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I'm thinking of using cedar shingles on my oven roof, and have seen examples of it in the photo section of this forum. Is this a bad idea in terms of fire safety?
I have a cap with fire screen and then added another finer mesh inside that. I had some of the metal screen left over from a stucco job.
After adding the second layer of finer mesh - I've never seen another spark escape my chimney (without the extra screen it was quite a small one at that.) I think it has mostly to do with the short run on my chimney - normal fire places have a much longer run with which to burn off most of the sparks. Either way - I think adding an extra layer of mesh is a good idea.
If you are dying for cedar shakes - I'd go for those treated with fire retardant - or consider synthetic versions. The fake ones are a bit pricey but thank goodnees our oven roofs are small.
If I had gone with a sloped roof - I would have likely gone with clay tiles - For fire consideations and I love the look with the ovens I've seen.
Thanks for the advice. I still have some time to think it over, and had also thought of clay tiles or even slate. It sounds like shakes would probably work ok, if I take special precautions.
With a good spark arrester, good chimney maintenance and fire retardant there shouldn't be a problem. Cedar shakes have been used with chimneys for centuries - it's not that likely to catch fire. Still, why chance it if you don't need to? Fire retardant or longer lasting synthetics are both good ways to go.
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot
"Success isn't permanent and failure isn't fatal." -Mike Ditka
Is the fire retardant a product that's available at lowes, menards, etc? Is it simply brushed or sprayed on each shingle before it's nailed down? I'm still thinking shakes if possible. What about slate? I would definitely love slate, but have no experience working with it.
Preferably you buy them pretreated - they are pressure treated with the retardants and it lasts much longer. There are fire retardants you can apply yourself but they are more complicated to use and require a sealant to keep it on the shake.
Slate is a really good alternative. No risk of fire and it will far outlast cedar. The drawback is installation - you can do it yourself but you need to do your homework first or you'll really regret it. Still, slate is beautiful, fire impervious and will last longer than the structure so it's a good choice if you're willing to put in the work.
There is another way - concrete 'slate'. It's what it sounds like - concrete tiles formed to look like slate. They're easier to install and lighter (which matters because slate requires a beefier structure) but you'll have to be careful about the pattern or it will be obvious that it isn't real slate.
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot
"Success isn't permanent and failure isn't fatal." -Mike Ditka
Um, Mark, look at Scar's link again - one of the warnings is that borax can age wood. That might not be a good choice for something where appearance is important. I really don't know anything about it but I'd want to find out what it would do to cedar before spraying it on expensive shakes.
My vet's office has a shake roof that is evidently reaching its limit. They aren't having leaks as far as I know but the roof really doesn't look good up close. Personally, I wouldn't want to sink that kind of money into something only to have it age badly.
Okay, that, and I'm cheap...
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot
"Success isn't permanent and failure isn't fatal." -Mike Ditka
I plan on using metal studs and a metal roof. what material is recommended to put under the metal roof? do I even need it? I am used to putting down plywood but I guess that is a no-no. any ideas.
I plan on using metal studs and a metal roof. what material is recommended to put under the metal roof? do I even need it? I am used to putting down plywood but I guess that is a no-no. any ideas.
I have a standing seam metal roof and used plywood on most of the roof but tile backer cement board within a 12 inch radius of the outer surface of the flue. I have over 16 inches of Perlite over top of 3 inches of ceramic blanket. I doubt flames will leap out of that layer. I also have metal soffit and facia.
that sounds great. Did you use steel or wood rafters? I have all the 2x6 fir rafters but am cautious about using them. Never worked with steel framing but I hear it is fairly easy. what did you use? do you have any pictures?
I welded a I-beam roof made from 1.5 X 2 steel I-beams.
The beams were interlaced with chamfered 2X4s laid into the web of the I-Beams. This allowed a point to screw the ply into. The facia is a 2X6 that is screwed on to the outer i-beam from the back by drilling holes thru the web of the i-beam.
You can see the metal studs and a little of the cement backer board and the metal studs in the 4th photo.
The area around the flue is standard 2X4 steel studs to make that area fireproof.
Last photo is me doing some welding - there was a temporary roof over the final roof and you can see it in several of the photos.
I have done lots of framing, but not with metal studs. I used 2 x 3's for the walls and a heavier than normal gauge for the 2 x 4 rafters. 2 x 4 studs would have been a better choice. I completed the blocking after the images were taken. Code where I live requires hurricane clips and straps so they were installed too. I installed 1/4" hardibacker over the enclosure and then plywood roof sheathing. Code where I live requires hurricane clips and straps so they were installed too.
The four cedar 2 x 4's support the cantilevered roof rafters. I fired the stove for a couple of days to check maximum temps on the wood. They were in the 80 deg. range so I did not relpace them with metal.
Personally, I would not use a cedar roof (just my personal opinon). Im sure it would be fine though if you take proper precautions.
For me, I did not want any flammable material in my oven. For my roof, I used asphault shingles (class A fire rated). They look great and were inexpensive. I used metal framing studs and hardi-board for the roof and sides. The only flammable material on my entire oven are the wood doors beneath (see attached pic).
I originally was planning a metal roof, but the asphault shingles looked great and were cheap! Metal roofing is more expensive.
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