Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Frustrated

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Frustrated

    Hi, this is the second oven I have built, my first one way a cob style clay oven which worked great just not weather proof and not big enough. So I decided to build a bigger brick one. Has been going well until the 8th course.
    I have been reading the forums trying to find a solution to my problem of the bricks not meeting up at the vertical join at about the 7th course of bricks, I end up with a triangle gap at the bottom joint.
    I have included some pics of my work so far.

    Any advice greatly appreciated.
    Sam

  • #2
    Unless you are cutting the bricks to a bevel that is the usual situation you could bring the corner with an angle grinder to remove issue or just fill with mortar. The issue becomes more accute as the circled reduce and roll over and is because of the difference circumference in the top and bottom of the course

    Comment


    • #3
      We call this the inverted V and as T says, it requires that the bricks get beveled to the side faces of the brick mate together. Here is an example from a build showing the inverted V and I attached a pic showing bricks tapers (angle) and bevel. You only need to bevel the front half or so of the brick so the inside joint is tight. Let mortar fill in the back side of the brick.

      https://community.fornobravo.com/fil...photoid=297439
      Russell
      Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the advice. I think I know what I was doing wrong now. Will give the bevel a go on my next days off and when the rain stops.
        Sam

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
          pic showing bricks tapers (angle) and bevel.

          https://community.fornobravo.com/fil...photoid=297439
          This picture finally makes sense now
          Cheers

          Greg

          My Build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...erra-australia

          Photo Album: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...JZX8QMLT_9mVj7

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the advice still struggling with this I have angles the bricks and that has worked to a certain degree. Now I am passed the arch which has tested ever ounce of patience that I have and more some, beginning to feel that this is beyond me. Anyway what I lack in skill I more than make up for in stubbornness. So finally I get to my question is the bevel at the back of the brick or the inside edge? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

            Comment


            • #7

              Comment


              • #8
                The bevel is on the inside (or the whole brick if you prefer) to allow tighter joints on the inside of the dome.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Any chance you have a picture of of Jonv

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    In post #3 I mentioned that the bevel takes place on the inside not the back.
                    Russell
                    Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sorry, I don't have a suitable photo at the moment - haven't cut my own bricks yet! I’m sure somebody will be able to supply one…

                      It might help to visualise the problem, though, if you picture a globe with the lines of latitude and longitude – they define (non-rectangular) sections that are just like those one needs to cut from brick to make a dome. The lines of longitude narrow as you proceed from the equator up (or down) the globe. To fit tightly a brick must have the vertical faces cut at the correct angle – just like lines of longitude. This angle becomes steeper as you approach the top, so you may get away without cutting the first few courses. If you use rectangular brick sections to approximate this shape, there will be a wedge shaped void that gets larger as you proceed.


                      The *ideal* brick (short of curved surfaces) will be cut with three angles – see simple diagram attached. In all three cases a rectangular brick (edges in red) will be missing a wedge of material. The difference, though, is that in the two cases on the left, the wedges are not visible from the inside of the dome and one can just fill with mortar without this being seen. The scenario on the right, though, which is akin to lines of longitude on a globe, leaves a wedge that is visible on the inside of the dome. It is up to you at what point this becomes too pronounced and needs to be addressed.

                      Hope that helps a bit…

                      (edit: the attachment is fine but the 'photo' looks awful - dunno why - for some reason can't delete it either)

                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My bad utahbeehiver, I re read your post after I sent the message, & you we quite clear that the bevel was at the front just got myself all confused after today's efforts.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Think I have had a bit of a breakthrough. I have a stand for my angle grinder and thought if I angled the bricks to be cut, i.e. Using a brick off cut to lift the brick to the desired angle then lower the grinder down this should give me the correct bevel. Right?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you get the angle right and so long as it's stable and safe to cut I don't see why not... I'm cutting mine with a chop saw so the same sort of thing.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X