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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveNZ View Post
    Hey Mark! Great build, hope you’re enjoying it during lockdown! I’m down in the South Island planning out a build. I’m trying to decide whether to build a roof or enclosure around the oven. I see you’ve just used waterproof mortar. Would you do it differently a second time? And have you put in a vent for the insulation? I much prefer the look of ovens without a roof or enclosure (and a lot easier/cheaper!) but worry moisture will eventually get in. Cheers!
    Hi Dave

    Only just saw your post, sorry! Lockdown has been fine as we have pizza! LOL
    I like it just the way it is, but a roof will obviously be better for waterproofing. As it is, I think I'll paint the outside as some moisture still gets through the plaster. For the moment, I've found it best to cover the oven throughout winter with some tarps as it's only prolonged rain that is a problem. And boy, has it been wet of late!

    Good luck with your project. Shout out if you have any questions.

    Kind regards,
    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveNZ
    replied
    Hey Mark! Great build, hope you’re enjoying it during lockdown! I’m down in the South Island planning out a build. I’m trying to decide whether to build a roof or enclosure around the oven. I see you’ve just used waterproof mortar. Would you do it differently a second time? And have you put in a vent for the insulation? I much prefer the look of ovens without a roof or enclosure (and a lot easier/cheaper!) but worry moisture will eventually get in. Cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by Baza View Post
    Helps LOADS mate!
    It really helps to visualize the idea and minimize what I was going to do! I had it in my head to build quite a buttress but the work you did is tight, focussed and apparently sufficient to the task.
    I will move forward more comfortably with the idea of buttressing now.

    Really appreciate your reply and photos, Mark!
    Very kind of you!
    Barry
    Thank you Barry!
    I look forward to following your build.

    Kind regards,
    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • Baza
    replied
    Helps LOADS mate!
    It really helps to visualize the idea and minimize what I was going to do! I had it in my head to build quite a buttress but the work you did is tight, focussed and apparently sufficient to the task.
    I will move forward more comfortably with the idea of buttressing now.

    Really appreciate your reply and photos, Mark!
    Very kind of you!
    Barry

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by Baza View Post
    Hey Mark!
    Been great following your build and your work on the heat tracking has been invaluable to the forum!

    I'm interested in your Arch buttressing - you indicate that (like me) you have a segmented arch. You indicate you have buttressed the sides to support the assembly going up from there (your chimney is quite different moving backwards, but you still felt it important to buttress). I'm wondering if you have a pic to reference? It would be good to see how high up you went on the straight side of the segmented arch to ensure the outward thrust from any weight above the arch is compensated for in the buttressing.

    I'm feeling I will have to factor in the same.

    Thanks - and REALLY HAPPY FOR YOU with the success of your build - door, and particularly FOOD!
    Barry
    Hi Barry

    Thank you for your kind words! Basically, you'll see that with the type of bricks I used, that I cut each brick in half to make my dome thickness. (Have a look at my build photos earlier in this thread)
    But, for the lower part of the door arch, I used full bricks, effectively creating a double-wide support for the arch. Near the top of those "uprights", I also built out some bricks to act as a "hook" to hold the sideways thrust of the outer decorative arch, which is only a single 3" thick brick all round.

    You can see what I mean in these photos. Notice the large "pillars" for the door arch:



    And here, you can see how that "thick" pillar" on both sides does not go full height. After 5 courses I change to a thinner construction and you can make out the brick that "hooks" and holds the top of the front decorative arch from spreading sideways:



    The photo is a bit dark but you should be able to make it out. The insulation layers and the plaster render hides that part of the door construction rather well.

    In the end, I used a fair bit of mortar around the outer arch to give it more strength too:



    Hope that helps!

    Kind regards,
    Mark
    Last edited by MarkJerling; 04-11-2021, 06:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Baza
    replied
    Hey Mark!
    Been great following your build and your work on the heat tracking has been invaluable to the forum!

    I'm interested in your Arch buttressing - you indicate that (like me) you have a segmented arch. You indicate you have buttressed the sides to support the assembly going up from there (your chimney is quite different moving backwards, but you still felt it important to buttress). I'm wondering if you have a pic to reference? It would be good to see how high up you went on the straight side of the segmented arch to ensure the outward thrust from any weight above the arch is compensated for in the buttressing.

