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42" Pompeii - Florida

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  • WaterDog
    replied
    UtahBeehiver I assume by David's reference to 'weed mat' is probably what I think of as landscape cloth here in the US - used under mulch in flower beds to reduce weeds. Is that correct? Understand the purpose just never heard it mentioned in this context before. Makes sense.

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  • david s
    replied
    Thanks Russel,
    An explanation of poor performance of an oven with wet insulation, is in the modification of two ovens that I made work successfully. The particular design had a steel frame over which was placed 3/4” marine ply, then calcium silicate board, then the firebrick floor. Although marine ply is weatherproof it will not survive constant moisture, so water getting into the oven either through the mouth or by cracks in the outer shell, will fall by gravity and accumulate under the floor. In the case of both of the ovens I repaired, they had cracks around the dome to flue joins, which I repaired with render and high temperature silicon that allowed the flue to expand without cracking the outer shell.
    underneath I drilled a number of 1/2” holes through the marine ply which was (in both ovens) rotten in a number of places. This allowed an exit for under floor moisture and after a number of long low and slow fires the ovens dried out and initial performance was restored.
    The lesson I learned here was that water needs to be kept out, but if it enters an exit should be provided. Also don’t trust marine ply to be totally waterproof it’s not and it rots.
    Last edited by david s; 03-01-2024, 02:22 AM.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    What Dave means, that if you place tiles down on hearth with spacing so water can channel out to the weep holes then any pooling water will not absorb up through the pcrete from the hearth. The weed fabric is so the channels will not get blocked when you do the pcrete pour. Wet insulation is one of the key factors in poor thermal performance of an oven.

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  • TomYork
    replied
    Thanks for the comments. For the 42" interior oven build i calculated a 51" diameter circle to account for the 4.5" fire brick around the perimeter. I've also taken into account an 8" deep vent landing that is 26" wide including the thickness of the brick. I then would plan to cover the entirety in a 3" blank and then stucco/tile over the top of that. The 4" layer of perlcrete would be visible under the oven wall and landing until covered by the insulating blanket.

    I'm not sure what this means though:

    If you go the tile addition below the vermicrete insulation you can also go a step further and hold the vermicrete up from the gaps between the tiles by placing some weed mat over the tiles.
    Attached Files

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  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    I am pretty sure David S will advise you to make sure the pcrete is "really" dry before laying the fire brick down on it. Removing water from floor pcrete is difficult to remove once the fire brick is laid on top. Also to be sure if you only pour pcrete in the shape of the oven, make sure all parts of the oven, ie floor, dome, wall, etc ) have insulation under it.
    Thanks Russell,
    If you go the tile addition below the vermicrete insulation you can also go a step further and hold the vermicrete up from the gaps between the tiles by placing some weed mat over the tiles.
    See attached my experiment for drying a vermicrete slab.

    Vermicrete insulating slab PDF.pdf

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I am pretty sure David S will advise you to make sure the pcrete is "really" dry before laying the fire brick down on it. Removing water from floor pcrete is difficult to remove once the fire brick is laid on top. Also to be sure if you only pour pcrete in the shape of the oven, make sure all parts of the oven, ie floor, dome, wall, etc ) have insulation under it.

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  • david s
    replied
    Drilling a few holes through the concrete slab from the base up will provide a drain for moisture to escape. When the hole reaches the top surface it will probably blow out a bit which is actually an advantage, leaving a slope towards the drain hole. Even better, although not essential is to lay some tiles over the concrete supporting slab (but not covering the holes). This raised the insulating slab so it won’t get wet feet and provides channels for steam to find its way out more efficiently.

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  • TomYork
    replied
    Thanks for your reply, I plan to make a form and then pour 4" of a 5 : 1 perlite : portland cement mixture before laying down the fire brick floor. I've also included some additional pictures which includes my latest progress.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    What is you floor insulation going to be and how thick so we can guide you. This is an important stage of the build, once laid down, no going back. BTW, good start, be aware it will be a little difficult to work on the back side with the wood and brick fence there.

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  • TomYork
    started a topic 42" Pompeii - Florida

    42" Pompeii - Florida

    I'm more of a woodworker, but love pizza and thought I'd try my hand at building an oven. My concrete work has not been what I would consider pretty, more along the lines of good enough. I have the materials for for the insulation layer between the hearth and the oven floor and will work on creating the form for that next. Here's my progress so far. Feel free to offer suggestions as I move forward.

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