36" in Seattle

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Great job Kebwi on the oven base. It will be soooo much easier to frame your upper slab pour with 2x8's and take your time leveling that to make up for any not-so-level points along your base. It's your last chance to things level but it's easy since you're working at waist height and not on the ground .

What's your plans for supporting the upper slab pour? Will you put plywood under your rebar cage with supports and remove it all after it's cured a week or will you use durock under your upper slab and just leave it in? -Cheers, Dino

[ThisOldGarageNJ]

Re: 36" in Seattle

I got mine at lowes,,, I think i paid 19 at the time.. If you can Ice a cake you can use this stuff... It has fiberglass strands in it, and they claim its much stronger than a mortar type joint wall.. Though the way Ive seen most of us here (over) build our ovens, I just hope Im not cooking a pizza if they ever drop a bomb, cause thats where Im gonna hide...
Cheers Mark

[fxpose]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Looking good so far!

I heard good things about the QuikWall SBC too. More expensive than regular stucco, it is supposed to add additional structural strength, especially on mortarless block walls and such. I intend to use this on my oven build as well as on my current concrete wall/patio job. Orchard Supply Hardware sells them for $18. I've seen them at Lowe's for like $23.

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

ThisOldGarageNJ:

You're asking specifically about the concrete blocks, not the dome? My first preference would be ledgestone, which I've seen on some perimeter walls and house sidings around town and which I absolutely love. I suspect I may rule it out once I start pricing it though. Sigh.

I had been shooting to stucco (or the Quikrete alternative) the dome, just not necessarily the storage area. I figured, consistency probably didn't matter since the hearth around the dome won't be horizontal stucco anyway. I'm would like to flagstone the foundation where people stand in front of the oven and am therefore considering flagstone for the hearth as well.

...but I am very interested in the Quikrete for the stucco dome. I've read about it on FB before.

...lastly, I am considering some non-stucco options for the dome, some pretty off the wall stuff that I won't disclose here yet bearing in mind that I really dislike rectangular "buildings" with conventional gabled roofs.

Cheers!

[ThisOldGarageNJ]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Hey Keb,,
I think it looks great.. Dont worry about the small stuff it all works out..

How are you eventually covering the blocks ? I used the Quikrete Surface Bonding Cement, ( i know I push this stuff alot,No I dont get a commision() Great stuff, very beginner friendly and adds structural strength to your block base.. You can do both the inside and outside with it,, You can also add Acrylic Fortifier for water proofing and color as well...

you cant see it to well in the pic, But I used a grout sponge for a slightly rough finish, or you can trowel it smooth...

Keep up the good work your doing fine, Your re-bar looks great..and practical
Cheers
Mark

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Previous post continued.

This photos show the core-pouring job after completion, with a little additional rebar, namely a single very long corner halfway around the structure across both openings and an additional vertical rebar in the "weak" corner.

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Rebared the hearth and fill the cores today. Phew!

Photos:

• Lintel detail, notice the J-hooks at the bottom.
• Vertical rebar per core, J-hook at bottom, L-hook at top.
• "Weak" corner detail (there will be a little more rebar before it's done).
• Full hearth rebar (except a few pieces, see later photos).
• Gravity assist from the retaining wall.

Photos continued in next post.

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Thanks. It seems apparent that I bit off more than I could chew for my foundation since it was the first concrete job I had ever done in my life (not so much as a post-hole). My foundation presented several complications which a novice probably shouldn't contend with:

• No experience with gauging the proper water mixture (well, this is one is unavoidable you're first time I suppose).
• A nonrectangular shape with several pieces of form around the edge, all of which must be perfectly level and must stay sturdy while pouring.
• Placement against a corner wall, thus preventing external access from two sides.

I would have have more success if I had either: kept it simple (rectangular and away from the wall), or, enlisted the assistance of someone who had solid experience with such a project (not that anyone immediately comes to mind).

