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Re: 36" in Seattle
Framed up the cage that will hold about three inches of loose InsWool HP over the dome. It's basically the same stuff as the blankets that most FBers use. The cage is ordinary aluminum screen door material. I opted against the fiberglass screen although I don't know, maybe it would work too. Obviously, plastic mesh would be a bad idea as it might melt.
The cage is held down to the hearth with tapcons (second photo). I intend to fill the bottom three inches (next to the InsBlock 19 boards) with loose vermiculite, then go InsWool from there on up to the apex. Hopefully the vermiculite will hold the tabs (second photo) down and not work its way out through the bottom before I get a chance to build or otherwise enclose the next layer of construction (either vermicrete or an enclosure with vermiculite fill).
I am a little unsure how I will keep the InsWool from slipping out the front edge of the cage. The front edge will be held down to some degree by a wire tieing the left and right sides together through the groove behind the vent, but it may not be tight enough to prevent the InsWool from slipping out. I would duct-tape it down, but then it'll melt later which might not be pleasant. Another idea is to mortar the edge of the screen to the outside of the vent. Whatever, I'll figure something out.
The third and fourth photos show the chimney shoe. I'm using an 8" double-walled pipe (10" exterior). The basic premise is easy to visualize from the photos. The shoe will be three layers tall. The fourth photo shows that I beveled (chamfered) the front-lower edge of the two shoe bricks for the lowest shoe level that will extend slightly past the entry arch. It'll make sense in later posts.
As a side-note, the shoe bricks are the first bricks of the entire project that I used an angle-grinder to complete. All prior bricks were formed entirely with the tile saw. For these bricks, I hollowed out the curve with the saw as best as possible, then took an angle grinder with a masonry blade and smoothed it out. Worked like a charm, although I'm unclear whether it is appropriate to use a grinder as a "sander" as opposed to edge on like I used it to cut rebar. Hopefully this was kosher...or at least safe. Sure as hell did a number on the masonry blade, that's for certain.
Cheers!
Framed up the cage that will hold about three inches of loose InsWool HP over the dome. It's basically the same stuff as the blankets that most FBers use. The cage is ordinary aluminum screen door material. I opted against the fiberglass screen although I don't know, maybe it would work too. Obviously, plastic mesh would be a bad idea as it might melt.
The cage is held down to the hearth with tapcons (second photo). I intend to fill the bottom three inches (next to the InsBlock 19 boards) with loose vermiculite, then go InsWool from there on up to the apex. Hopefully the vermiculite will hold the tabs (second photo) down and not work its way out through the bottom before I get a chance to build or otherwise enclose the next layer of construction (either vermicrete or an enclosure with vermiculite fill).
I am a little unsure how I will keep the InsWool from slipping out the front edge of the cage. The front edge will be held down to some degree by a wire tieing the left and right sides together through the groove behind the vent, but it may not be tight enough to prevent the InsWool from slipping out. I would duct-tape it down, but then it'll melt later which might not be pleasant. Another idea is to mortar the edge of the screen to the outside of the vent. Whatever, I'll figure something out.
The third and fourth photos show the chimney shoe. I'm using an 8" double-walled pipe (10" exterior). The basic premise is easy to visualize from the photos. The shoe will be three layers tall. The fourth photo shows that I beveled (chamfered) the front-lower edge of the two shoe bricks for the lowest shoe level that will extend slightly past the entry arch. It'll make sense in later posts.
As a side-note, the shoe bricks are the first bricks of the entire project that I used an angle-grinder to complete. All prior bricks were formed entirely with the tile saw. For these bricks, I hollowed out the curve with the saw as best as possible, then took an angle grinder with a masonry blade and smoothed it out. Worked like a charm, although I'm unclear whether it is appropriate to use a grinder as a "sander" as opposed to edge on like I used it to cut rebar. Hopefully this was kosher...or at least safe. Sure as hell did a number on the masonry blade, that's for certain.
Cheers!
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