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Duane's 42" Build

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    I will give it a try.
    Can somebody remind me of the formula for the render coating and the thickness?
    I have 3" of insulation so I think I can go straight the the hard shell.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I have seen some builders scoring or cross-hatching mating surfaces of bricks with an angle grinder and diamond wheel to reduce slippage and increase the mortar grab. May work here.

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    Hey all.
    I have attached a few photos.
    One of the sealer/adhesive used to secure the chimney pipe base to the firebrick, rated at a much higher temp than what we are using. It is rock solid.
    My chimney cap made of the refractory castable separated from the mortar. I already had concerns about that area due to the temps at the time and the mortar did not have a chance to cure as a opposed to drying out. Needs some suggestions at this point on how to secure the cap to the chimney? The dome will be intersecting the backside of the refractory chimney cap due to poor planning. Click image for larger version

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Looking great. Well done!

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    Good morning. Insulated the dome with 3" of blanket from our host at Forno Bravo and put the oven through five twelve hour days of drying fires. I ended up removing the perlcrete mixture around the base of the dome and used the blanket instead. It took me a minute but I found a crack in the dome that I was hoping to get lucky and avoid. Had a few of our kids, grandkids and one of the neighbors over for pizza yesterday afternoon. The best pizzas!!! Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    It is a shame!

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    It is really a shame that all the pretty dome brick work will be covered by insulation. You are on the home stretch.

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    Hey guys, hope everybody is doing well!

    I haven't had much time to spend with the oven lately.
    Doing what I can in these couple of days off.
    Attached are a few photos of the latest progress.
    Ready for the insulation and render know I believe.
    I will be cooking out of this oven before the end of the year. Click image for larger version

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  • david s
    replied
    The highest rated silicone I could find is Permatex Ultra Copper, which I use in my builds. It is ok provided flames are not allowed up the flue pipe. After about ten years use the stuff remained intact and elastic until my wife killed it when firing up the oven and allowing flames into the flue pipe. It killed the silicon, so I had to redo it. No big dramas, but I sacked her from firing the oven.
    There are other non silicone solutions, but all that I tried went hard and didn’t remain elastic meaning they didn’t seal against material that is expanding and contracting frequently.
    If using it under an anchor plate I think that will be too hot for silicone. The seal on my build is quite a bit higher up and therefore cooler. In that position it wouldn’t matter if it goes hard because it will presumably be covered in insulation.
    Last edited by david s; 05-01-2022, 07:47 PM.

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  • Pizzarotic
    replied
    Any fireplace or flue supplier should have high temp product's. Most pure silicones are rated for 400-600⁰f but can handle a lot higher temps. Lavalock ​have a 1000⁰ tape and Vitcas do a 1800⁰ sealant.

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    Can anybody recommend a high temp adhesive/silicone to attach the chimney pipe anchor plate to the fire brick?

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    One more thing.

    Look at all these excess cuts and "practice cuts".
    Attached Files

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    I abandoned the concrete form for the supporting landing and went with a 3" wide and 5.5" tall support for the landing and around the perimeter of the oven. It is a 6 to 1 perlite and Portland cement mix. My hopes are to provide a bit of insulation around the perimeter as well as a backer of sorts for the floor bricks and fire clay and sand mixture between the castable and the floor bricks and to be a support for the quartzite landing and backer for the quartzite risers.

    Some really weird stuff, I hope it works!

    Attached is a few photos of todays progress. I mocked up the landing and the guy was able to sell me and will be cutting the piece of quartzite for the landing and the risers.

    Any suggestions how to mortar or use an adhesive for the landing and risers to what I have done?
    Attached Files

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  • Gulf
    replied
    A form board can also be removed too soon. I have done this purposely with no release agent when wanting an exposed aggregate finish. It will sometimes look similar to the rough pic that you posted.

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  • Hamilton
    replied
    Thanks Joe.
    I did rent and vibrate the concrete as we were bucketing it from the concrete buggy to the form.
    I will do some research regarding release agents.

    Leave a comment:

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