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The Badger Build

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  • thebadger
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Dmun,

    No problem - glad you're looking out for us .

    I did special order the strapping from the manuf. who made the chimney. I think it might be galvanized (not sure how you tell) - definitly isn't stainless steel.

    Anything special I need to do (now that it's installed)?

    Thanks
    Dick

    Leave a comment:


  • dmun
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    You're right, I didn't see that. It only makes sense, if it's the manufacturer's sidewall mounting bracket they would make it to conform to code. I had visions of the unit nailed to the wood with galvanized strapping. Sorry.

    Leave a comment:


  • thebadger
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Dmun,

    The bracket is designed (might be hard to tell from the picture) to keep the chimney 2+ inches from the wood support I have cantilevering out from the pergola so I should be set there...

    I will loosen the strap a little. It's mainly there to keep the chimney from falling over.

    Thanks
    Dick

    Leave a comment:


  • dmun
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    As you can see, I attached my chimney to my pergola... The pergola does/can move a little to the left/right which doesn't concern me. But what I just thought of is should I be/can the pergola move up/down???

    I wouldn't want the pergola putting any extra stress on my arch...

    Should I loosen the strap a little?
    I think you should read your chimney install instructions: I suspect you need a two inch clearance to combustibles on that chimney unit. It will move differently than your pergola supports because of humidity effects on the wood and heat effects on the metal, so it should be a loose connection. in addition, I'd engineer some kind of non-combustible offset between the wood and the chimney: a block of left over insulation board wrapped in aluminum flashing, maybe.

    Leave a comment:


  • asudavew
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build (Chimney question)

    Originally posted by thebadger View Post
    Gang,

    As you can see, I attached my chimney to my pergola... The pergola does/can move a little to the left/right which doesn't concern me. But what I just thought of is should I be/can the pergola move up/down???

    I wouldn't want the pergola putting any extra stress on my arch...

    Should I loosen the strap a little?


    Gonna have to leave this one for Dmun.

    Leave a comment:


  • thebadger
    replied
    The Badger Build (Chimney question)

    Gang,

    As you can see, I attached my chimney to my pergola... The pergola does/can move a little to the left/right which doesn't concern me. But what I just thought of is should I be/can the pergola move up/down???

    I wouldn't want the pergola putting any extra stress on my arch...

    Should I loosen the strap a little?

    Let me know.

    Thanks
    Dick

    PS Ran out of perlite but just scored some more (somewhat finer granules) but $8 cheaper a 4 cf bag!

    Leave a comment:


  • mfiore
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Dan,

    Welcome to the forum. There are some other examples/photos of deep foundations for cold weather temps. Feel free to search the forum. Specifically, you can refer to the above Badger Build, my foundation http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f6/begins-3819.html, or Daren's http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f21/...orno-4194.html.

    These are examples of builds where we dug below the frost line. There are others who built on a floating concrete slab (on a bed of thick crushed gravel). I underestimated the cost of having conctete delivered twice (once for a footer below the block foundation, once for the slab). If I were to do it again, I'd dig a more narrow trench, put up forms for slabs, put in a lot of steel reinforcement, both vertical in the fountation as well as horizontal in the slab, and pour it all as one monolithic structure.

    Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • thebadger
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Dan,

    Thanks for the compliment. I asked a lot of questions on the forum and got some advice from my brother-in-law...

    Basically, I dug down past my "frost line" (~30" in Cincinnati), put in a 12 inch wide by 6+" footer with rebar. Dry stacked my blocks on top and filled most every core with concrete/rebar.

    There are some posts about doing a 'floating' foundation or insulating below the foundation using special styrofoam. Given your location I would put some thought into your foundation - due to the possibility of frost heave.

    I was going to pour a concrete footer inside but decided just to use crushed gravel/paver's since it's only going to be used for wood storage and I'll put a door to keep water out...

    Good luck.

    Dick

    Leave a comment:


  • schallert
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Dick,

    Great work! I live in frost line area as well. Where did you find the plans for how you created the foundation/stand? I do not see how you finished the floor under the stand... Is it just the ground or did you pour a shallow concrete floor?

    My location nests the stand partially into the side of a hill and will be flanked by a retaining wall. I am trying to determine if I can pour a foundation or excavate even deeper and use the same technique you did. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am very impressed by your documentation. I can not wait to start!
    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • SpringJim
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    It continues to come along nicely.....good job Dick!

    Leave a comment:


  • Frances
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Looking nicer and nicer.

    And I really like the colour of your sky, too... can I have some of that? Ours is a dingy shade of gray nowadays.

    I'd hazard a guess that you'll need to wait a week for the next fire, to give the cement in the perlcrete a chance to cure.

    Leave a comment:


  • thebadger
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Cplain,

    Thanks - I'll check it out. I definitely want all the protection I can get...

    Gang,

    Got a lot done but didn't take "all weekend" given it was fathers day
    • Chimney installed
    • 2 inches of blanket and chicken wire
    • 1/2 of the dome in perlcrete


    I know I need everything to dry before I stucco, but when can I start building fires again?

    Thanks
    Dick

    Leave a comment:


  • cplain
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    There's also paint specifically designed for stucco. In north part of states they recommend using an elastomeric paint. It's heavy duty latex paint that is designed to bridge cracks and actually flex. Here's one qucik article on it:

    Possibly the best exterior finish is elastomeric paint.

    Leave a comment:


  • Frances
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    Come to think of it, mine's covered with reinforced concrete... I think cplain is right, check out the fiberglass concrete products available. And on top of that I put a layer of acrylic house paint - seems water tight enough.

    I gather the difference between that kind of product and stucco is mainly in the name anyway. Or in the words of The Bard... "What's in a name? Stucco by any other name would hold off the rain just as well..."

    Leave a comment:


  • cplain
    replied
    Re: The Badger Build

    I've got a stucco house (in wisconsin no less!) Anyway, when a small section fell off above a second story window (lack of lathe). I picked up some reinforced concrete from HD. It's white with bits of fiberglass in it so it can be applied to vertical surfaces. You have to look very close to see difference between it an my stucco.

    It same stuff that CVDUKES has used to cast his outdoor fireplace o thread:

    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/36/s...ct-3464-4.html


    He calls it fiberglass reinforced cement.

    Leave a comment:

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