Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

36" build in heart of Europe, Czech Republic

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • mrotter
    replied
    Hello UtahBeehiver and others. Weather is getting better here, so I drilled 1 weep hole (in the place which is sits in a small "walley" so water goes into the place by gravity, also bought cheap free-resistant tiles and placed and cut to shape.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    I was cutting CaSi yesterday, I decided to make room for 2 cm reveal at oven entry, also I made enough length for 35 cm vent arch which I believe is more than adequate.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Also, made some sketch to vizualize where inner arch TDC and my dome intersects, just to make some ideas about how forward/backward movement of arch can influence the intersection.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    The mortar joints are quite large so you may want to consider either tapering the bricks or installing voussiors in the large mortar joints
    Yes, I am perfectly aware of that and will address the issue of course. I did not really decide whether to taper arch bricks or not. Perhaps I will as I will have some time before spring kicks in.

    I am about to cut CaSi board to final shape. Can you confirm that my dimensions will be okay? ID - 85 cm, CaSi - 125 cm (12,5 cm for dome half/bricks, 7,5 cm for insulation - each side), total oven outer diameter about 135-137 cm (5-6 cm for perlcrete coating, render).

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    The mortar joints are quite large so you may want to consider either tapering the bricks or installing voussiors in the large mortar joints. Make sure you leave room for a relief under the form so you can get it out after the arch is complete. Since you are doing an axe arch attached in a pic from Mr. Chipster showing how the IT works for a tapered arch on this type of arch configuration.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	hemiarch.jpg
Views:	751
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	443367

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Just now made inner arch form, it is 45 cm wide, 27 cm high, dome will be 34" ID.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    Here's something to chew on then for the winter.

    [ATTACH]n443325[/ATTACH] ​​​​​​​
    Nice, I am just working on my arch form, quite busy tho.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Here's something to chew on then for the winter.

    Taper Arch Help.pdf ​​​​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    OK, brother. I will maybe post some other questions, but at this point I feel much more competent to build my WFO. THANKS!

    Yes, it seems that IT will help greatly when I have arch form cut and prepared in place to understad how long/shaped/angled by TDC brick and other arch bricks need to be.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Revisit the Tapered Inner Arch later. It is too early in your build to explain right now and there is nothing you can do right now anyway. But a quick answer, the tapered inner arch needs to use full length bricks, each one different in length as well as angles (TDC is the longest). They are NOT all the same and the IT will help you determine the angles and slope when you get to that point. PS that is the correct alignment from the pivot point to the center of the brick. You can see how an incorrect set up affects the bricks and it is cumulative and get worse as you go up each course.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 11-21-2021, 10:45 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Here I highlighted that the anchor is in line with middle of L bracket to meet at middle if brick thick.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    The inside of the arch (top left and right corners) need to intersect the ID of the dome. On the IT there are a couple issues you need to be aware off. First, the pivot point is offset from the center as well as the off the floor elevation. This will affect the dome dimensions as you go up in course so you need to make adjustments. Second, this one is critical. The line from the center point on the floor and the "L" bracket "must " intersect the midway point on the brick, IE if the bricks are 50mm thick then the intersection point needs to be at 25mm. the way the L bracket is currently mounted to the wood appears to be too high. Material look good, not sure what the square mesh is going to be used for (under the CaSi?)
    Thanks for the picture. I actually made some tests, and subsequently tweaked IT. You are right. If your L is placed too LOW -> subsequent edges of bricks are too far. Of L is placed too high -> subsequent edges of bricks are too close and not sitting properly. I tweaked the tool so that L can be also partially adjusted vertically. I will take that behavior into account when working with inner vent arch. See pictures. THanks for this again.

    You say: "The inside of the arch (top left and right corners) need to intersect the ID of the dome." I see. That is the only condition to make sure that arch meets dome "correctly"? I am aware of tapering bricks to get proper shape. Will all bricks in arch have same length? I saw some posts where they are same length, then I saw som comments from you where you mention that TDC brick is the longest brick in arch. I am bit confused. Also, I plan to build arch as I go with courses, it will sit on premade form of course.

    Also, measured bricks, they are actually 68 mm thick.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • mrotter
    replied
    Perfect, will post adjustments tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Okay, try this. Click image for larger version

Name:	image_96439.jpg
Views:	683
Size:	564.0 KB
ID:	443272

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X