Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Thanks for your help. You did not have to dig out just for me. We have been digging out here in Wisconsin quite a bit this winter. It is really getting old. My plan now is to pull the dome forward to access the cooking area a little easier. I can reach a little bit but if my wife is cooking that would be a different story, as she is shorter. I am already hearing about the height of the build, which is standard. I might just eliminate the landing area and build a separate work/prep area to the right of the oven. My thinking is you really do not want to be standing in front, only to put and take out the goodies. Also toying with the idea of a stepped in veneer design. With this design a person needs to be careful of horizontal masonry joints exposed to the weather. The flat steps would be precast stone panels. I also am using a air barrier/moisture (peel and stick) product with mortar net weeps to get any water out of the cavity between the backup block and brick veneer. Any dis-simmiular materials that ajoin each other would get backer rod and a eurathane sealant such as Tremco dymonic. What I want is a build that does not look so much like a little house. Other builds on this site are nice, but I want something different.
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Hi Campmaki,
I un-buried the oven from snow & checked the measurements.
From the center of my 42" oven to the exterior of the outer arch is 32", same as from my plans (31 7/8").
The oven landing (countertop) adds 12" to this, making the distance from the counter top edge to the center of the oven 44".
For me, this seems to be a great length for being able to reach the entire oven w/ the FB tools.
Hope this helps.
Todd B.
Originally posted by boylanta View PostHi Campmaki,
Take a look at the attached .pdf.
My design was 31 7/8" from the exterior of the outer arch to the center of my 42" oven.
The oven landing (countertop) adds 12" to this.
I have no issues reaching any part of my oven w/ the FB cooking tools.
Are you counting your oven landing in your 49" measurement?
These dimensions came off my plans.
I'm cooking tomorrow, so I'll double check these measurements and get back to you.
Hope this helps.
Todd B.
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Hi Campmaki,
Take a look at the attached .pdf.
My design was 31 7/8" from the exterior of the outer arch to the center of my 42" oven.
The oven landing (countertop) adds 12" to this.
I have no issues reaching any part of my oven w/ the FB cooking tools.
Are you counting your oven landing in your 49" measurement?
These dimensions came off my plans.
I'm cooking tomorrow, so I'll double check these measurements and get back to you.
Hope this helps.
Todd B.
Originally posted by Campmaki View PostBoylanta, Just a quick question. What is the distance from your flared outer edge to the center of your 42'' oven? Mine is 49'', seems like a reach to the center. Just asking someone who is cooking already. ThanksAttached Files
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
A deep entry makes the oven harder to work. I prefer a shallow entry for this reason, but if the entry is shallow, attention must be paid to design the flue gallery so the smoke can funnel to the flue pipe and the flue pipe needs to be of a good diameter (oversized) to prevent smoke escaping out the front.
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Boylanta, Just a quick question. What is the distance from your flared outer edge to the center of your 42'' oven? Mine is 49'', seems like a reach to the center. Just asking someone who is cooking already. Thanks
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Hi Joe,
The only moisture that I really worry about is what could get in between the firebrick floor and the granite countertop.
The overhang does a good job of keeping the snow out, unless it's extremely windy, In which case I'll clean the snow out before a fire, or before the temps rise enough to melt.
I use the oven 1-2 times all throughout the winter and haven't had any issues for the 2 years I've been using it (knock-on-wood).
I took a good amount of care to ensure maximum insulation around the entire structure. My decorative stone really doesn't see much heat at all.
I would think a bigger concern would be if you didn't use it for a couple months, then had a hot fire.
I would think you might want to have a couple smaller fires, getting subsequently larger, almost like a mini-curing again.
But that's just my speculation.
Hope this helps.
TB
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
I'm in NorthEsat Ohio as well and was wondering if you ever had moister during the winter months in the oven and how much you use the oven during extereme cold conditions. I have a concern about cracking the actual oven or decrative stone around it.
Joe
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Thanks. will absorb all that great info and let you know if (when?) I have more questions!
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Texas,
The links in my post #164 work for me, so I'm not sure what's going on.
Have you tried a different browser?
Let's see if I can answer your Q's...