Oh well, life goes on. No big deal.

Thanks for all the input. I hope to have the cores poured this weekend.

Cheers!

[papavino]

Re: 36" in Seattle

I filled my cores with concrete, then pushed the rebar down into them. I made sure they were all the way down by pounding on them with a hammer. It's not that hard.

In terms of the stand being out of level, I agree with Ken. You should be able to correct for this with the hearth pour. Just double check all of your forms to make sure they are level with each other and move on.

[vintagemx0]

Re: 36" in Seattle

We wanted our vertical rebar to be set into the slab. 'Not sure if this was necassary, but we mapped-out where the rebar should go with string when we poured and screeded our slab. I marked the tops of the form to indicate where to place a screw, and after the screeding, we put sheet-rock screws into the forms and then loomed string from screw to screw in a fashion that created a pre-planned grid of intersecting strings over the top of the concrete. The intersections of the strings over the wet cement indicated where to place the rebar. I just stuck them (easily) into the concrete by hand.

Granted, the concrete was only 4" thick, but was effortless. I think you could insert them with no more help than a hammer for the last little bit. If you worry about the media deflecting the rebar, grinding a point on the end of the rebar would help. I think it would be pretty easy to insert them. Try it with one and see how it goes.

Ken

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Is it fairly easy to insert rebar all the way to the bottom of the core once the core is filled? I was going to try to pour around the rebar while it was held in the center of the core out of fear that I might not be able to push the rebar down through the core after it is filled.

[vintagemx0]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Sorry, you did say you're filling the cores... Assuming you're insulating the hearth from the structural pad, I really think you'll have enough over-all thickness to absorb any irregularities. I think you're thinking is sound and that you don't have anytihing to worry about.

Too bad we couldn't dxf out our CAD files to somehow make the practical work go as smooth as it does on the screen, eh?

Definately wait for more advice, but I beleive you're fine. Best of luck!

Ken

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Just to clarify, my plan does include vertical rebar in the poured cores (in addition to a gratuitous abundance of rebar in the hearth, especially around the lintels; see my CAD designs).

Thanks.

[vintagemx0]

Re: 36" in Seattle

We think it would be wise to fill the corners, and then every other hole with concrete. Then, while the concrete is fresh and wet, insert a piece of rebar into the center of each one. Cheap insurance to ensure that the structure is locked together. You'll need to work-out how you're going to tie-in the structural slab's rebar into the blocks before hand though. I believe there is a lot of threads on here concerning this.

As for it being un-level, I wouldn't be too concerned. Your plan to level the forms and screeding the hearth pour level is good. When you have it finished, you won't be able to detect any imperfections in the blocks, but you will want the hearth to be as level as possible.

Your OK, you don't even need to think you're comprimising. It will work just fine.

Others? Please chime-in and comment and tell him your thoughts so he can carry-on!

Regards,

The Morgans

[kebwi]

Re: 36" in Seattle

Here's a preliminary dry-stack of the stand. It seems pretty obvious that the foundation is not only not level, but not even flat. I've had quite a few amateur problems with my foundation. <Sigh>

I'm open to suggestions. My initial thought is to not make any attempt to fix this in the stand, to just pour and fill the stand cores in their current arrangement, frame up the hearth, then pour and level the hearth as per the basic Pompeii directions without any specific changes to compensate for the uneven stand. My thinking is it shouldn't matter whether the bottom of the hearth is flat so long as the top is flat. I'm curious if this would risk distributing the weight unevenly in a way that would compromise the stand.

What do you think?

On a separate note, my neighbor suggested filling all the cores with concrete on the argument that the wall might shift otherwise (he wasn't commenting on the unevenness at all, he just thought I should fill all the cores anyway). Meh. Thoughts?

[Afterthought: Another option is to grind out a bit of the foundation. It would only require a small amount, 1/8" might be sufficient...although I would need the right kind of grinder blade, maybe one of those "cup" blade things.]