A short list of questions to get me started on the build

[Dr.Lee]

Here are my current questions with commentary regarding my 39" build.

1) I can't find anyone around in our rural area of PA that knows anything about 60 mesh sand. It was suggested to me by Forno Bravo to use some 60 mesh sand between the FB board and my floor for leveling. My base is dead level. So, do I need sand and if so, can I use play sand?

2) I have seen images of builds where the first course of brick (soldier?) on top of the floor is a cut brick (4 1/2" ) on its side and I have seen images where the 41/2" cut brick is standing up. Which way should I go for my 39" build and why?

3) Does JR Pizza have an album of just pics for his 39" build or only the build thread?

4) Assuming I place the first course of brick on top of the floor as opposed to beside it how far can the floor extend beyond the 39" diameter so that I can cut fewer floor bricks to accommodate the curve of the circle?
Thanks - that is enough for now.

[slschoming]

1. If your board is level you do not need the sand for leveling. When it comes time to make mortar, I used some play sand and some all purpose sand in my homebrew. I found the all purpose sand from quikrete to be preferable.

2. A soldier course is less stable and some will say it requires buttressing. I did half soldiers as my first course and then went to half headers.

3. JRPizza should answer this one... In the meantime, here is a link to the pics from his build thread without the text: https://community.fornobravo.com/alb...h-corner-build

4. The floor will need to extend at least 4.5 inches beyond the 19.5" radius to support the dome wall on top. Any more than that will likely be a heat sink.

[JRPizza]

Sorry Dr.Lee Lee you are going to have to slog through my build - I didn't do a picture album I do have quite a few more pictures than what I posted, so if there is some point of clarification you are looking for let me know and I'll try to find something that will help. Also, cutting bricks to match the OD curvature of the dome is much easier than it might seem. At that diameter over the short distance of a brick it is a very gentle curve and I had no problem cutting it with my saw - didn't even need to do any clean up on the edges.

[Dr.Lee]

Seth - Thanks for the link to the photos without text -very helpful. I did not know this file existed. I have a question regarding half soldiers and half headers. I saw the previously Utahbeehiver posted a drawing that showed soldiers, etc. But they were not entirely clear to me. Is their description in the drawing designed to show their orientation or unique shapes? In short, can you describe what half soldiers and half headers are?

JRPizza: I am used to cutting wood. I cut brick for the first time ever this week with a 10" wet saw I just purchased. When I cut wood in a curve I had to use my band saw and go very slowly. My wet saw reminds me of my table saw which I would never cut a curve on. Can you describe cutting a modest curve with the wet saw?
Thanks to all!

[Gulf]

Here is an old post about cutting the curve.

[slschoming]

I'm not sure if I'm using proper terminology when I say "half headers" and "half soldiers." I just mean headers and soldiers using bricks thatthey have been cut in half.



To cut a "curve" in the brick just requires multiple passes in this case. Since you will be keeping the part that is inside the circle it doesn't matter what happens to the part of the brick that represents the outside of the circle..

The sketch I attached to this post shows 3 straight line cuts that would leave a curved edge on a brick.

[slschoming]

This photo shows my first two courses and what I meant in the previous post

[JRPizza]

Yep - make one cut tangent to your inscribed circle, then a few more cuts tangent to the remainder of your curve and you have a rounded brick!

[Dr.Lee]

Thanks JRPizza and Seth!