Re: castable refractory
Sounds like a plan...
Good luck and keep us posted with pictures of the pours
Mark
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Re: castable refractory
Hi Mark, no there doesn't appear to be any need for the needles. I've spoken with a few suppliers and the thickness alone should be able to hold it. There are a few others on the forum who have already fired theirs (Wild Willy for one) with no problems. I think it will still be a while before anyone fires their finished oven in our group. I would think a couple of months at least because nobody has build a base yet.Originally posted by ThisOldGarageNJ View Posthey mr. g...
Im not sure if this has been asked, Are you or will you be using stainless needles in your pour ? and Are you going to fire the first dome you poured soon for testing ?
Mark
We will put a small gas fire in the cured dome after a couple of weeks of drying though so that shouldn't be too far away.
Mr G.
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Re: castable refractory
hey mr. g...
Im not sure if this has been asked, Are you or will you be using stainless needles in your pour ? and Are you going to fire the first dome you poured soon for testing ?
Mark
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Re: castable refractory
Forgot to add the pics..... sorry. Here they are. One of the photos show the quarter dome form that I first used under the table.
Mr G.4 Photos
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Re: castable refractory
Originally posted by TheOldFox View Posti'm loving this thread.. and thinking i could take this route with my limited and zero time limit make-over..
waiting with awe to see more of this method..
regards & great work to mr_g and his friends..
Thanks mate, I've attached some photos of the form work. As I suggested earlier I've separated the entrance from the dome to make for easier casting. We've settled on a clever little idea to keep the form in place and with the correct slope. The side wall had to be cut to allow for an inward slope and rather than using timber stakes to keep it from bulging out once the concrete is poured we've used a tie down strap that goes all the way round the form. Hopefully the pictures clarify what I'm babbling on about.
Casting a full dome tomorrow. I'm optimistic that we'll do it inside two hours.
Cheers for now.
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Re: castable refractory
i'm loving this thread.. and thinking i could take this route with my limited and zero time limit make-over..
waiting with awe to see more of this method..
regards & great work to mr_g and his friends..
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Re: castable refractory
No, the sand mould is still holding up. It's more a thought experiment at this stage. If that sand mould gets damaged it should be fairly easy to repair. The fibreglass angle is good but it's a pretty expensive way to go. I'll try a few more and see how we go. I've got a big form building session going on tonight with some buddies so we should be able to get a whols dome cast on Sunday.Originally posted by MetalHead View PostDid your sand cast get destroyed? You could repair it and make a fiberglass mould over it 3 or 4 layers. Then once it is set you could leave the sand mould under the fiberglass outer shell. You couls also fiberglass in your dividers.
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Re: castable refractory
Did your sand cast get destroyed? You could repair it and make a fiberglass mould over it 3 or 4 layers. Then once it is set you could leave the sand mould under the fiberglass outer shell. You couls also fiberglass in your dividers.
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Re: castable refractory
looking forward to your pics, awesome job!
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Re: castable refractory
Davif S
A Hilti is a tool you buy once and leave to your kids,,Because You will die before your HILTIHTML Code:Hey, I used to work for HILTI back in 1970 Their products are the best.
Maybe the foam could be covered with a cheap painters tarp, plastic, etc.. Stop by an autobody shop that works in fiberglass they may have some ideas, I believe guys that build surfboards also use a foam core, so if theres a surf shop around they may have a few ideas as well..Now you're talkin' but run some tests with the foam. Depending on the resin you use, some foam will dissolve on contact.
Im even thinking, for the outside a plaster of paris cast, like a dr. would do on a broken arm, could be applied easily to the shape in strips and if you ever felt a cas it is pretty hard..
Mark
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Re: castable refractory
Hey, I used to work for HILTI back in 1970 Their products are the best.
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Re: castable refractory
Now you're talkin' but run some tests with the foam. Depending on the resin you use, some foam will dissolve on contact.
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Re: castable refractory
If you have the HILTI brand foam (down under) it is much stronger... and very dense,, you could always foam to get the shape right then fiberglass the foam and you would definitely have a permanent form....
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Re: castable refractory
The foam is not particularly strong. I would be concerned about it breaking up after the second or third casting. Then you're back to square one.
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Re: castable refractory
mr g,
you could probably do the inside mold with 4 or 5 cans,, you could use baloons to fill up some blank space and not waste too much foam,, In the states we have a product called Great Stuff,, They make a high expansion foam for sealing large spaces,, once dry it can be cut shaped etc,,,, Hope this helps,, as for the outside, I guess you could spray it on, maybe smear it down with a spackle knife or it may just take the shape well
MarkLast edited by ThisOldGarageNJ; 08-16-2010, 05:47 PM.
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