Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

[sonomacast]

I am looking to make a strong wooden stand for my oven, the completed oven will weigh approximately 1300 pounds and measure just over 4 feet by 5 feet.
I'd like the stand to be in a kit form, ie one which we can assemble and disassemble as and when needed, the oven is segmented so it only makes sense to build the stand in a similar way so we can keep it semi mobile.
Any ideas on building such a stand much appreciated, Thanks all

[Vicbrickie]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

how will you lift a 1300 pound oven from its stand?

[brickie in oz]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

The question is why?

[Wiley]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

Brickie,
To me the obvious answer is because he wants or is "semi mobile". Makes perfect sense to me, that one builds their WFO so it can be moved, stored etc. should the need/want arise. Several forum members have, due to circumstances, sold /lost their homes. Why lose/give up one's WFO as well?

Vicbrickie, some people think 1300 lbs is alot of weight (and it is if it's on your foot). Otherwise moving 1300 lbs is a piece of cake if it's designed to be moved. A pallet jack is good for easily moving 5000 lbs.

And on that note, sonomacast, I would consider designing the stand around a pallet jack such that it could be constructed in "lifts", each lift being the maximum amount a pallet jack can lift. So one could lift and block and then lift and block repeating until desired height is achieved, with support cribbing like a Lincoln Log cabin. (I think my low profile pallet jack moves about a maximum of 3" each lift)

Bests,
Wiley,

[Vicbrickie]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

1300 pound is heavy in anyones language. I'm not saying he cant or shouldnt was just wondering how? A friend of mine also wants to build a moveable wfo for when he moves house in bout a year. he is planning on using a forklift.
You would need a pretty flat hard surface to move it with a pallet jack

[Wiley]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

I'm also a hobby letterpress printer, actually that's why I have a pallet jack. One of my printing presses is a Miehle Vertical. This little beast weighs in at a mere 2550 lbs according to the manual. It is easily moved with a pallet jack and for crossing soft terrain one simply uses a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood. The large 4 x 8 area spreads the load. Actually moves across soft terrain such as a lawn require two sheets: one places one after the other and once upon the second, one stops and moves the first sheet to follow and become the next surface upon which one moves. It helps to have a small piece to lay under the join (to help support the join) but actually I have made the move simply using two sheets placing the next sheet slightly under the edge of the first. There is a small bump down making the crossing to the second sheet using this method but nothing unmanageable.

Besides the Miehle I have a C&P 10 x15 Craftsman which also weighs in excess of 2500 lbs and used to own a Intertype linecaster which besides being close on equal weight was exceptionally top heavy. When I started out I used to think 1000 lbs (my little C&P 8x12) was alot of weight. I have also moved as large a press as a Kelly C (which is over 4K lbs) alone but that was out of a trailer and down ramps to a concrete pad at a friends shop. I still respect such weight but am not intimidated by it. It does get interesting when one tried getting these sort of beasts out of basements.

If one designs and builds their WFO for being able to be disassembled into component pieces and reassembled I see no problem. The problems occur when one does not make such a provision and then decides to try and move the WFO. Forklifts work well on hard surfaces but one has to deal with the weight of the forklift as well as the load when crossing soft terrain like lawns.

Bests,
Wiley

Here's a link to an old website I had for my hobby printshop:
Scow Bay Press

[Vicbrickie]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

Very ingenious I have learnt something new for today!!

[david s]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

I moved one of my ovens (250kgs just a lightweight) with three other blokes using 4x2"s Being the smallest guy I think I got the lions share of the weight and my back took 5 weeks to recover. It is not the lifting, but the moving which is difficult and dangerous. We should have had 6 blokes. Hate to think how you'd do a 36" oven with man power.

[Faith In Virginia]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

I built my oven on a temporary wooden stand. I intend on moving it next year to it's permanent location. I used left over logs from a log home I built. I have not had any problems. the nice thing is with these logs I have knobs sticking out on the corners, a perfect anchor for straps or forks when I'm ready to move it. I also left fork holes in my slab to make it easier to get off the temporary stand.

[sonomacast]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

I built the oven dome/porch into 8 segmented pieces just like the forno bravo modena 2g, infact I have one extra piece (between the chimney and keystone) My pieces all interlock just like the modena 2g as well. each piece weighs 110 pounds except the porch/flu and that probably weighs just under 200 lbs, I have yet to cast the floor but again it shall be segmented into 4 or 5 pieces

[sonomacast]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

Any ideas on a strong wooden base I can assemble and disassemble? Thank you

[asudavew]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

You could use cinder blocks. Just don't mortar them together. Build a big solid cube of them...

[brickie in oz]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

Any ideas on a strong wooden base I can assemble and disassemble? Thank you

Do a google for knockdown fittings.

[Wiley]

Re: Strong dismountable wooden stand for oven

At the risk of being droll and boring I would suggest you start with deciding how you are going to lift the WFO. Once you decide the method you will know the amount of lift is for each cycle of lifting. The you will be able to decide what you can make or use that will fit that lift.

OK, example: Say you were considering using a pallet jack like I suggested. First I would obtain the pallet jack. They can be had quite inexpensively used and come in various widths so do some research. I got a wide stance unit called the "Big Joe" made in Sweden and is capable of lifting and moving 5500 lbs. I paid $50 cash. It' what is called a low profile meaning it gets lower to the ground than most pallet jacks; it lifts just over 3" max so here (if you were in the USA instead of Dorset UK although your screen name is Sonoma, like in northern CA?) a material that is readily available in a easy multiple of 3 inches is two pieces of 2 by wood. 2x4, 2x6 etc. Yeah, they say 2 inches thick but what they sell you is really 1 1/2 inches thick. Long story in that but just deal with it. So if one laps the joins at the corners one can create a strong structure. So if you wanted the base 36 inches off the ground (substrate whatever you are sitting the WFO on) you would have 12 lifts of three inches. BFD it would take maybe an hour to jack and position the pieces all of which would have been cut and assembled (to be sure they fit before hand). It would take some creative thinking 'cause you will lift and place a layer then set the unit down on that layer, then lower the forks and reposition the cross pieces doing the lifting and repeat. The actual lifting would be done by the pallet jack lifting a couple of pieces of channel or box tube that fit into notches in each two board lift. Each time you lift you can place a new support layer. You set it down on that support layer lower the forks move the cross members (lifting pieces, channel iron, box tube measuring 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches) to the notches in that just set layer jack it up set a new layer and repeat.

Ah, I can see I lost you at the notches....the notches are gaps in the bottom board of the two board layer. The top board is continuous the bottom board is not, but rather has two spaces one for each of the two cross members ( 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inch channel etc etc) which sit crosswise upon the forks of the pallet jack. Pallet forks fit into what will become wood storage... the notches are in each layer on boths sides of the stand and the back is a continuous layer (no notches) Clear now?

Slow maybe, but fast isn't everything and hurry simply gets you more time to wonder what went wrong. Each layer is separate and easy prefabricated, easily transported by single person carry. When finally assembled place a piece of plywood on the side and screw the layers together.

No need for high end wood so purchase grade 3 economy grade lumber. Outer layer of plywood gets a coat of paint and then a piece of old bedsheet stretched over it while wet. When dry a coat of glue and some sand rubbed on it and then paint and everyone thinks it's stucco. Time to move simply tear off the sheet (it'll separate at the paint layer) and unscrew the plywood and then reverse the whole process except you lift then remove a support layer then lower, then reposition and lift and remove etc etc.

Hope this helps,
Wiley