    I'm feeling I will have to factor in the same.

    Thanks - and REALLY HAPPY FOR YOU with the success of your build - door, and particularly FOOD!
    Barry

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by lorenzo73 View Post
    Sorry, the size got reduced after I posted it. Trying again here. All the temperature charts are on the last tab of this worksheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...6dhTgi4oM/edit

    Click image for larger version  Name:	7A299099-8941-4840-AE0D-47623DCB0FAC.jpeg Views:	20 Size:	164.0 KB ID:	435222
    Thank you, I can see those much better!
    Very nicely done Craig! I wish I had thought of something like this!
    Kind regards,
    Mark
    Last edited by MarkJerling; 02-04-2021, 12:27 PM. Reason: Typo

    Leave a comment:


  • lorenzo73
    replied
    Sorry, the size got reduced after I posted it. Trying again here. All the temperature charts are on the last tab of this worksheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...6dhTgi4oM/edit

    Click image for larger version

Name:	7A299099-8941-4840-AE0D-47623DCB0FAC.jpeg
Views:	281
Size:	164.0 KB
ID:	435222

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Very nice. Can you upload your image larger? It's tiny and impossible to read.

    Leave a comment:


  • lorenzo73
    replied
    Originally posted by Corsairmo View Post
    Mark, your heat measurement fascinates me. How are you collecting this data? A thermocouple with a connection to ??? I'm a hobby computer nerd and this sounds like something I've overlooked! Beautiful door by the way, I'm looking to reach out to a fabricator family member to help create mine, but am stumped on what to use for insulation inside. Where did you source your stuff?
    I mounted K-type thermocouples in the dome and floor, and connected them to a 4-channel readout that logs data to an SD card. I used this one (bought from Amazon): https://www.gainexpress.com/products/88598 ... Very helpful to have a record of each burn cycle.

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by NCMan View Post
    Very good advice. To that, I would add to consider using well-placed thermal breaks.
    You're right. And, I could have done better with that on the door arch.

    Leave a comment:


  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by Boogie-D View Post
    Thank you so much mark this is very useful information... I really appreciate it... I plan to use my big cast iron Dutch oven inside the oven... part of my design is that big old antique beast need to fit inside... and I want to do large roast of meat as well...

    one thing we do in Hawaii is imu cooking... below ground... Maori have this tradition as well... in fact for thanksgiving we did 4 big square tins underground.... we look at the wfo as an above ground imu that we can cook traditional Hawaiian food in.... I am thinking my original plan of 37 inches is on track... mahalo.
    Yes, a Dutch oven works very well. We have one and it works great in the WFO.
    You're right, Maori call below ground cooking "hangi" and I rather enjoy it.

    Leave a comment:


  • JRPizza
    replied
    You might want to consider 39". It's right in the middle of the FB plan's 36 and 42 and the numbers work out really well if you build a hemispherical brick arch. When we do retained heat baking we often cook with two big pans in the oven. Yes a bigger oven can take more wood to heat but we just make sure we cook a minimum of two if not 3 things every time we fire We typically follow pizza with roast chicken in the AM and a pork or beef roast in the afternoon, along with any veggies we want to cook (acorn squash is a favorite). The next 3 or 4 meals are planned around the meat we have cooked.

    Leave a comment:


  • NCMan
    replied
    Originally posted by MarkJerling View Post

    You really cannot have too much insulation.
    Very good advice. To that, I would add to consider using well-placed thermal breaks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Boogie-D
    replied
    Thank you so much mark this is very useful information... I really appreciate it... I plan to use my big cast iron Dutch oven inside the oven... part of my design is that big old antique beast need to fit inside... and I want to do large roast of meat as well...

    one thing we do in Hawaii is imu cooking... below ground... Maori have this tradition as well... in fact for thanksgiving we did 4 big square tins underground.... we look at the wfo as an above ground imu that we can cook traditional Hawaiian food in.... I am thinking my original plan of 37 inches is on track... mahalo.

    Leave a comment:

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