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  • #31

    Thanks for all your feedback
    These are double-chamfered. I just tried cutting one with an angle grinder but I think it killed the blade. My original plan was to use the tile cutter, or worse case break out the ConSaw which would be messy. I think my mate might have a wet saw, will soon find out. I have separate flat floor tiles (230x150x38) and because of their shape, I won't be able to place them herringbone so will have to go side by side.


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    • #32
      Just wanted to provide an update as these bricks are fairly odd shaped. They are 230 in length, 113mm in depth

      Left Back height of the brick is 113mm down to a height of 107mm on the right (will use the left side of the brick for the first layer)

      Left Front height of the brick is 76mm to 72mm on the right

      So they are more than double-chamfered

      At least the tile cutter is doing the job, I have to cut 4 sides so not a clean cut

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      Last edited by Ricey; 03-24-2022, 01:34 AM.

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      • #33
        I have another question if someone could please help?
        If my slab is 1150mm wide and my bricks are 110mm thick, what is the biggest internal diameter I could have, or what is the expected thickness of the ceramic insulation (25 x 600 x 7200 Isowool) and outer perlite wall?
        Last edited by Ricey; 03-24-2022, 01:51 AM.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Ricey View Post
          I have another question if someone could please help?
          If my slab is 1150mm wide and my bricks are 110mm thick, what is the biggest internal diameter I could have, or what is the expected thickness of the ceramic insulation (25 x 600 x 7200 Isowool) and outer perlite wall?
          Draw yourself a plan like the attached pic. Select an internal diameter then add the thickness of the outer layers to determine the outside diameter. Lets say you choose 700mm Then 700 + 2x {113+50+30+15}= 1116mm which would fit nicely on your 1150 wide slab. It is really essential that this calculation is made before planning the construction of the stand and supporting slab. But be careful because the flue gallery will require more room (you don't say how deep your slab is)

          As illustrated your bricks will require thicker mortar courses on the inside than on the outside because of the taper.
          The usual ceramic fibre blanket is two layers of 25mm (Isowoll is the older, cheaper blanket, but be aware that it is a Class2 carcinogen. That is it has produced tumours in lab rats but none reported in humans.) I use Supercool which is more expensive but has been exonerated as a carcinogen.

          A layer of 10:1 vermicrete over the blanket will restore the perfect hemispherical form, covering lumps and bumps in the blanket layers as well as providing additional insulation, provided the mix is lean of cement.

          An outer render around 12-15mm thick is sufficient if reinforced with AR fibreglass fibres.

          Do not dry cut bricks as the inhalation of the dust by you, your family or your neighbours is extremely dangerous. Get a wet saw.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by david s; 03-24-2022, 01:49 PM.
          Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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          • #35
            It has been a while since I started this pizza oven, I just have not had the time and I am in no rush to complete it.
            The weight of the bricks has caused the back of the oven to drop a few mm. I only noticed this after the recent storms so not sure if they had something to do with it. You can see where the maxiblocks have torn due to the weight of the oven. I should have stacked the blocks on the frame for a few weeks before I started building the oven.
            Not sure if I should finish the oven then patch up the frame, or if I should brace it with metal. Has anyone ever seen something like this?
            Attached Files

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            • #36
              All over our city you can see brick walls and letter boxes that are falling over. The cause is inadequate foundations. Our city is prone to extremely heavy tropical rain and occasional flooding so your problem is almost certainly caused by the heavy rain you’ve experienced. Apart from digging deeper foundations about all you can do is patch up.Once it’s settled there is usually no further movement.
              Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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              • #37
                Thanks David
                For the foundation, I dug pole holes and put reinforced steel in them before pouring the concrete, and then poured about 6 inches of concrete for the base. I am just concerned if it falls more in the future it might fall back in to the fence. I will just have to keep digging

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                • #38
                  How deep did you go Ricey? Did you go to solid / firm ground?
                  I suspect the underlying soils must be soft and therefore the oven is settling. You may be lucky, of course, and it may stop settling, or it may not!

                  What type and depth is your house foundation?
                  My 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
                  My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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