you're mentioning.
After realizing that this was going to be too difficult w/ the inaccuracy of cutting brick on a wetsaw, I just started cutting them trial & error & dry-fitting them (see attachment 031).
This worked well w/ the form in place. I was able to visually see the line & ensure my grout lines would be parallel/uniform.

I had a 10" wetsaw, so I had to cut most of the cut w/ the brick standing vertically. Then flip the brick over to finish the small amount that the 10" blade wouldn't reach.
As hokey as this sounds, it was surprisingly easy to match up the angle and get a nice clean edge.
I don't suspect this will be a problem for you w/ a 14" saw.

Also, keep in mind that your inner arch will always be completely black w/ soot. You will never see it.
I know this is not much condolence @ this stage.
But I found the inner arch made me much more comfortable getting the outer arch looking good, which you will see, of course.

The bevel you see on the inner arch was a mistake.
It originally was for appearance.
I realized after the fact though that it made it very difficult to seal the doorway, if I ever chose to put a door in (which I haven't found a need for).
See the bevel in the attached pic 031, then look at the inner arch in 064.
I also messed up w/ the plywood form in pic 031.
I didn't give myself enough room to drop it down when done.
So I had to pull it out laterally, which caused the entire inner arch to fail and break.
I had heard that arch's have a ton of vertical strength, but very little lateral strength. I know know firsthand.
This ended up being a blessing because it allowed me to correct my beveled inner arch brick problem.
Don't make the same mistake; cut your form a couple inches short, then shim it up to allow for an easy removal straight down.
Hope this all helps.
Good luck & let me know if you need anything else.

Todd B.

Hi Todd, I'm part way through a build using mostly your design. I'm about ready to cut the bricks for the inner arch. I have a 14 inch brick saw, but it seems a little difficult to cut the angles when the brick is on it's short side so I'm cutting through the 4 1/2 in. Did you have any tricks for this? I have got my 1/2 bricks ready to cut for the arch and the angle I plan to use is 1/2 of the side (2.5 / 2 = 1.25) divided by the outer radius of the arch (12.5 + 4.5 = 17). Then if I take the arc sin of 1.25/17 I get just over 4 degrees. How did you cut this angle? I have one idea of raising my saw table to give me the full blade of the saw available, but it still seems like a hard cut. Also, I noticed you beveled at least one of the edges of the inner arch, but I'm trying to figure out if you did it for appearance or maybe to make the path for the air to go out easier? Thanks so much for all your detailed posts.