Re: Two bad ways to make a door
Tom,
Feel free to send photos to my e-mail address . valtone1@aol.com
Thanks again
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
Hey, Tony. Good to hear from you!Originally posted by valtone1 View PostHello,
Do you have any photos and more detailed step by step instructions along with a supply list you'd be willing to share ?
thanks Tony
Basically, I used birch plywood cut out in the shape of the main opening. Then from there I made a "plug" out of:layer 1) another piece of birch plywood the same size/shape as the vault opening, Layer 2) left over 2" Ceramic Fiber board that I got from Forno Bravo for under the hearth, the same size/shape as the vault opening, followed by Layer 3) a piece of 3/8 cement board the same size/shape as the vault opening. I used 2 1/2 inche deck screws through the cement board through the insulation directly into the plywood.
Around the plug I put a very small piece of fiberglass insulation and then around that a 4" "strap" of sheet metal all the way around the plug. So when I put the door in, the cement board faces the inside of the oven and the sheet metal is in contact with all of the brick around it. Watch your dimensions to make sure the door is snug, but not too tight. IT does loosen up after a few firings.
Here's the kicker that I found out from researching trying to make it fireproof: use a mixture of "Acryl 60" from your brick supplier (used to make mortar waterproof). it is a BASF product. Mix that with portland mortar into a very watery mixture and paint the whole door (except the sheet metal) with it. It turns out that the acrylic and the portland together soak into the wood, making it very UNcombustable. I have not had as much as a single char on my door and I put it in at 800+ degrees. From what I understand, this mixture (or some variant of it) has been used on fences in fire breaks to prevent them from burning or at least slowing down the combustion.
Sounds weird, but I was on my third door and I did not want to build another one, so I tried it with my leftover stuff (I used the acryl to make my outside brick render waterproof).
I will try to attach a picture, but I think my files are too big.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy fire and bread!
Tom
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
Hello,
Do you have any photos and more detailed step by step instructions along with a supply list you'd be willing to share ?
thanks Tony
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
After burning up my previous door I was determined not to have it happen again [at least for a while]
I cut a cardboard template of the door opening and cut out an aluminum profile with 3 wings, bottom and sides , the top I cut a strip and angle braces and pop riveted it all together . on the hot face I put in a layer of ceramic board [1/2''] followed by aluminum foil and 3 '' of vermicrete topped by one more aluminum cut out . The facing is eastern white cedar and the handles are from a hickory maul handle [don't ask] . I dried it for a week on the back window ledge of my car [it was sunny] and I love It!
I am getting great heat retention and since there are no combustables near the inner face I can smother a raging fire! Sweet!
tim3 Photos
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
Thanks - sounds like useful advice.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
Just as an FYI when dealing with brittle/crumbly materials:
Round off all corners. You do not want any 90 degree intersections anywhere.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
"Really crumbly" is right - very hard to transport them without taking big chunks out of the corners.They're really crumbly: i think you would want to totally enclose them.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
I used mine 5 or 6 times and the heat certainly made the AAC even more brittle. The main problem though was that the heat caused the thinset to release.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
I tried AAC, it was 1" thick and it cracked. I tried the same idea a second time and exactly the same thing happened. Remember that the stuff is made from portland cement which doesn't like heat.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
You could cut them in half with a carbide drywall saw, or an old carpenters saw if you had one you wanted to sacrifice. They're really crumbly: i think you would want to totally enclose them.Only thing is, my AAC blocks are 100mm (4 inch) thick, which would make for a fairly heavy door.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
I'm in need of a door - will probably try something with leftover AAC. Only thing is, my AAC blocks are 100mm (4 inch) thick, which would make for a fairly heavy door.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
Tom,
I used 19mm quilla for the timber door and a 19mm insulating panel. Don't use heavy screws to attach it to the wood or they will get really hot and char where the threads contact the wood. Better to use thin stainless steel bolts. I used 3/16" It does a pretty good job at taking the sting out of the heat to protect the timber, but it wont stand a really hot oven. You don't need a door when it's really hot anyway. My door sits against the reveal, not inside it.
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
My AAC door has held up to about 10 firings so far and it isn't showing any sign of damage yet. It is a 50mm AAC block with a 6mm plywood front. The plywood doesn't touch brick anywhere as it was part of the arch form and made smaller than the arch so I could remove it. The ply is held onto the block with high temp adhesive (but only rated to 80 deg C) and then with 30mm chipboard screws
This door was only ever intended as temporary which is probably why it has lasted so long.
Paul1 Photo
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
my idea off what may work (yet to try)
steel plate /calcium silicate board/steel plate with wooden handles
does anyone think that this would work??
or any other ideas
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Re: Two bad ways to make a door
"with some sort of insulation layer. "
The sheets of insulation that is used to line electric/gas ovens in ranges works good. Go to your local landfill and you can score some from an abandoned kitchen range.
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