1. You are correct. It's a full 4.5" brick on it's face. You can also get this dimension by subtracting the 13.5" to the vent landing from the 9" to the inner arch exterior.
2. I designed the entire oven using Google Sketchup. So the 21 33/64" was just a result of the Sketchup measurement. It certainly wasn't that accurate when I laid it, I just planned it out using the diagram you're referring to as a MDF floor template, if it was off a little, no big deal.
3. I picked 25.5" as an opening that I felt would look good, and would be functional. Having designed it in Sketchup, I was able to play with some dimensions, make changes and see how it looked. I liked the fact that 25.5" allowed me to see the entire oven from the sides. I'm not sure I would have been able to do that without flaring the opening. I like being able to see the entire floor without sticking my head in there.
4. I started with a full brick, cut the angle I needed to it to fit. Then cut another brick to fit in the piece that remained. I don't think the dimensions for this are that important, but I do think it's important that the joints are offset so they don't line up.
5. That notch was cut by marking the brick w/ a sharpie. Then holding it up against the wet saw and slowly nibbling away until I felt it was right.
6. The Duravent plate mounted on a platform I built up between the inner & outer arches. See my posts #97-#100 for pics of this. I just wanted to build a platform to attach the Duravent plate to that was level.
I uploaded a couple post-build pics at the bottom of this reply that my (or may not) help you with this.
This part of the build, I really didn't have a plan. I just kind of started, cut one brick at a time, and figured out what was going to work and what wouldn't. It was really mostly trial and error.
7. The bricks at the top of the outer arch are half bricks, angled on the sides to keep the mortar joints straight, if that makes sense...
8. The vent gap was ~6". There's a lot of information in this forum about vent sizing. The general consensus is that it should be as large as possible to maximize the draw. I wanted to make sure of this. So I went w/ an 8" pipe and tried to maximize the area of the vent, so I didn't get any smoke on the exterior of the oven. I'm happy w/ the results.
I can give you more specific dimensions that worked for me, if you need.
9. The ends of the bricks (to the inside of the oven) are mortared in place to the inner arch. I didn't use any additional mechanical adhesion for this.
Holding up well to this point.
10. The arches are holding up great (knock-on-wood) of course.
You'll have some minor joint cracking, but everyone has that.
Structurally, they are very sound. Plus I have the 2x4" metal stud walls kind of holding the whole thing together laterally.
Good luck.
Hope all of this helps.
Todd B.
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
I can't open the pictures from post #164 - is it no longer available?
question on floor layout pdf.... the "notch" that is 20" wide that is between the oven circle and the vent area - what is that dimension? I think 4.5" cause it looks like you put a full brick laying down into that notch.
is the outside dimension of the vent bricks really 21 33/64" What determined that? How did you decide what angle to make the vent area? Looks like you used a full 9" brick and then some part of a brick to make the angled piece..... what are the dimensions of the two pieces? How do you cut the notch in the brick as shown on the right side of the pdf (post #164)?
On the vent area - looks like duravent plate mounts on the inner arch and the outer arch - do you have more pictures or dimensions of this area? what size are the bricks at the top of the outer arch? What is the dimension of the gap for the vent? Do the ends of the bricks on the arch on the right and left of the vent gap, just get mortared to the inside and outside arch or is there something else to hold them in place?
Now that your oven has been in use for awhile, how are the arches holding up? I know some people talk about need buttressing and such, but yours looks so stable without.
Thanks so much for your help!
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Hi Todd, Can you please share what product you used to seal the chimney / roof border? My roof will be a stone tile and I don't have any angles or elbows so it's coming straight out the top of the peak of the roof which I will cut as close as I can to the chimney. I found some fire block sealant product from 3m "FB136", but not sure if this will hold up to the heat and may be made for "in case of a fire". What do you think?
Thanks,
John
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Beautiful WFO and even more beautiful Fall Colors!
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
my way is more sanitary.
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Re: My 42" Pompeii Oven build, Northeast Ohio
Originally posted by Sharkey View PostUrine will do it pretty much overnight
Seriously - this was the method recommended by Frank Loyd Wright for the best effect. Pee in a jar and paint it on.
Use the "hose applicator " supplied
Regards dave
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